Home / Articles / How Do I Calculate Feet of Head for My Pool?

How Do I Calculate Feet of Head for My Pool?

How to calculate head for pool pump?

OK, riddle me this, you’re standing in a pool store’s showroom and you’re in awe of all the shiny new pumps. You finally make your decision on the model you want and have a hunch it will work well in your 20 000-gallon pool, but the salesperson drops a bomb on your plans by asking the simple question, “What is your feet of head?” Wait a minute, what? My head is about 10 inches. but I’ve never actually measured my own skull…

Wrong head.

Total Dynamic Head (TDH) refers to the total equivalent height that a fluid will be pumped by taking into consideration any friction losses in the pipe. Essentially “dynamic head” is the measurement of resistance working against your pool pump as it pulls water from your basin and pushes it back to the pool. The total sum of the pipes’ lengths, rise in elevation and addition of 45-degree /90-degree turns will affect the feet of head number. All the aforementioned plumbing quirks add up to more friction the water accrues as it travels. The more friction, the harder the pump must work to push the water through the pipe, which demands that you go to a higher HP or use a larger pipe. If you need to install a new pump or replace your filter, you need to calculate the system’s feet of head to determine the best fit. A pump’s flow rate is dependent on the feet of head.

If you need to install a new pump or replace your filter, you need to calculate the system’s feet of head to determine the best fit. A pump’s flow rate is dependent on the feet of head of your plumbing system, and that measurement is featured in every pump curve chart. If you want to turn over your 20 000 gallons once in 5 hours, you will need to average at least 67 gallons per minute (GPM). We will use that GPM to calculate our pool’s feet of head.

Measure the Lengths of All the Pipes

Yes, I mean all. Measure the pipes’ lengths that span from your main drains, skimmers and any other suction ports that draw water from your pool. While measuring lengths, also note the depth of the pipe as well as the number of turns and the type (45-degree or 90-degree.) The type of turns will affect the friction loss as we total up at the end. Measure the lengths of the pressure side pipes in the same manner, noting the degree of turns and any valves you can see. The chart shows the feet of head per 100 feet of pipe according to the pipe diameter of Schedule 40 PVC in congruence with the flow rate of your pump. So, let us estimate you have 200 feet of 2” PVC with a flow rate of 70 GPM, your feet of head would be 15.2.

GPM1-1/2″ PVC2″ PVC
409.432.75
5014.34.16
60205.84
7028.67.76
8036.79.94

On top of that 15.2 feet of heads, you can add the rise in elevation from the pool’s surface to the pump. For example, if the pool’s pump is 3’ above your pool’s surface, add 3’  feet to 15.2.

Pipe section feet of head: 18.2

Because you know the gallons of your pool and you know that you want to turn over your water twice, you can calculate the desired rate of flow to turn it over in a period of 3-5 hours.

Add up the Dips, Turns, and Twists

We must now add in the effect of  all the valves, turns and couplings in  your plumbing line. Each of those plumbing add-ons tack on a value of feet of head to your plumbing line. The value will vary according to the flow rate you put in. I used 70 GPM as our flow rate in my calculations.

The table below provides the equivalent feet of straight pipe for representative connectors for 1 ½’ and 2’  at 70 GPM. The total of these values will have to be converted to feet of head as we will show in the example:

Description1-1/2″ PVC2″ PVC
45-Degree Elbow2.43.1
90-Degree Elbow7.68.7
Check Valve1.72.2
3-Way Diverter Valve2.52.3
2-Way Diverter Valve1.7
Tee6.27.5
Coupling1.52
CountDescription
5 x 8.7 = 43.5’90-Degree Elbows
4 x 2.0 = 8.0’Couplings
3 x 2.2 = 6.6’Check Valves
1 x 2.3 = 2.3’3-Way Diverter Valve
60.4 / 100 x 7.76 = 4.69 Total of 4.69 added feet of head for connectors.

Total of 60.4 added  equivalent feet of straight pipe.

To convert this value to feet of head, multiply 60.4 ‘ by the same number used in the length of pipe calculation above for 70 GPM and 2’ PVC diameter pipe, 7.76 per 100’ of pipe.

60.4 / 100 x 7.76 = 4.69

Total of 4.69 added feet of head for connectors.

Don’t Forget Your Filter, Valve or Heaters

Filters can be a real drag on water as it rushes through your plumbing. So, we must account for that extra resistance. Pentair has a thorough Head Loss Chart that lists the ratings for their products. You may not have a Pentair, but the ratings should give you an idea of where your similar sized filter will fall on the chart. For your specific model’s head loss rating, check your owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. Click the chart for an expanded view.

As for heaters, the head loss varies depending on flow rate and model. Here is a graph of Hayward listed flow rates to give you an idea, what the ranges may be. To be on the safe side I would add 15 feet of head to the count for a preliminary calculation, but for an actual number you will need to contact the manufacturer for calculations.

GPMFeet of Head
405.12
506.16
607.23
707.5
807.8
908.84
1009.86

The final total:

Pipe lengths and rise = 18.2
Valves and turns = 4.7
Cartridge filter 70 sq. ft. = 7.5
Heater = 7.5

Total feet of head = 37.9

author avatar
Matthew Simmons Technical Writer & Pool Product Expert
Swimming pool expert at InyoPools and host of Poolside Chat, brings over a decade of experience in the pool industry.

Related Videos

77 responses to “How Do I Calculate Feet of Head for My Pool?”

  1. MBS Avatar

    I purchased a home with an in-ground pool and single speed pump and I don’t know how it’s plumbed. I’m switching to a variable speed pump and want to know the GPM at different speeds so I can program the system to turn the water over about 1.5 time a day.

    I plan to backwash the pool and see how long it takes to fill a 5 gal bucket. I have about 60′ of 2″ pipe sloped slightly uphill which should simulate the three return lines to the pool.

    I think the most accurate way to measure gpm is to to attach a hose on each of the three return lines because, I believe, that is true gpm. The water is a bit cold now though.

    Thoughts?

  2.  Avatar

    And what happens is I have no idea about where the pipes are or how long they are second owner of the house. I just want I pump that works wtf. To much information. 🤬🙃🤬

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you have a pool pump in place and you want to figure out run times, you can skip this method by using trial runs for run times, and RPM setting(dual and variable speed motors only.) If you are replacing a pump, then you may try finding a replacement with a similar pump curve. For example, If you have a Pentair SuperFlo, you may replace it with the same horsepower SuperFlo, or a Hayward Super Pump, or Pureline Prime.

  3.  Avatar

    My head now spins…

  4. Mike Avatar

    So I tried to follow all the detailed steps (thank you!),
    Then I got to the comments and the engineers blew the whole thing up! Without the great step by step explanations.
    I’ve got 80 Ft 2″ PVC x 7.76/100 = 6.2 Head Feet?
    I’ve got 143 Ft 1.5″ PVC x 28.6/100 = 40.9 Head Feet?
    Then the 16 2″ 90 deg elbows = 16 x 8.7/100 = 1.4 Feet? Do I need to convert this to Head Feet? How?
    Would be nice if we had a link for the STA-RITE CHART – Google Sta-Rite only gets a sales site.
    Maybe someone can help?
    Thanks!!!

  5. Bruce Avatar

    I have a Paramount in floor cleaning system. In the manual it states:

    “The pump must be a high head pump capable of 60 GPM at 70 ft. of head and the filter should be a minimum of a 4.9 sand filter with a two inch valve, 36 sq. ft. DE filter with a two inch valve, or a 200 sq. ft. cartage filter. This will be sufficient to give the required 50 GPM flow to the cleaning system and allow 10 GPM for the possible fixed nozzle. Any additional water needed for spa spill ways, water falls or other water features must be factored in to both pump and filter sizing.”

    The water valve has two fixed nozzles that flow all the time
    and steps between:
    1. Two rotating Nozzels.
    2. Two rotating Nozzels.
    3. Two rotating Nozzels.
    4. Four rotating Nozzels.
    5. Three eyelet jets.

    I am estimating the pipe lengths and elbows from water valve to Nozzles..
    With this configuration what do I use for the feet of head calculation for nozzles and the water valve?
    Do I only use the highest feet of head and the fixed nozzle lines in the calculation?
    Can I install a Variable Speed pump to run the cleaning system for a minimum amount of time and then use a lower speed to cycle the water?

  6. Shane Avatar

    I want to thank you for the information in the calculating of the TDH. I was wondering if you have charts for pipes and fitting going up 6″ PVC? As we have some piping of 3″, 4″ and 6″ schedule 40 pvc. I appreciate any help on this you may have.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Those would be more for serious commercial application with a few more variables and higher flow rates involved. I did have a PDF from Sta-Rite that listed a lot of TDH values for different elements of plumbing but it only went up to 2-inch. If you’re building a pool like that, there should be an engineer or contractor that can give you an idea of what the TDH will be. Or you can go by the current model of your pool pump.

  7.  Avatar

    Rigging up a makeshift TDH meter is simple in principle – its called a manometer. Its a water, part-filled U-tube and you could make one on a plank of wood with thin plastic tube. When vertical you will need about half full of water and read off the difference in height directly in feet. You connect it accross the pump. It would be pretty interesting for you to try this to validate the calculations. Thing is with 100 feet of 5 or 10mm tubing and a tall board or convenient wall you could cheaply measure this.

    1. A Tired Old Mechanical Engineer Avatar

      Preposterous. Measuring a 50 ft TDH across a pump would require a 50 ft. plus tall manometer. Much easier to connect a simple Bourdon tube gage at two points, suction and discharge, measure each reading, and multiply by 2.31 to get TDH. If the lines are the same size the difference in dynamic head will cancel out. It’s pretty easy to let perfect be the enemy of good. Measuring with a gauge is easily within 10%, more than enough accuracy for swimming pool pump hydraulics.

  8. Debra Avatar

    There is a meter on the market now that measures TDH…can you just use it to get a fairly accurate reading? Pros and cons please.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I have not seen a TDH meter. Do you have a link to it? That would make the whole process simpler, and I could add it to the article.

      The only downside I could foresee is the cost. Take into consideration, that a homeowner would only be using this once. A meter that costs $50 may be manageable, but one that costs $200 would likely not be worth it.

  9. Sandy Wolfe Avatar

    I’m a history teacher. Would prefer to avoid the math. Here’s my situation. My in ground pool is 16 x 32′ and averages 5′ deep. My husband refuses to pay for heater. Ive decided to use 1″ black plastic pipe, snake it horizantally back and forth along my wooden pool fence. If I run it 50 ‘ then loop it on a hook and run it back to beginning point, then another loop and so on. My pool is in central Florida. Temps in spring and fall average 65*. I want to raise temp to 85*. So, how much pipe do I need to raise temp 20*?. Should l have my pool guy put in a bigger pump or add a second one?
    Thanks so much,
    Sandy

    Y for a heater

    1. Mike the Mechanical Engineer. Avatar

      I agree with you. Thank you, Matthew!

      All these questions, and differing answers, and replies…
      Just go to show that nothing about this – is really “simple”.
      It is what I call a “non-trivial” task.

      It is going to take some TIME AND EFFORT – to figure out each unique pool!
      Not that it can’t be done by a lay-person… Most people probably could do it, given enough effort.
      But even for me, as an engineer – I’m going to have to sit down and run the numbers! Which is going to take time. This is not a 5 minute, back of the napkin exercise.

      But what Matthew has done, is provide a very excellent start.
      With that start, and some help from the Internet… One can figure it all out.

    2. Mike the Mechanical Engineer. Avatar

      Honestly, your proposed plan, would not work.
      (Good creativity, however it just won’t work – economically)

      Probably, the best idea, is a rooftop solar system AND an inexpensive pool cover.
      This will EXTEND your summer swimming season by several months or more.

      Yes, basically a just a bunch of black pipes – except it adds up to thousands of feet, and a roof gets sun all day long, while a fence only gets sun, less than half the day.

      Living in central Fl myself, once winter comes and temps fall below 65, you will not be able to keep the pool at 85F, not with solar. Although, it will also help speed up the heating of the pool in the spring, so “summer”can start early.

      Sorry, there is no “easy” or “almost free” answer on how to heat your pool.

      Besides the expense of the roof solar system, you also have to pay for extra electricity to pump the water, for 10-12 hr/day. Again, no free rides.

      The good news, is the price of these systems have really fallen, so it might not cost as much as you think.

  10.  Avatar

    Seems like more people trying to prove you wrong than saying “thank you” for the info. “It’s better to be kind, than to be right.” Thank you, Matthew!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *