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Raypak Heater Fault Code Guide

No one likes to get an error code on any piece of technology, especially on a Raypak heater. It means something is wrong and needs to be addressed soon. The panic really doesn’t set in until you realize error code BD1 means absolutely nothing to you. Error codes are both curses and blessings. Although an error message is never really a good thing, at least it’s an indication of what the problem is. Just imagine how much easier it would be to diagnose diseases if humans came with error codes.) Usually, depending upon the manufacturer, the manufacturer will include a manual detailing what may have triggered the error message and possible solutions to fix the issue. All error code guides are not made equal.

Still, even if the error codes were listed in the manual, what are the odds you know where that manual is? Unless you’re like my mom who keeps all her paperwork in a filing cabinet, the manual was probably tossed a week after your product was working properly. Heaters, though, can be rather tricky without the manual. I love the saying, “hindsight is 20/20,” because it’s so true. How many times did you wish you kept something after you have convinced yourself that you didn’t need it and threw it away? Or maybe it’s just me.

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Our goal with this blog is to aid you in identifying and defining the error code on your Raypak heater and to provide possible solutions, as per the manufacturer. If we don’t have a solution or do not address your particular issue, it’s always best to contact Raypak directly.

The majority of Raypak heaters will have a digital readout. The digital readout helps pool owners read error codes on the actual heater. The models with digital thermostats are programmed to display a variety of status and diagnostic messages, depending on the operating conditions.

They are also equipped with onboard diagnostic controls. If there is a safety fault, a fault code will be displayed along with a service indication. (see pic on right) The word “SERVICE” will flash on and off if the PC board detects a known issue. The fault code is displayed in 3 big letters in the lower left of the display.

Below is a chart we created to help pool owners identify the meaning of Raypak’s fault code. It also includes possible solutions to fix the issue. Keep in mind, this is not a substitute for the installation and operation manual. Should you need further advice or technical information, please give Raypak a call at 805-278-5300.

Fault Code DisplayDefinitionPossible Solutions
BD1Board failure1. If this code appears and stays on, turn off power to board at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power.
2. If code reappears, replace board as the main processor failed to start.
EEPIndicates that memory failed to start on main processor.1. Turn off power at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power.
2. If code reappears, replace board as memory has failed.
FANIndicates the Pilot was lost, or the air pressure switch is not closed when required. 1. Check for correct incoming power at fan relay- 120V or 240V and at fan motor.
2. If pilot is confirmed, check for 24V minimum out of fan relay to pressure switch.
3. If switch does not make when fan is operating, verify the tuning between fan housing and switch is connected and is not kinked.
4. Soft lock out after 3 attempts- automatically resets after 5 minutes.
FFLIndicates a false flame signal. 1. Check to see if pilot is staying lit after CFH is satisfied. If pilot stays lit, the pilot valve in the gas valve is hanging open. Replace gas valve.
2. If gas valve is working properly, problem lies with the pilot system or board. Turn power off at toggle switch.
3. Unplug ignition wire from board and pilot and remove green ground wire from burning tray. Clean and reconnect ground wire.
4. Turn power on. If no spark at ignition module, turn power off and replace the PC board.
4. If you saw a spark at Ignition Module, turn off the power and reconnect wires.
6. Turn power on and unit should fire.
GVCNo power detected at PV or MV when commanded.1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board.
2. Power ON and watch for spark at module.
3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board.
4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire.
5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect.
7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve.
GVOPower found at either PV or MV at the incorrect time.1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board.
2. Power ON and watch for spark at module.
3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board.
4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire.
5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect.
7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve.
8. Low power to transformer can cause a GVO fault.
HL1The high-limit has exceeded 135F1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically.
2. Check for blockage in tubes.
3. Check for low water flow.
4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary
5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary
HL2The high-limit has exceeded 135F1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically.
2. Check for blockage in tubes.
3. Check for low water flow.
4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary
5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary
IGNIgnition failure1. If the unit fails to hold a flame after 3 attempts, it will go into a hard lockout. Interrupt the power supply to clear the lockout and check for air in the gas line or not enough gas pressure.
2. IGN only appears after pilot has proved and main valve has been powered.
ILOIgnition lockout (Propane units only)1. The heater has performed too many attempts to ignite the main burner and will take a short break.
2. Inspect pilot assembly.
3. If pilot assembly is OK, then the culprit may be your PC board.
PRSLow water pressure1. Check water levels at skimmer face. (should be middle of skimmer face)
2. Ensure pump is running.
3. Check filter pressure. Backwash if necessary.
4. Check heater location- if more than 5 ft above or below water level- adjust pressure switch.
ROLThermal fuse tripped inside heater due to excessive heat or flame roll-out detected.1. Possible downdraft of burner flame. If sensor has red reset button, press button & determine cause.
2. Does your unit need a high wind stack?
3. Check wiring for burns- especially the ground wire and wires at gas valve.
4. Replace wires if necessary.
SNSTemperature sensor is out of acceptable range.1. Water temperature is below 36F or above 110F
2. If the two thermistors are more than 2 degrees apart, the SNS code will appear.
3. Loose or corroded connection at P1.
4. If the sensor is not mounted all the way into the JACO fitting on the header, it may give a false reading.

Raypak Heater Parts

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  • Heat Exchangers, Thermostat
  • Control Panels & More…

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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310 responses to “Raypak Heater Fault Code Guide”

  1. EM Lentz Avatar

    Question: Raypak Digital 406A that was on propane. But, my home underwent a natural gas conversion and I had them run a dedicated gas line which is now plumbed into the heater. I obtained Raypak’s propane-to-natural gas conversion kit per the manual which essentially swaps out the gas value regulator, burner orifices, and pilot orifice. However, since my Raypak was originally sold (to my home’s prior owner) as a propane heater, the control board has the broken tab for propane heaters. Will I need to get a new control board because that tab was broken, or if the conversion kit is installed and everything is ready for start-up and adjustments made, will I have a problem? Will the unit fault or not fire due to the control board with the broken off tab?

    1. EM Lentz Avatar

      And a quick follow up to my prior note: If I did obtain a Raypak conversion kit for propane to natural gas, and do need a new control board that is intact without a broken tab, why on earth would Raypak’s “conversion kit” not discuss or mention the need for a new control board?

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Raypak does not offer a conversion kit for Digital Electronic Ignition models 200,000btu or larger. The conversion kit is only applicable to millivolt (standing pilot) models. That being said, it’s likely that you will need a new gas valve, but you don’t necessarily have to change the PC Board. The 90-second ignition lockout, required by NFG for Propane appliances, shouldn’t have much of an impact on the operation of the heater. It may be a slight nuisance upon spring startup. It usually is not worth replacing the PC Board.

  2. Jr Espada Avatar

    I have an electrical Raypak pool heater. I keep getting a “dsd” or “d5d” code. What could that be?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What model heater do you have? I’m not familiar with that code.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      According to the manual for a Raypak heat pump, the issue is, dSd – The suction line temperature sensor is open or may be defective. You didn’t specify the actual model of your unit, so I am going with the first one I found,

  3. Glenn Avatar

    Turned on my heater and was working normally. At sometime during the long day of enjoying, I went to turn off the heater and noticed a CFH code. Then after I turned the power off and turned back on, after the CFH code a CLK code comes up. Help!?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The CLK code means that the heater is off on the fireman’s switch. Is there a fireman’s switch interlocking your time clock with the heater? A fireman’s switch shuts the heater down twenty minutes before the pump shuts off. If you don’t have a fireman’s switch, check the red loop of wire, on the safety circuit connector on the PC board, for any damage or loosened connection.

  4. Mark c Avatar

    When I switch on my heater is shows RV 1 then the temp .When i press the control buttons nothing happens at all???

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is the model number of your heater?

  5. Wpolo coach Avatar

    Hi – I have a 4 yr old Raypak 84 Prol model 409. The heater display says “Vent temp limit”. I reset the vent temp limit switch, checked for exhaust vent blockages (none), and increased the water flow (variable speed pump). Heater worked, then stopped within 2 hrs, displaying same message. Reset the switch again, and heater seems to work for now. What’s going on? Bad sensor? Bad switch? Bad karma?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      It’s likely that the heat exchanger is sooted and needs to be pulled out and cleaned.

  6. Tsharp Avatar

    i have a Raypak P-R207A-EN-C that is giving a “PV output fault”. My manual and this list doesnt cover that. Is that fault a voltage issue? Are there any fuses anywhere (i dont see any)? Any help or info is greatly appreciated!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      PV Output Fault typically means that either the pilot valve relay or the main valve relay on the PC board failed to open or close. Replace PC Board.

  7. Jack Avatar

    Hi! First time doing this..so here we go. I have an old Raypak 2100 pool heater – Model CR – 185 – EN. Used it extensively last summer, just tried to fire it up this year with no luck. Replaced the transformer last year, so it’s new.

    I’m getting a clicking sound when I try to fire it up, so I think the electronic ignition seems to be working. No flame. The only note is that it is looking for heat (no fancy codes). I don’t smell any gas no matter how long I let it go. Your thoughts are appreciated.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the heater is sparking, but the pilot doesn’t light, first make sure that the knob on the gas valve is turned to on, make sure the external gas shut off is set to on, and manually bleed the air from the gas line by cracking the union until you smell gas. Second, when the heater is sparking, check for 24VAC at the pilot valve terminal on the gas valve (red/black wire). If power exists at the pilot valve, loosen the pilot tube from the gas valve and see if gas comes out. If no gas, then the valve itself could be bad. If no power at the pilot valve, check for 24VAC coming from the ignition control (other end of the red and black wire). If the ignition control is sending spark, but no voltage, then it could be a faulty ignition control box.

      If the pilot does light, but no main burner. First, check for 24VAC at the main valve terminal (violet/black). If the power at the main valve, but no main burner, then lightly tap the side of the gas valve. It could be stuck closed. Even if it pops open after tapping, it should be replaced. If it does not pop open, replace gas valve. If no power at main valve terminal, check for power out of the ignition control (other end of the violet/black wire). If power is coming out of ignition control, check violet and black section of wire for cuts, missing insulation, loose spade connections, etc. If no power out of ignition control, then check the green ground wire connection at the gas valve. If all ground connections are stable, then it could be a bad ignition control; but, also check the condition of the pilot itself. If it appears dirty or corroded- then remove and clean the pilot. Or, if very rusty, replace the pilot. Also, WITH THE POWER TURNED OFF, check condition of ribbon burners, by taking a piece of solid wire and running it in and out the length of all of the burners. There could be spider sacs or cobwebs interfering with the flow of gas.

  8. Jon Avatar

    Recently had my transformer replaced on my Raypak 407a heater. It then fired up and started heating. Since then, I’ve had a few issues:

    1) It would shut off at random increments and the last error codes have been FAN and ROL. Not sure why it wouldn’t stay running…but it’s not a newer model that has the auto-shut off after 3 failed attempts)
    2) Now, when I turn power on, it goes through its cycle but stays on SPK. I can hear it trying to spark but it never fires up. Error code now shows ROL for last several codes. When I try to press the red reset button on the rollout switch (or what I think is the rollout switch) I hear a big click and it tries to spark again. If I hold down the red reset button, the screen says ROL and SERVICE in the upper right corner.

    Any ideas??

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      In the article, the FAN code is listed, states why it is happening, and how to fix it, same with the ROL. Have you tried any of the things mentioned in the “Possible Solutions” column?

  9. Will Avatar

    I have a Raypack R406A heater that I inherited when I bought my home. It has worked flawlessly until recently. Beginning some time ago, it will turn on, heat the spa to around 98F then shut down. It will not re-ignite and stay on “SPK” until the power is cycled.

    Is this the high limit switch? It doesn’t show any error codes, but from my research, it could be this. If so, can you tell me what part number I need and provide guidance on how to replace it?

    Thanks in advance!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you are getting SPK, and can hear the spark, then the problem is not with the high limit or any of the other safety controls. When you are seeing SPK, check to see if the pilot is lighting. If the pilot is lit, it should begin a sequence that would signal the PC board to open the main gas valve and fire the burners. Said signal is a DC signal and could be interrupted by a loose or disconnected ground wire, chewed or bare wire leading from the gas valve up to the PC board, or a loose connection at the PC board. Also, inspect the condition of the pilot itself. Excessive corrosion on the pilot could also interfere with the proving signal. If the pilot is not lit by the spark, then turn off the gas and clean the pilot and pilot tube.

      1. Will Avatar

        Thanks for the reply. I’ll take a look at the pilot and the wiring. I did a little more testing. I can get it to light in pool mode, but it refuses to in spa mode. Installed new filters and the flow pressure is fine.

      2. Will Avatar

        Ended up buying the current model from Inyo Pools and replaced it myself. Old unit was completely corroded. Figure it lasted 12 years, so another 12 would be amazing.

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          Sorry, you couldn’t salvage the old unit; but thanks for getting the new one from us.

          Raypaks are pretty darn solid, you should get a good life out of it.

  10. Steve Avatar

    O have a raypak 266a. I am looking at mine and it looks like there are 2 high limit sensors, but the manual shows 1? Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      After reviewing a couple of Raypak diagrams, the 266A residential atmospheric heaters uses two of the Hi-Limit 135 Degree Surface Mount (006725f). The 14A picture diagram, shows the placement of the two Hi-Limit sensors as Key 6 on the headers.

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