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Raypak Heater Fault Code Guide

No one likes to get an error code on any piece of technology, especially on a Raypak heater. It means something is wrong and needs to be addressed soon. The panic really doesn’t set in until you realize error code BD1 means absolutely nothing to you. Error codes are both curses and blessings. Although an error message is never really a good thing, at least it’s an indication of what the problem is. Just imagine how much easier it would be to diagnose diseases if humans came with error codes.) Usually, depending upon the manufacturer, the manufacturer will include a manual detailing what may have triggered the error message and possible solutions to fix the issue. All error code guides are not made equal.

Still, even if the error codes were listed in the manual, what are the odds you know where that manual is? Unless you’re like my mom who keeps all her paperwork in a filing cabinet, the manual was probably tossed a week after your product was working properly. Heaters, though, can be rather tricky without the manual. I love the saying, “hindsight is 20/20,” because it’s so true. How many times did you wish you kept something after you have convinced yourself that you didn’t need it and threw it away? Or maybe it’s just me.

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Our goal with this blog is to aid you in identifying and defining the error code on your Raypak heater and to provide possible solutions, as per the manufacturer. If we don’t have a solution or do not address your particular issue, it’s always best to contact Raypak directly.

The majority of Raypak heaters will have a digital readout. The digital readout helps pool owners read error codes on the actual heater. The models with digital thermostats are programmed to display a variety of status and diagnostic messages, depending on the operating conditions.

They are also equipped with onboard diagnostic controls. If there is a safety fault, a fault code will be displayed along with a service indication. (see pic on right) The word “SERVICE” will flash on and off if the PC board detects a known issue. The fault code is displayed in 3 big letters in the lower left of the display.

Below is a chart we created to help pool owners identify the meaning of Raypak’s fault code. It also includes possible solutions to fix the issue. Keep in mind, this is not a substitute for the installation and operation manual. Should you need further advice or technical information, please give Raypak a call at 805-278-5300.

Fault Code DisplayDefinitionPossible Solutions
BD1Board failure1. If this code appears and stays on, turn off power to board at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power.
2. If code reappears, replace board as the main processor failed to start.
EEPIndicates that memory failed to start on main processor.1. Turn off power at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power.
2. If code reappears, replace board as memory has failed.
FANIndicates the Pilot was lost, or the air pressure switch is not closed when required. 1. Check for correct incoming power at fan relay- 120V or 240V and at fan motor.
2. If pilot is confirmed, check for 24V minimum out of fan relay to pressure switch.
3. If switch does not make when fan is operating, verify the tuning between fan housing and switch is connected and is not kinked.
4. Soft lock out after 3 attempts- automatically resets after 5 minutes.
FFLIndicates a false flame signal. 1. Check to see if pilot is staying lit after CFH is satisfied. If pilot stays lit, the pilot valve in the gas valve is hanging open. Replace gas valve.
2. If gas valve is working properly, problem lies with the pilot system or board. Turn power off at toggle switch.
3. Unplug ignition wire from board and pilot and remove green ground wire from burning tray. Clean and reconnect ground wire.
4. Turn power on. If no spark at ignition module, turn power off and replace the PC board.
4. If you saw a spark at Ignition Module, turn off the power and reconnect wires.
6. Turn power on and unit should fire.
GVCNo power detected at PV or MV when commanded.1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board.
2. Power ON and watch for spark at module.
3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board.
4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire.
5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect.
7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve.
GVOPower found at either PV or MV at the incorrect time.1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board.
2. Power ON and watch for spark at module.
3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board.
4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire.
5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect.
7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve.
8. Low power to transformer can cause a GVO fault.
HL1The high-limit has exceeded 135F1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically.
2. Check for blockage in tubes.
3. Check for low water flow.
4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary
5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary
HL2The high-limit has exceeded 135F1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically.
2. Check for blockage in tubes.
3. Check for low water flow.
4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary
5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary
IGNIgnition failure1. If the unit fails to hold a flame after 3 attempts, it will go into a hard lockout. Interrupt the power supply to clear the lockout and check for air in the gas line or not enough gas pressure.
2. IGN only appears after pilot has proved and main valve has been powered.
ILOIgnition lockout (Propane units only)1. The heater has performed too many attempts to ignite the main burner and will take a short break.
2. Inspect pilot assembly.
3. If pilot assembly is OK, then the culprit may be your PC board.
PRSLow water pressure1. Check water levels at skimmer face. (should be middle of skimmer face)
2. Ensure pump is running.
3. Check filter pressure. Backwash if necessary.
4. Check heater location- if more than 5 ft above or below water level- adjust pressure switch.
ROLThermal fuse tripped inside heater due to excessive heat or flame roll-out detected.1. Possible downdraft of burner flame. If sensor has red reset button, press button & determine cause.
2. Does your unit need a high wind stack?
3. Check wiring for burns- especially the ground wire and wires at gas valve.
4. Replace wires if necessary.
SNSTemperature sensor is out of acceptable range.1. Water temperature is below 36F or above 110F
2. If the two thermistors are more than 2 degrees apart, the SNS code will appear.
3. Loose or corroded connection at P1.
4. If the sensor is not mounted all the way into the JACO fitting on the header, it may give a false reading.

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author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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310 responses to “Raypak Heater Fault Code Guide”

  1. Mick Davis Avatar

    Hi Matthew
    i have just purchased a new raypak M206A Pool heater and i shipped it to Thailand.
    Can you tell me what the input gas normal operating pressure should be.
    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Did the manual ship with the unit? Is it Propane or Natural Gas?

  2. jordan Avatar

    i have a raypak tankless and when i run water it flashes 11 and beeps when my temp should be 120 any ideas whats wrong here?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Is this Raypak unit you are working on a pool heater or a tankless water heater? I can help you with the pool heater, but I would need to know the model number of the pool heater.

      If you are referencing a house water heater, you would have to contact Raypak or a boiler technician company.

  3. Tim Avatar

    I fogot to add – I”ve backwashed it, pressure is good. Haven’t changed anything to the hardware.

  4. Tim Avatar

    Hi
    I”ve got a RP2100, it’s worked fine for about 10 years, in the last week it will only heat up to about 85 deg. I’ve got the temp set for 102. It turns on fine SPK comes on and ignites runs with no error codes after about 15 minutes it will show SPK on display and reignite and run for about 10 more minutes then it repeats that and only gets to about 80some degrees. where should I look for the problem, no error codes.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      One of our close Raypak techs said to check for any loose wires/crimps in the wire harness. Also, check the wired going into the connector that plugs into the PC Board. Sounds as if it could be momentarily losing contact.

  5. John Avatar

    Rheem natural gas pool heater model P-M267AEN-C throwing code PR5 and message “CLEAN FILTER STRAINER” with “Service” in smaller letters on top right hand side of display. According to your code reference it may be a clogged pool filter needing backwash. Are there any filters inside the heater I also need to pay attention to?

    Thank you.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The heater does not have filters that need cleaning. The PRS code is referring to low water pressure. If your pump strainer is clogged or your filter media is dirty, the water flow could lower below the heater’s minimum water requirement. If you have a variable speed pump, sometimes this will flash if your pump drops to lower RPMs.

  6. Mike Avatar

    Hi… At my job, we have a model P2005-A and the error code is DELTA T. What does this mean? I’ve looked through all the recent messages and haven’t found anything similar. Can you help please?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      That model looks to be a commercial boiler and not a pool heater we are referring to in the article. Your best bet would be to contact Raypak directly.

      A simple search in google brought up an owner’s manual with all the codes for me. A little search goes a long way.

      “Delta T – Captures the highest Delta T Temperature recorded. Press UP & DOWN buttons for 3 sec to clear this entry”

  7. MD Avatar

    Hi,
    I have a Raypak R406A that I have inherited when I bought this house. Since I moved in, it has displayed HL2 after running for a little while (hour or two). If I bump it up only a couple of degrees at a time, it will take longer to display HL2 but it will inevitably get there every time I use the heater. The hottest I have seen the temperature get befire displaying HL2 is about 92 degrees but I have triggered the HL2 in the 80s as well.

    I already replaced the internal bypass kit which was toast, the temperature sensor which was still working but the thermowell was in bad shape, and the 2nd limit switch.

    Ran an inspection camera down the tubes and they do not appear to be bad condition or have much buildup at all.

    I took apart all of the jandy valves and they are all clear from obstructions.

    I am out of ideas here. Please help.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Hello MD – I sent your question to a Raypak tech that works with Inyo, and he provided the following answer:

      HL1 or HL2 is an indication that the heater shut off via one of the auto-reset 135-degree high limit switches in the safety circuit. These redundant switches monitor the temperature of the water in the inlet/outlet header.

      When the water exceeds 135 degrees, one of the high limits will shut the heater down and either HL1 or HL2 will appear on the display. Assuming that the pump is running, the water inside the header will cool down and the high limits will reset- allowing the heater to fire up again- until the point where the water in the header exceeds 135 degrees and the process will repeat. This is typically referred to as “cycling on the limits”.

      This is most often caused by insufficient water flow velocity through the tubes of the heat exchanger. Causes can include: restriction in the tubes (scale buildup), corroded bypass, eroded bypass spring, corroded Unitherm Governor, restriction in water flow to the heater, or back pressure after the heater.

      If the HL2, in this case, is resetting and allowing the heater to fire after cooldown, then the switch is fine. If it does not reset after cooldown, then replace the high limit switch.

      1.  Avatar

        Thank you for your quick reply Matthew. I already replaced the 2nd high limit switch (assuming this is the switch that is closest to the right). I also replaced the U.G. and the internal bypass spring which was corroded. There did not appear to be any build up in the heat exchanger tubes.

        The heater does cool down and produce hot water again but then the HL2 code returns after a while again. Is this safe to keep running this way?

  8. Izabela Avatar

    Hello, I have a HL1 code, it keeps blinling service, what do I do?

  9. Chris Avatar

    What heater sensor do I need for a Raypak model # P-D206A-EN-C with a SNS code?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I believe it is the Temperature Sensor, IID Units – 009577F. The parts diagram for the ehater can be found here: Raypak Atmospheric Digital Heaters 206A-406A (11/01/04-Current) As shown in the article, the things to check:

      1. Water temperature is below 36F or above 110F
      2. If the two thermistors are more than 2 degrees apart, the SNS code will appear.
      3. Loose or corroded connection at P1.
      4. If the sensor is not mounted all the way into the JACO fitting on the header, it may give a false reading.

  10. Nadia Avatar

    Hi what does remote no demand mean?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      This is a reply I received from a Raypak tech regarding your Remote no Demand code:

      It means that the heater is in “Remote Mode” and the water temperature is at or above the setpoint temperature selected on the controller. First of all, is the heater connected to a remote controller?

      If not, then the customer may have accidentally put the heater into remote mode -by depressing the up and down arrows for three seconds or more. If this seems to be the case, they do the same thing to exit remote mode. If this continues to occur, then the buttons on the touchpad may be stuck, in which case they would need to change the touchpad (decal membrane switch). Hope this helps. Please feel free to give me a call to discuss further.

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