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The 5 Worst Pool Advice We Have Ever Heard

Worst pool advice ever

Let’s face it, with access to the internet, a lot of jobs and skills that were once sought out and paid for have become jobs you can do yourself. With a little advice and a Youtube video, you can almost build anything on your own. Still, not all advice given is created equal nor should be treated equally. Unfortunately, in the pool industry, bad advice can sometimes mean hundreds of dollars out of your pocket and a lot of missed time out of your pool. Throughout the years we have encountered a lot of customers who have taken their share of bad advice. We wanted to share the top 5 with you in hopes you won’t make those same mistakes. Caveat Emptor!

“I was told I could just put the chlorine tablets in the skimmer or pump basket.”

I’m saddened to say that we encounter this issue at least five times every season and our response is always the same, “Please do NOT put your chlorine tablets into your skimmer or pump.” Your pump and filter are the two driving forces that keep your pool clean and healthy. Let’s say you decide to put your chlorine tablets, or “hockey pucks” as a lot of people like to call them, into your skimmer. Once your pump and filter turns off, the tablets keep dissolving in your skimmer, forming highly acidic water. Once the pump is turned back on, this same acidic water goes straight into the filter. This can compromise the internal parts of your filter – cartridges, o-rings, and gaskets – forcing you to replace them earlier than normally necessary.

Instead of putting chlorine tablets in your skimmer or pump, we recommend using a chlorinator. A chlorinator will automatically disperse chlorine into your pool according to an adjustable setting on the unit. Chlorinators work with your existing pump and filter and are usually very easy to install. Another option is a floating chlorinator which is just a plastic vessel that holds tablets and floats in the pool. Floating chlorinators are super cheap and can usually be found in local stores like Walmart. Whatever you do, though,  please do not put chlorine tablets into your skimmer or pump!

“My pool guy told me I could run my pump a few hours a day…. but now my pool is green.”

Pool pumps should run on average between 8-10 hours a day. As a basic rule of thumb, you should be able to filter your entire pool within an 8-hour time frame. In other words, your entire pool (in gallons) should pass through the filter in this 8 hour period. If you are not giving your pump and filter enough time to properly clean the pool and keep the chemicals in flow, your pool will turn green. Not to mention, it might be unsafe for even recreational purposes.

As a pool owner, you need to become comfortable with certain pool calculations. If not for yourself, definitely as a means of double checking pool “professionals” who may steer you in the wrong direction. Here’s how you can calculate the minimum time you need to operate your pump

  1. Determine how many gallons of water is in your pool.  (Pool’s length x Pool’s width x Pool’s average depth x 7.5)
  2. Figure out the pump’s gallon per minute (GPM) This information is typically listed on the pump label. Once you find this number, multiply that by 60 to get the gallons per hour.
  3. Divide the gallons per hour into the total gallons in your pool.
  4. This answer gives you the minimum hours needed to run your pump so that your entire pool is filtered properly.

So the next time someone recommends that you run your pump for “insert # of hours”, always refer back to the GPM of your pump. No one likes to swim in a dirty pool and no pool owner likes to spend additional money to fix something that was preventable from the start.

“My pool guy sold me a bigger pump than I had on before because he said the bigger the pump, the less I’ll have to run it.”

When it comes to pumps, bigger is not always better. A pump is limited by the plumbing size set up at your home and the maximum capacity your pool filter can handle. A higher horsepower (HP) means more power and energy is being used to pump the same amount of water, thus causing your energy bill to skyrocket. A higher horsepower draws more amps but does not move the water faster through your circulation system. Instead of reaping the benefits you thought you were getting by increasing your HP, you end up with a higher energy bill, a burnt-out motor, and an oversized pump you spent more money on than you wish you had.

If you need help trying to properly size your pool pump or want to verify if your current HP is accurate, then please check out our how to guide labeled How To Size A Pool Pump.

If you’re looking to save money, our advice is to switch to a dual speed or variable speed pump. By switching to one of these, you are able to operate your pump using less energy. You can operate your pump at the lower speeds during normal circulation and on high speed whenever you clean your pool. And who doesn’t like saving money, right? In short, bigger is not better when determining the horsepower for your pool pump. Over sizing is very common, but very easy to fix. We are always available to verify if your pump is oversized and if you are overspending.

“You can determine if your pool is clean by the smell of chemicals.”

If someone ever tells you this, take a step back, and go in the opposite direction. The smell of chemicals is not an indication of a clean pool, but just the opposite. A properly disinfected pool has no strong chemical smell. The strong smell common to many pools, especially public, is due to something called chloramines. Chloramines are the byproducts of chlorine’s reaction to contaminants brought into the pool by swimmers. These contaminants include perspiration, urine, body oils, and cosmetics.

Therefore, a strong chemical odor is actually an indication that the chlorine in the pool is working overtime due to the excess amount of contaminants and not an indication of it being clean.

“My pool guy told me I could use Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to lubricate my o-rings.”

You should never, ever use Vaseline or any petroleum-based lubricants for any of your o-rings. Most manufacturers recommend a silicone or a Teflon-based lubricant for all o-rings and gaskets. The oil composites of the petroleum jelly will cause the rubber to break down and will completely eat away your o-ring. Although o-rings range in size from really small to very large, never underestimate their power or the importance of their job. Using the wrong type of lubricant can cause leaks and ruin your system.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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156 responses to “The 5 Worst Pool Advice We Have Ever Heard”

  1.  Avatar

    We have just put our salt water pool in this past April and love it. I am getting mixed messages about the chlorine tabs. If I have a salt cell do I also need to use chlorine tabs? I have my automatic pool chlorination system set at 85%. My equipment also has an “inline” tube where I am suppose to add the tabs set at. I have been told I don’t need the tabs. Another told me I needed 3 tabs a week. My chlorine is about 5 at this point, high. We live it Houston and been pushing 100 degree temps if that matters.
    Any help would be great.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The use of chlorine tabs to supplement your salt chlorine generator is not necessary if your generator is operating correctly.

      The use of tabs would only be necessary if your cell was falling behind the chlorine demand. But in those instances, I suggest shocking your pool for a quick boost instead of the slow dissolve of a chlorine tablet. The only reason I can see telling someone you need tabs is to introduce stabilizer into your pool, but you should already be using some sort of water conditioner (CYA.)

  2. Kassie Avatar

    Hello, couple questions, I’ve had my pool for probably about 2+ months. It’s basically an offbrand intex (Summer Waves) 18ft around 4ft deep. I believe it’s around 7,700 gallons. We had a bad algae problem, because I was putting in the wrong amount of chemicals for the gallons (figured that out the hard way), finally got rid of it and couldn’t get rid of the dead white floating algae. So we drained it, shop vacuumed, and scrubbed it sparkling clean. Got it back up and it’s been nearly perfect for about a month. Started forming algae, vacuumed it out before it got bad. By the way, this time around the chlorine and PH were perfect. Decided to finally switch to a sand filter, because that stock cartridge filter just wasn’t doing the job and had to put a new cartridges in every day.
    To help with information the brand is Blue Wave Sandman filter pump and base (I believe it’s the 12″ filter and 1/2 hp pump from what I found on the Internet)
    Well, I have no clue what I’m doing with this sand filter. The instructions were very brief and not informative after you got the filter put together. I had no idea where to put the hoses that went into the pool… still not even sure I got it right, when I first hooked it up the intake on the pool was shooting out water instead of taking it into the filter, switched the hoses around. The hoses on the pump are leaking and they’re as tight as they go. The pool place didn’t mention it didn’t come with a backwash hose. And I have no clue how or when to back wash?! And I also wasn’t told I’d need a skimmer, which I’m sure they knew I didn’t have one. I also told them I had no idea whay I was doing lol. Do I absolutely need a skimmer with a Sand filter?! Where do I put chemicals in now that I don’t have a cartridge filter?? Before, the instructions always said to add to filter. Also, any other basic information I should know as a beginning sand pump filter user would be great! Also, my email address is khausman94@live.com justhe incase! Thank you!

    1. Kassie Avatar

      Also, jusy came home and the pool is turning green again! Ugh!

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Kassie,

        Have you taken a sample of your water to a pool store for a free water test? If you haven’t, do it immediately and post the results so we can begin to figure out the source of the problem.

        1) Here is a guide on how to backwash a sand filter, read it and bookmark it: How To Backwash a Pool Sand Filter

        2) Yes, you need a pool skimmer. No matter the filter type, a pool should have a skimmer to help remove surface debris and water circulation.

        3) It depends on the chemical, but you would either add it directly to the pool, or dilute in a bucket of water then pour around pool’s circumference.

        Here are a couple beginner guides to pools: Pool and Spa Chemical Questions, New Pool Owner’s Ultimate Pool Basics Guide

        1.  Avatar

          Clorox has a really good product out for mustard algae cleaned it up in 2 days

          1.  Avatar

            DONT USE CLOROX PRODUCTS PERIOD

  3. Tina Avatar

    Mathew
    So about the last question it was done by auto correct

    What I was asking. In my sand pump manual it states that it doesn’t require the use of a lot of chemicals. Just wondering if that is correct.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Unless the filter has some sort of special antimicrobial thingamajig in there that I do not know about, it just sounds like a puffed up selling point. The sand filter is going to require the same amount of chemicals as the other types.

  4. Tina Avatar

    Hello. I have an Intex 15×48 above ground 5000 gallon. I have bought a Krystal clear sand pump. It’s seems to working good. I just have a few questions I’ve read some comments.

    1– I don’t need to run my pump all the time? I run it 24/7
    2– I shock my pool once a week. Is that ok?
    3– I’m confident send about chemicals as the pump instructions say you won’t need as much.

    I’m so confused
    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      1. If sized correctly, a pump and filter can turnover your water twice or more in an in 8 hour period. That should be enough to keep your water clean, if the chemicals are in check.
      2. Shocking the pool is only really necessary when you have a severe deficiency in chlorine. If you keep your water chemistry in check, there is no need shock it every week.
      3. I do not understand the wording of the question.

  5. Miranda Avatar

    My daughter’s friend open up the floating puck holder my pool is 3 months old ..it’s a above ground intex pool it bleached a big 3 in circle in the bottom. .will it mess my pool up bad..I’m not worried about the white spot. .I’m worried it may have damaged liner..and I can’t afford another pool.

  6. Melanie Avatar

    Is it ok to leave chlorine pucks sitting on the bottom of a gunnite pool? We had a serious black algae bloom and were given the advice to scrub the algae with a wire brush them spread chlorine pucks over the bottom and let them sit there. Of course no one will be swimming in the pool until the chlorine levels get back to 4ppm but I was wondering if it will damage the pool floor.

    1. Blake Avatar

      You need to contact someone about black algae immediately, black algae hates the sunlight, if it has gotten to the pool floor then it has grown elsewhere, in your pipes etc. You need to have black algae treatment done, it does not go away with brushing or raising the chlorine it will continue to spread until a treatment has been done, or the pool has been partially drained and an acid wash has been performed.

      1. Sonrise Pools Avatar

        Drain and acid wash is a very extreme recommendation for black algae it can typically be remedied by triple shocking and using a copper, silver, or sodium bromide based black algaecide followed with brushing and maintaining a high free chlorine level for several days. Although the active ingredient in chlorine tabs will effectively kill black algae via direct contact, it is asl so acidic it can put your Gunite surface if left in contact for a prolonged time.

    2. Donna R Avatar

      do not brush black algae until you have killed it or it will spread. Rub the spots with a chlorine tab. I would not let the, sit in the bottom of the pool.

    3. Alison Avatar

      I would use TriChlor instead of the pucks.

  7. Simon Avatar

    I’m waiting for salt water chlorinator to arrive can i use pucks until i can install it and what will be the effect when i converse to salt water.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Yes, you can use standard chlorine tablets in the meantime, it will have no adverse effects to converting your pool to salt.

      1. Simon Avatar

        thanks

      2.  Avatar

        salt is nothing more than a chlorine generator

      3.  Avatar

        convert your pool to salt???dude you have no clue. A salt system is nothing but a chlorine generator. Except the fact you are putting 400 pounds of salt in your pool and compromising your entire system with the most corrosive element around..salt!!

        1. 44 yrs in the pool industry Avatar

          Thier is various opinions on salt pools. I have removed many due to the corrosion factor. Light rings are quickly damaged as well as other parts of your pool circulation system. The metals in the tracks of auto covers are severely damaged. Even using zinc anodes still isn’t adequate. Never experienced these drastic issues in well balanced chlorine pools.

        2. Doris Hammersley Avatar

          I agree.

      4.  Avatar

        anybody that converts their pool to a “salt system” is highly misinformed. It’s the same exact thing as chlorine except prepare to pay at least another $700 dollars every 3 years to replace the shitty cells they sell and all the extra salt that corrodes your whole system, especially if you have a heater

        1. Joy Avatar

          If anyone is using 700 pounds of salt, you are crazy. No wonder your cells corroded. A salt system is the best way to go.

          1. Tom Avatar

            Joy,

            I have an in-ground pool that is about 24k gallons. In order to get from 0 to 3500 PPM it is 700 lbs of salt. The amount of salt you need depends on the amount of water your pool holds.

    2. Nancy Avatar

      We have used salt filter for several years, love it . Pool is crystal clear, feels great, doesn’t fade suits. No burning eyes. We have a 24 ft round pool, used 150 lbs of salt 5$ a bag of 40 lbs. have no idea what others are talking about with exaggerated costs. We use a sand pump and a salt filter. So much less than chlorine filter. Never go back. Do some investigating and you can make a educated decision.

      1.  Avatar

        There is no such thing as a salt filer it’s a salt generator there is no sand pump it’s a sand filer and a pool pump. I think you need to do more investigation.

      2.  Avatar

        Maybe ur is clear, however common sense will tell u salt corroades everything period.

        1. Tom Avatar

          Common sense tell you to clean things to avoid corrosion. Most salt corrosion is avoided with proper maintenance. I’ve been running the same generator, pumps, ladders, slide, diving board, etc for over a decade,

  8. Mike Avatar

    I just brought a 18′ ×48″ pool and I was trying to see what I need to do after I put water in

    1. Mike Avatar

      I just brought a 18′ ×48″ above ground pool and I was trying to see what I need to do after I put water in …do I need to put. Clorine in

      1. SJP Avatar

        Research pool start up and which chemicals you’ll need. Buy a test kit and test often as you go slowly. Don’t overdue it by just dumping in chemicals. That gets expensive trying to reverse that mistake.

  9. JUDY Avatar

    I have a couple questions! First all I have an above ground pool. It’s just over 6000 gallons. the tiny pump that came with the pool was most certainly not sufficient and was causing me to have to constantly watch my pool water. I have A purchased a sand pump that is for a pool with 12000 gallons and I have noticed I only have to put chemicals in my pool once a week and generally that’s only chlorine as my ph level chlorine levels and alkalinity levels staying perfect since getting this pump the question I have is, every now and then I get a slight chlorine smell and I’m just wondering if that’s okay? It’s not super strong you have to be really close to the water to smell it but when I read your post above about chemical smells not being good I just wanted to make sure that my water is safe as long as its testing correctly? Sorry this is so long thank you for your help.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Good question Judy! That chlorine smell is “used” chlorine that is no longer helping clean your water. We do not want that used up chlorine clogging our nostrils or our pool water, so I suggest shocking your pool with cal-hypo pool shock (follow dosage instructions on package label.) If after shocking the pool, the smell persists, and your test still comes back as perfect, I suggest taking a sample for a pool store water test for a second opinion.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Actually, we’re both right. Your method can work but the approach I laid is the more commonly accepted and widely used technique. Also, it is backed by the American Chemical Council so it is not something we’re guessing on.

        It sounds like you were trained by some good people, but I was trained by the best.

      2. Mark Avatar

        You could not be more wrong ! If you smell chlorine your smelling chloramines or dead chlorine your free chlorine and available chorine numbers are not the same and this is what your smelling it need to be shocked to bring the pool in balance . I am a pool builder with over 40years of experience

      3. Bob Avatar

        no he is right you are wrong adding more calhypo can increase the chlorimines unless u hit the chlorine break point an o2 based shock wipes it all out

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      As stated above Dylan, the non-chlor and the cal hypo option will work. The latter is the more common, time-tested method.

      1. Dylan M Avatar

        That’s laughable. If you were trained by the “best” you would have suggested getting your water tested before adding addition Calcium Hypochlorite. Due to the chlorine smell, you don’t know what her chlorine levels are (for example say they are at 7.5ppm) and you are telling her to add additional Calcium Hypochlorite, how is that going to help remove the strong smell from the chlorine? It isn’t, it would only ensure that it remains with such strong Chlorine odor. You never just throw additional Calcium Hypochlorite just based upon the smell of the water, ALWAYS test your water chemistry FIRST and that will surely indicate what is needed next.

    3. David Avatar

      You can’t tell anyone to maintain chlorine levels at 3ppm without knowing what their CYA level is. The higher the CYA, the more chlorine is required to properly sanitize the pool. If they have been using pucks, their CYA levels could easily be over 100, meaning chlorine levels of 3ppm is a recipe for a green pool.

      You should not only test the pool for free chlorine, but also combined chloramines (cc). A cc level greater than .5ppm indicates something is probably growing in the water (algae) and the chlorine is fighting it. This is the “chemical” smell most people notice.

      The best chlorine you can add to your pool is plain bleach. This adds chlorine without adding unwanted chemicals like extra CYA or extra calcium.

      1. AndyP Avatar

        Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes!!!

        More fantastic advice straight from the Trouble Free Pool (tfp) BBB ‘bible’.

        FC of 3 is meaningless.
        Chlorine in relation to CYA (cyanuric acid – ‘stablizer’ (but ideally NOT from pucks) ) is everything.

        And the ‘chlorine’ smell CAN be ‘good’. Useful at least. An indicator that the chlorine is DOING IT’S JOB but that therefore there is some ‘nasty’ in there meaning, knowing CYA level (and getting pH ideally lowered to around 7.2), add chlorine to YOUR APPROPRIATE ‘SHOCK’ LEVEL where it no longer just prevents stuff occurring but kills what has got there faster than it can grow. And KEEP the chlorine level up there with frequent checks and additions as necessary. And quit the ‘attack on the nasties’ only when OCLT and the other two qualifiers (see tfp) have all passed.

      2. Doris Hammersley Avatar

        Just plain bleach is for laundry and cleaning. It contains 2% to 5% sodium hypochlorite. It also usually contains phosphates. Phosphates are great for cleaning – they are also a great fertilizer for plant life. Algae is plant life. As a result, when you add bleach to your pool – you are also adding algae food. When the sodium hypochlorite burns off, (and it will as soon as the sun comes out, because it is not stable) you are left with algae food in your pool. Real pool shock never contains cyanuric acid, but many contain calcium. If you want to shock your pool without adding calcium, add lithium hypochlorite, potassium monopersulfate, or liquid chlorine (at least 12% sodium hypochlorite – without phosphates). Get the purest liquid chlorine from your local swimming pool supply store.

      3. Bill's Pool Service, Bill Avatar

        I am a pool professional in Dallas Texas with a background in engineering. Typically I keep my free chlorine levels at about 7% of what my CYA levels are. I also rarely super chlorinate to reach breakpoint chlorination and prefer to use a small amount of sodium bromide to get rid of combined chlorine.

  10. Nyabera joseph Avatar

    Am a swimming pool contractor in Kenya. I started this venture 5 months ago, my encounter with most clients is the swimming pool equipments are costly how can you help them out. Do you supply the Kenyan & East African market?
    Kind regards,
    Nyabera

    1. PAtrick Paroline Avatar

      Hi Nyabera,

      We do ship our products to Africa and all over the world as normally we can provide quite a savings versus purchasing locally. Typically our international customers would have us ship to a freight forwarder of there choosing here in the USA and then the customer makes arrangements with the freight forwarder for the delivery from the USA to there country.

    2. Dennis Martin Avatar

      Look up the BBB method on you tube for your chemicals. Much less expensive.

      1. AndyP Avatar

        YAY FOR THIS!!!Better yet – ask Google any question you have and add ‘tfp’ on the end, for ‘trouble free pool’.
        Unbelievably awesome resource.
        And Yes. Outside of problems – nothing (almost ever) except plain unscented NOT-splashless bleach or liquid chlorine.
        Problems? Bleach again, just a bit more. And a couple other mostly household products (normally repackaged by pool stores with a cranked-up price tag.

      2. Bill's Pool Service, Bill Avatar

        There is Merit to that system if you’re in Northern California or a cool climate but in the Southern United States it is pretty much hopeless.

        1. J Ocasi Avatar

          Couldn’t disagree more. TFP is appropriate for all climates. I’m in Florida and been an avid follower for 5 years.

          1. George Avatar

            At first glance TFP seems to be a good resource for pool advice. If you believe SWGs are the only way to sanitize your pool then they are spot on. Also, I agree adding liquid chlorine (Shock) is better than tablets or powder chlorine. I happen to have went with a UV sanitation unit supplemented with a Pool Frog XL which keeps my chlorine levels between 1-3 ppm. I did this to preserve my heater which could be damaged by scale that could occur using a SWG system. In any case, results of using a UV compared to SWG are nearly identicle. TFP castrated me for not going with a SWG. I realized they are almost cult like. The motivation for only recommending SWG systems is money! They are aligned with manufacturers and make huge amounts of money promoting SWG equipment. So, if you are convinced SWG is the way to go, TFP has some good advice, however, they are cult like which is a bit scary. I posted a pressure issue I was having with my pool and some genius on the TFP forum told me to read about the law of dilution to fix my problem. TFP members don’t know what they are talking about and the only thing they teach is how to drink their Cool Aid.

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