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The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems

Installing and troubleshooting a heater that is still under warranty without proper licensing can forfeit your warranty under the manufacturer’s terms and conditions. If your heater is out of warranty, sometimes, it’s simply cheaper to do it yourself. If you yourself in this scenario, this blog article is for you. In this blog article, we cover the most common swimming pool heater problems a pool owner might encounter and remedies to fix the issue.

My Heater Won’t Ignite

One of the most common problems with pool heaters is it failing to ignite.

Is your heater turned ON and the temperature set correctly?

  • Ensure that the thermostat is set to a higher temperature than the current water temperature.

Is your pump running with a clean filter and basket?

  • Inspect the pump and filter and clean if necessary.

Make sure that the pilot is lit (millivolt heaters).

  • If your pilot isn’t lit, check the gas pressure, air supply, and proper venting. Make sure the pilot tube is intact and not clogged. For MV heaters, if the pilot won’t stay lit, check the output on the thermocouple.

Is the gas supply valve in the ON position?

  • Without gas, the heater won’t operate. If the supply valve is OFF, turn it ON.

Are the plumbing and filter valves open?

  • Make sure to keep your valves open as to not prevent the water flow.

Low Water Flow

In order for a heater to operate smoothly and efficiently, it’s important that pool system maintains a consistent flow of water. Manufacturers equip swimming pool heaters with pressure sensors. These special sensors monitor and detect changes in water flow. For example, in some cases, you will see a “Low Water Flow” warning pop up on your heater’s LCD screen. Or, you might notice your heater isn’t pushing out as much warm water as it should or used to. Honestly, this is a very common occurrence. If you are experiencing low water flow, or your heater won’t start, ask yourself the following questions:

Have you cleaned your filter lately?

  • Monitor your PSI reading on your filter’s pressure gauge. If the PSI is too high, clean your filter.
  • Increasing pressure goes hand in hand with the decrease of water flow.

Is your pump basket dirty?

  • Check your pump’s strainer basket. Remove the basket and remove the debris with a hose.
  • Ensure the pump basket and lid are in good conditions. No cracks.

Do you have too many water features operating at once?

  • Your pool pump only moves a certain number of GPMs, therefore, too many water features can dramatically decrease your water flow.
  • If possible, replace the motor with a larger one.
  • Close water features, or alternate them, until the pool heats to the desired temperature.

Defective Pressure Sensor/switch (Most Common)

  • The purpose of the pressure switch is to ensure that water is flowing through the unit before it allows the heater to turn on.
  • The pool pump must be ON and your filter clean for the switch to close and allow voltage to pass through.
  • Test the voltage reading on the pressure switch with a multimeter.
  • Replace the pressure switch if necessary

Are you using the low settings on your variable speed pump?

  • For operation, heaters require a minimum GPM flow. If you are running your variable speed pump on the low setting, make sure you meet the minimum GPMs for your heater.

Pool Heater Turns ON and OFF (Cycles)

If your swimming pool heater is cycling ON and OFF, it is an early indication that the electrical connection or power supply is experiencing issues. However, it isn’t ALWAYS the case. There are other factors that can actively contribute to your heater’s ON and OFF cycles.

Is your pool water chemistry consistently and accurately balanced?

  • Poor water chemistry is one of the leading causes of equipment failure, especially pool heaters.
  • Test your water before adjusting your chemical levels. If unsure, please refer to the heater’s manual for the recommended chemical levels.

Have you inspected the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, and/or the high limit switch?

  • Inspect these parts for corrosion, scaling, and/or any electrolysis issues.
  • If the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, or high limit switch is faulty, corroded, or defective- replace it.

Have you cleaned your filter?

  • A dirty filter can cause low pressure and as a result, cause the heater’s pressure switch to turn OFF. A dirty filter can prevent a heater from firing and it can also cause your heater to shut off before warming the water to the desired temperature.

When’s the last time you have inspected and cleaned the heat exchanger?

  • Deterioration of the heat exchanger can impact your heater’s operation. Inspect your heat exchanger for chemical or sanitizer damage.

Pool Heater Isn’t Heating

Sometimes, your pool heater ignites but doesn’t reach the desired temperature. Or, maybe your heater isn’t generating heat at all. Both situations are very common.

Inspect your temperature sensor.

  • Make sure you have installed the temperature sensor correctly and it is in good condition.

Double check your thermostat settings

  • Set your thermostat to a higher temperature.

Did you properly size your pool heater?

  • If your heater is undersized, it will have problems heating your pool up. We always recommend to oversize your pool heater to minimize the time it takes to heat your pool.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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209 responses to “The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems”

  1. dan n Avatar

    Hi Matthew,

    My Raypak 266A popped the roll out fuse. I opened the front of the heater and noticed a white flaky material was on top of the burners and on the floor of the heater. I cleaned out about an 1/8th of a cup of this material. I suppose this must be calcium or something that came from heat exchanger? What do you think?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Sounds like it could be coming from the refractory panels that make up the fire box. Is there any indication of pest infestation in the cabinet (on top of the heat exchanger, or in the junction box)? Had the heater been leaking or condensing? Moisture could cause the refractory to delaminate.

  2. Adam P Avatar

    Hello, I have a a Hayward h250hdp… It was heating fine until today. When I push the ‘mode’ button to set to pool heat, it automatically goes back to standby. I’ve checked flow, gas, etc. Any ideas?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are there any codes flashing before or after it switches to Standby mode?

  3. Don Lawhorn Avatar

    Water flow low. Compressor turns off. Cleaned system flow seems great. However fan motors run until compressor comes on. Within several minutes it shuts down. New filter new pressure gauge. Service indicated not low on Freon

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Can you provide a model number of the heater?

  4. Marc Hall Avatar

    Pool water was overheating. Was told thermostats
    were a common problem. Replaced both thermostats
    still have the same problem. (It’s an in ground, in Georgia, was fine last year. It was just filled to prep for season.)

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      First, we need to know what type of heater it is. What is the model number of the heater? Knowing the make and model of a heater can narrow the possibilities of what is causing the issue.

  5. Tim Avatar

    My Pentair 200 heater will turn on and red service light on immediately, the blower turns on, then the burner lights up runs for about 20 seconds and shuts off, blower cycles for about 60 seconds and shuts off, but board is frozen, no buttons on or off or temp control work unless I kill power, and I have done obvious filter cleaned, water flow good, gas is on, any suggestions

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is the model number of the heater? There are a lot of Pentair heaters with 200 as a BTU rating.

      1. Robin D Avatar

        Hi
        With the Hayward pro system panel is the heater set to pool or standby
        We just had the ignition switch changed but it said bo and was on standby
        I have switched it to pool. Is that correct ?

        1. Robin D Avatar

          Is it normal to smell gas after ignition was changed earlier today ?

    2.  Avatar

      Blow on the hose to the pressure switch and make it shift. Follow the rubber hose. One side is suction and the other is discharge. Either blow on the hose or suck on the suction side. It will manipulate it and force it to shift. If you don’t want to do that then you can always just jump it out. Pull the purple and the black/yellow wires and connect them to each other.

  6. Vesper Avatar

    Hello,
    I was wondering if you could help me figure out what is happening to my heater. I have a Hayward heater and ProLogic unit that operates all equipment.
    Everything seems to be working fine, with the exception, that the heater is always ON. The ProLogic unit is set to Heater OFF, but the heater still turns on. Have you ever heard of this situation? Any ideas how to fix it?
    Thank you!

    1. Bebe Avatar

      I have the same set up, and I’ve come home on two separate occasions to the heater having turned on and the pool being over 97 degrees. I do not know why it is turning on. when I want to use the heater I have to physical press the buttons on the heater!

    2. Ed Avatar

      I have the same problem, any help would be appreciated. I replaced the bezel and keyboard assembly as old unit was not working at all. Worn out my weather.

    3. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      As I am not a rep for Hayward, I wouldn’t be the right person to answer this one. But, it could be that the heater isn’t correctly wired to the pro logic or that isn’t properly set up in the settings of the pro logic.

  7. Peter B Avatar

    What would be a likely cause of a Raypak 266 gas pool heater to have close to a 10 degree (higher) difference than the pool water itself?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Could be a bad temp sensor, or we have seen where the temp sensor rides upward and out of the sensor well. Usually, this occurs if there was water left to freeze in the bottom of the header, and the ice forces the sensor upward; then the sensor is reading cabinet temp rather than water temp.

  8. Jon Scott Avatar

    My gas pool heater shut off because of no water flow. I have tried everything i can think of to get it to turn back on. I have tried flipping the breaker, checking all the connections in the heater. What do i do next?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What model is your pool heater? Also, have you checked your system’s flowmeter or filter’s pressure gauge to determine if your flowrate has slowed?

    2.  Avatar

      Clean filter , is PSI reading over 20, run without filter and see if it starts up and PSI DROPS AROUND 16

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        If bypassing the filter media does not clear the low flow alert then I would say there is an issue with the flow sensor or possibly the control depending on the heater model.

  9. Brian M Avatar

    Ok, I have a new Hayward HP50TA Heat pump. Works fantastic. Very efficient and quiet. What I can’t figure out is how to get it to turn off when the pump turns off. When 5e pump stops on its timer, if the pool is not at the set temp, the heat pump shuts the fan off and goes into FLo mode (low water flow) mode, but does not shut off. Shouldn’t the heat pump power off when the pump is not running?

    1. Jeff Avatar

      It’s normal to say no flow and hibernate until the pool motor comes back on. Your fine…

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        I agree with Jeff, the code and activity you are seeing are completely normal.

  10. Losing soon Avatar

    Ok, I’m at my wits end. I read everything about D.E. going back into your pool. I have taken apart the Hayward 4820 filter over and over. There is no cracks in the standpipe, the o-ring is good on it. The manifold also has no cracks in it. I checked every grid for rips . The filter is running at 10psi with a clean startup and stays running that way. My return lines do not have the D.E. blowing out when I’m filtering for hours. The pool is clean. When the filter is off that’s when it seems the DE appears . I read there can be a suction leak. I do not have air bubbles. I replaced the gasket on the lid. I also opened the multiport and the spider gasket is in good condition. So why I’m I finding light grey D.E. in my pool everyday when I wake up. I will say my motor has been acting up and is ready to go!!! Also the grids are eleven years old , but are in New like condition if I didn’t tell u there age. Is there something I’m missing here?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The only other thing I can think of is filter backflush. If your system loses prime when the pump shuts off, water inside the filter tank will go two ways, through the returns or backflush through the pump and out of the suction lines. I saw this phenomenon rear its head in a pool just the other day. We depressurized the system to install a salt chlorine generator, then when we started back up we noticed a heap of DE powder by the main drain.

    2. Larry S. Avatar

      Had same problem. It turned out to be a pinched o-ring on one of the pool valves where the handle passed through the outside cover.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        The smallest of gaskets can cause the biggest of problems. Good troubleshooting.

      2. MattFreese Avatar

        I have a Pentair MiniMax Plus HP and it does not seem to be heating. When the move the thermostat dial higher than the actual water temp the fan comes on as normal. There is a delay before the compressor tries to kick on. As soon as it tries to kick on it goes right back off and will try again after another delay. Any ideas why this would be happening and how to troubleshoot?

        Thanks

        1. Sarah Spilka Avatar

          Did you ever solve your problem? We have a Pentair MasterTemp 250, and the gas comes on perfectly. Then after 10 minutes or up to 1 hour the heater turns off! well before it has reached the set temperature. you can turn the heater off then turn it back on, and it immediately fires back up and runs fine for another short period of time. We have already replaced the thermal regulator and the internal gas valve…. ANY suggestions?

          1. Peter Riley Avatar

            Did you ever figure it out? I am having the same problem with the same heater?

          2. Martha Avatar

            Same problem here!
            Any suggestions yet?

          3. Hibby Avatar

            I think this is caused by insufficient water pressure to the heater. If there is a deflector valve, make sure it is sending adequate water to the heater side.

          4.  Avatar

            I had this same problem. A key characteristic of my issue was that the blower was still running. With that, there are only a few things that control the gas valve while the blower still runs. The hi-temp sensors and the blower sensor. To test this, the hi-temp sensors are on the heat exchanger (two twin sensors on the left of the exchange when looking at the front). Pull the red wires and jump them with a paper clip and run. If the same problem exists, do the same with the blower sensor (the round sensor mounted to the outer case). If the problem exists after that, you’re where I was, very frustrating. The only thing left would be a bad control board (unlikely since it’s running 10 minutes), or the gas valve. I changed out the gas valve and it’s been running perfectly ever since. Hope this helps.

          5. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Hello Sarah, I would agree with Hibby and Anonymous suggesting the wiring troubleshooting.

            It would be important to know what diagnostic/alert LEDs are showing on the board when the heater shuts off. The back of the control module shows a fault guide so that you can translate the blinking LEDs. Knowing this code would show you where to concentrate your efforts.

            minimax control module

            Checking water flow is the simplest to troubleshoot. I’d check your filter’s current psi level, then give it a thorough backwash or spray down the cartridges. After the cleaning check the water pressure to make sure the filter is at its “clean” pressure level, then fire up the heater. Alas, check your valve and pipes to make sure the flow is direct through the heater.

          6.  Avatar

            My gas heat to the unit there is no power to the unit

          7. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Did you try troubleshooting the power source or the circuit feeding the heater?

        2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          Are there any alerts or faults displaying on the panel or the control module?

          https://i.imgur.com/q4QnF5c.jpgpool heater control panel

        3. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          Have you checked that there is enough water flow reaching the heater? Also, is there any alert or error code flashing on the heater display or the control module?

        4. Tester Avatar

          Test

    3. john Avatar

      bought a brand new Hayward H100
      had it installed and now there is no power going to the ignition
      everything else has power except for the purple and two white wires going into the ignition switch, which is in the on position.
      any ideas??
      thanks

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Either there is a loose connection or the ignition defective. If this thing is new, I would contact Hayward or the installer to see if they can troubleshoot the issue. Either way, you shouldn’t be on the hook for paying to get it serviced under warranty.

    4.  Avatar

      Do you have a push pull valve or a multivalve.. The orings on the P/P or the diverter spider gasket are bad..change them out with oem replacments

    5.  Avatar

      I noticed the variation from the location of the sensors in the time of the recall and after I boiled the calcium out of my header heat exchange it stop popping and crackling started to do it again I changed out the service backflow so unit still appears to be clean I have plenty of flow whatever happened to the old fashioned Teledyne Laars in years you put in didn’t have to worry about him for 30 years no electronics no gadgets no whistles no Bells they just worked

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Teledyne Laars redesigned, got bought by Jandy, and then redesigned again. Seemingly every evolution became more complex, that is why I usually do not recommend them. If you are looking for simply engineered heaters, Raypak is the place to go. You can see whyRaypak is the choice to go within this comparison guide Product Battle Series 2: Hayward Heater Vs. Raypak Heater. I know it is Raypak vs Hayward, but the complexity of the Jandy and Hayward are similar.

    6. philip Avatar

      change your check valve between pool pump and filter if leaking through it will empty D.E. back into pool

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        See how to find air leaks in your plumbing lines and valves in this guide/video: How to test for suction side air leaks

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