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The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems

Installing and troubleshooting a heater that is still under warranty without proper licensing can forfeit your warranty under the manufacturer’s terms and conditions. If your heater is out of warranty, sometimes, it’s simply cheaper to do it yourself. If you yourself in this scenario, this blog article is for you. In this blog article, we cover the most common swimming pool heater problems a pool owner might encounter and remedies to fix the issue.

My Heater Won’t Ignite

One of the most common problems with pool heaters is it failing to ignite.

Is your heater turned ON and the temperature set correctly?

  • Ensure that the thermostat is set to a higher temperature than the current water temperature.

Is your pump running with a clean filter and basket?

  • Inspect the pump and filter and clean if necessary.

Make sure that the pilot is lit (millivolt heaters).

  • If your pilot isn’t lit, check the gas pressure, air supply, and proper venting. Make sure the pilot tube is intact and not clogged. For MV heaters, if the pilot won’t stay lit, check the output on the thermocouple.

Is the gas supply valve in the ON position?

  • Without gas, the heater won’t operate. If the supply valve is OFF, turn it ON.

Are the plumbing and filter valves open?

  • Make sure to keep your valves open as to not prevent the water flow.

Low Water Flow

In order for a heater to operate smoothly and efficiently, it’s important that pool system maintains a consistent flow of water. Manufacturers equip swimming pool heaters with pressure sensors. These special sensors monitor and detect changes in water flow. For example, in some cases, you will see a “Low Water Flow” warning pop up on your heater’s LCD screen. Or, you might notice your heater isn’t pushing out as much warm water as it should or used to. Honestly, this is a very common occurrence. If you are experiencing low water flow, or your heater won’t start, ask yourself the following questions:

Have you cleaned your filter lately?

  • Monitor your PSI reading on your filter’s pressure gauge. If the PSI is too high, clean your filter.
  • Increasing pressure goes hand in hand with the decrease of water flow.

Is your pump basket dirty?

  • Check your pump’s strainer basket. Remove the basket and remove the debris with a hose.
  • Ensure the pump basket and lid are in good conditions. No cracks.

Do you have too many water features operating at once?

  • Your pool pump only moves a certain number of GPMs, therefore, too many water features can dramatically decrease your water flow.
  • If possible, replace the motor with a larger one.
  • Close water features, or alternate them, until the pool heats to the desired temperature.

Defective Pressure Sensor/switch (Most Common)

  • The purpose of the pressure switch is to ensure that water is flowing through the unit before it allows the heater to turn on.
  • The pool pump must be ON and your filter clean for the switch to close and allow voltage to pass through.
  • Test the voltage reading on the pressure switch with a multimeter.
  • Replace the pressure switch if necessary

Are you using the low settings on your variable speed pump?

  • For operation, heaters require a minimum GPM flow. If you are running your variable speed pump on the low setting, make sure you meet the minimum GPMs for your heater.

Pool Heater Turns ON and OFF (Cycles)

If your swimming pool heater is cycling ON and OFF, it is an early indication that the electrical connection or power supply is experiencing issues. However, it isn’t ALWAYS the case. There are other factors that can actively contribute to your heater’s ON and OFF cycles.

Is your pool water chemistry consistently and accurately balanced?

  • Poor water chemistry is one of the leading causes of equipment failure, especially pool heaters.
  • Test your water before adjusting your chemical levels. If unsure, please refer to the heater’s manual for the recommended chemical levels.

Have you inspected the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, and/or the high limit switch?

  • Inspect these parts for corrosion, scaling, and/or any electrolysis issues.
  • If the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, or high limit switch is faulty, corroded, or defective- replace it.

Have you cleaned your filter?

  • A dirty filter can cause low pressure and as a result, cause the heater’s pressure switch to turn OFF. A dirty filter can prevent a heater from firing and it can also cause your heater to shut off before warming the water to the desired temperature.

When’s the last time you have inspected and cleaned the heat exchanger?

  • Deterioration of the heat exchanger can impact your heater’s operation. Inspect your heat exchanger for chemical or sanitizer damage.

Pool Heater Isn’t Heating

Sometimes, your pool heater ignites but doesn’t reach the desired temperature. Or, maybe your heater isn’t generating heat at all. Both situations are very common.

Inspect your temperature sensor.

  • Make sure you have installed the temperature sensor correctly and it is in good condition.

Double check your thermostat settings

  • Set your thermostat to a higher temperature.

Did you properly size your pool heater?

  • If your heater is undersized, it will have problems heating your pool up. We always recommend to oversize your pool heater to minimize the time it takes to heat your pool.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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209 responses to “The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems”

  1. Scott Avatar

    I have a Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 333 Model SR333NA. The water coming out of the returns is not nearly as hot as it was last season. I took the shell of the heater and blew/vacuumed out all the debris and it did not help much. Any suggestions or advice you can offer would be much appreciated!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are there any error or fault codes flashing on the control board? Also, how old is the heater?

  2. Rick Avatar

    I have a Rheem gas heater. It says Water temp 81 degrees. I have unit set to 90. It will fire up and run for 15 seconds and the temp says it goes to 90 and shuts off, then goes back to 81 in 30 seconds and repeats? Any idea

  3. Kevin K. Avatar

    I have a three year old Aqua Cal electric pool heater. Today the heater made a crazy loud noise the shut off completely. The outside circuit breaker for the heater tripped. When I flipped the circuit breaker back on nothing happened. The heater panel is still blank and pool heater stayed shut down . What could have occurred? This is puzzling me. I called my pool installer but they can’t come out for several weeks due to backlog of work.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Heat pumps and specifically AquaCals are more intricate then I feel comfortable troubleshooting. Have you tried contacting get manufacturer for a troubleshoot? Or to see if they can light a fire under the local installer to get out there faster?

  4. Keithers@advancedpoly.com Avatar

    My raypak heater is throwing a roll back code at me three years old. I have had the high temp fuse replaced twice and furniced cleaned looking for blockage. None found. What next?.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is the model number of your heater?

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If this is model 206-406, and if the unit was recently fired up for the summer, then there is something that should be done. Spiders sometimes get into the burners and leave sacks behind. The sacks are round and sticky, so cannot be sucked or blown out. Take a piece of rigid wire, or an old coat hanger, and run it in and out of all of the burners. This can be done WITHOUT removing the burner tray itself. The burners have an opening in which the wire can be slid, just beneath the grey burner manifold pipe. This should only take 5-10 minutes and should be part of a spring cleaning routine. After running the wire in and out of all of the burners, fire the heater and examine the flame. There should be a well defined 4-5” blue flame with a little orange at the tips. If all else is good (adequate gas pressure, no soot buildup, etc.) then this should solve the rollout issue.

  5. Joe Avatar

    I have a brand new Hayward 3000 btu pool heater. It light and fires up tgen shuts right back off

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Since it’s brand new, did you have the service company that installed it come back out to check the issue? Most new units experiencing a problem is usually an issue caused by the installation process. Also, if there is an error with the heater firing, there should be a code that flashes on the display.

    2. Mike.kohler58@gmail.com Avatar

      Joe, I have the exact same issue. Pool company said it was an igniter issue and ordered a new part. After replacing still had identical problem. Now saying it is the gas pressure. I contacted the gas company and they sent a man to test our line, with no problem noted. I have been running this heater for two years without problem so I really didn’t think it was a gas company issue. I tried calling Hayward direct and they said I needed a certified Hayward technician and they couldn’t diagnose over the phone. Funny the person I called originally was a Hayward technician. Maybe they need more training. If you figured out your problem I would appreciate the advice. Thanks, MIKE

      1. Justin Avatar

        Did you ever figure out your pool heater that would fire and go out. Mine is doing the same thing can not figure it out gas is ok ignition box, gas valve, Flame sensor all replaced. No help from company
        Thanks Justin

  6. Matt Avatar

    I just had a brand new Hayward H150 Natural Gas heater installed…. it is intermittently kicking out the LO code while the pump is running. It’ll run fine for 30 minutes, shut down because of the LO error, kick back on, rinse and repeat throughout the time we’re trying to use the heater. Filter PSI reads 11PSI (normal post-backwash PSI is around 10). I’ve tried having just the skimmer valve open, then tried both skimmer and main drain open at the same time… same issue comes up. Hayward support hasn’t been particularly helpful. Would love your thoughts!

  7. Chris T Avatar

    Sorry, I should have provided complete unit information.

    It is a Jandy Lite 2
    Model #: LG175N
    Manufactured: April 2008

  8. Chris T Avatar

    I have an old Jandy gas pool heater. Externally, it is in pristine condition because it’s located in my basement (not by choice, I bought the house that way).

    Very recently, the pool heater has been going on and off when the pool itself is OFF. It was happening again last night, and I had to turn the unit off manually. I then drained some water through the pressure relief valve that was literally hot enough to make tea.

    There is no backflow valve in the piping, but this unit has worked properly for the 9 years I’ve lived here. Any suggestions?

  9. Chad Loula Avatar

    Rypak 185B turns on, ignites and burner seems to be working well. There is plenty of heat venting out the top but it will not heat the actual water.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you checked for any corrosion or buildup within the heater exchanger? Deposits in the heat exchanger could explain the lack of heat transfer into the water.

    2. Thomas Avatar

      My temperature gauge won’t go up it go down but it won’t go up what could be the problem

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        My guess would be a bad temperature gauge, but it would help to know if you are getting any error codes and the model number of the heater. Ca

  10. Ross Avatar

    Raypak 106a. Turns on and clicks for a while trying to light, but never does. Clicks constantly trying to light for several minutes. Flow switch is good. Sensors have continuity. High limit is good. Gas line is clear.

    Thinking motherboard or gas valve. Easiest way to diagnose this?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Is the knob on the gas valve turned to ON? Was the air bled from the gas line?

      Check for 24volts at the pilot valve- red wire on gas valve. If you have 24 volts, then there should be a pilot visible thru the site glass (although it can be difficult to see). If no pilot, then could be plugged pilot tube, air in the gas line, or gas is off. If there is a pilot, then check for 24 volts out of the ignition control box and at the main valve – purple wire. If we have 24 volts out of the ignition control but not at the valve, then the wire or connections are bad. If we have 24 volts at the valve, then the valve could be bad or stuck. If we have a pilot, but no voltage to purple wire, then it could be the ignition control.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Bleed air from the gas line, then look to see if the pilot is lighting. If no pilot, confirm that gas in turned on at the shutoff and on the gas valve in the heater. If still no pilot, check for 24v on the red wire leading to the gas valve. If we have 24v on the red wire, then the pilot valve should be open. Confirm by disconnecting the pilot tube from the gas valve- when the heater is sparking, there should be gas coming out of that hole. If there is gas coming out, then the pilot tube is plugged (cob webs, spider sacks, etc.) and needs to be blown out or cleaned. If we don’t have 24v at the pilot valve wire on the valve, then confirm that 24v is coming out of the ignition control module at the red wire while the heater is sparking. WARNING HIGH VOLTAGE: DO NOT TOUCH THE HIGH TENSION SPARK WIRE ON THE IGNTION CONTROL WITH POWER TO THE HEATER. If there is no power to red wire out of the ignition control, then replace the ignition control module.

      If there is a pilot, but heater doesn’t fire, then check all of the wires and connections leading from the gas valve to the ignition control module (particularly the ground wire) for missing insulation, heat damage, etc . If okay, then check for 24v at the purple wire leading the gas valve (with pilot lit). If we have 24v at the purple wire then the heater should fire. If not, still air in the gas line, or a bad valve.

      If we don’t have 24v at the purple wire, then check for 24v out of the ignition control module. If no power out, then the ignition control is bad.

      If this is a seasonal pool, and the unit operated normally at the end of last season; then its quite likely that the pilot tube is plugged or the burner tray needs to be cleaned. Hope that this helps.

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