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The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems

Installing and troubleshooting a heater that is still under warranty without proper licensing can forfeit your warranty under the manufacturer’s terms and conditions. If your heater is out of warranty, sometimes, it’s simply cheaper to do it yourself. If you yourself in this scenario, this blog article is for you. In this blog article, we cover the most common swimming pool heater problems a pool owner might encounter and remedies to fix the issue.

My Heater Won’t Ignite

One of the most common problems with pool heaters is it failing to ignite.

Is your heater turned ON and the temperature set correctly?

  • Ensure that the thermostat is set to a higher temperature than the current water temperature.

Is your pump running with a clean filter and basket?

  • Inspect the pump and filter and clean if necessary.

Make sure that the pilot is lit (millivolt heaters).

  • If your pilot isn’t lit, check the gas pressure, air supply, and proper venting. Make sure the pilot tube is intact and not clogged. For MV heaters, if the pilot won’t stay lit, check the output on the thermocouple.

Is the gas supply valve in the ON position?

  • Without gas, the heater won’t operate. If the supply valve is OFF, turn it ON.

Are the plumbing and filter valves open?

  • Make sure to keep your valves open as to not prevent the water flow.

Low Water Flow

In order for a heater to operate smoothly and efficiently, it’s important that pool system maintains a consistent flow of water. Manufacturers equip swimming pool heaters with pressure sensors. These special sensors monitor and detect changes in water flow. For example, in some cases, you will see a “Low Water Flow” warning pop up on your heater’s LCD screen. Or, you might notice your heater isn’t pushing out as much warm water as it should or used to. Honestly, this is a very common occurrence. If you are experiencing low water flow, or your heater won’t start, ask yourself the following questions:

Have you cleaned your filter lately?

  • Monitor your PSI reading on your filter’s pressure gauge. If the PSI is too high, clean your filter.
  • Increasing pressure goes hand in hand with the decrease of water flow.

Is your pump basket dirty?

  • Check your pump’s strainer basket. Remove the basket and remove the debris with a hose.
  • Ensure the pump basket and lid are in good conditions. No cracks.

Do you have too many water features operating at once?

  • Your pool pump only moves a certain number of GPMs, therefore, too many water features can dramatically decrease your water flow.
  • If possible, replace the motor with a larger one.
  • Close water features, or alternate them, until the pool heats to the desired temperature.

Defective Pressure Sensor/switch (Most Common)

  • The purpose of the pressure switch is to ensure that water is flowing through the unit before it allows the heater to turn on.
  • The pool pump must be ON and your filter clean for the switch to close and allow voltage to pass through.
  • Test the voltage reading on the pressure switch with a multimeter.
  • Replace the pressure switch if necessary

Are you using the low settings on your variable speed pump?

  • For operation, heaters require a minimum GPM flow. If you are running your variable speed pump on the low setting, make sure you meet the minimum GPMs for your heater.

Pool Heater Turns ON and OFF (Cycles)

If your swimming pool heater is cycling ON and OFF, it is an early indication that the electrical connection or power supply is experiencing issues. However, it isn’t ALWAYS the case. There are other factors that can actively contribute to your heater’s ON and OFF cycles.

Is your pool water chemistry consistently and accurately balanced?

  • Poor water chemistry is one of the leading causes of equipment failure, especially pool heaters.
  • Test your water before adjusting your chemical levels. If unsure, please refer to the heater’s manual for the recommended chemical levels.

Have you inspected the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, and/or the high limit switch?

  • Inspect these parts for corrosion, scaling, and/or any electrolysis issues.
  • If the pressure sensor, thermal regulator, or high limit switch is faulty, corroded, or defective- replace it.

Have you cleaned your filter?

  • A dirty filter can cause low pressure and as a result, cause the heater’s pressure switch to turn OFF. A dirty filter can prevent a heater from firing and it can also cause your heater to shut off before warming the water to the desired temperature.

When’s the last time you have inspected and cleaned the heat exchanger?

  • Deterioration of the heat exchanger can impact your heater’s operation. Inspect your heat exchanger for chemical or sanitizer damage.

Pool Heater Isn’t Heating

Sometimes, your pool heater ignites but doesn’t reach the desired temperature. Or, maybe your heater isn’t generating heat at all. Both situations are very common.

Inspect your temperature sensor.

  • Make sure you have installed the temperature sensor correctly and it is in good condition.

Double check your thermostat settings

  • Set your thermostat to a higher temperature.

Did you properly size your pool heater?

  • If your heater is undersized, it will have problems heating your pool up. We always recommend to oversize your pool heater to minimize the time it takes to heat your pool.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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209 responses to “The Most Common Swimming Pool Heater Problems”

  1. Bob Vido Avatar

    Hi all.

    I have a Hayward pool heater (model #H250FDN). Over the past week, the heater fired up and heated just fine. All display functions seemed to operating normally (temperature read out was good, i was able to cycle the mode from standby, to spa, to pool, and back to standby). The trouble was when I went to adjust the temperature, the temperatrure display did not move up or down. This weekend, when I finally had time to work on it, I see there is no power to the display at all: no service light, no heater light, no light or display of any kind. I checked the breaker and it is fine. The switch to the heater is on. I had a spare display board and swapped it with the same result.

    Any thoughts on what I can do to further troubleshoot?

    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you have verified that the display board is not receiving power from the main PCB, and the heater is still receiving power from the breaker. I would presume the main PCB is dead. Hayward’s troubleshooting process relies a lot on flashing error codes, but they aren’t much help when either of the boards is out.

    2. Chris Avatar

      I have the same heater. The same thing is happening to me. My front display board doesn’t go on at all. Electric line is fine. Were you able to troubleshoot the problem??

    3. Kenya Anderson Avatar

      Hi Bob,
      I had this same problem. I had to purchase a new display board and cover (the part that we see). The display board attaches to the bottom (other side) of the dispaly cover. Once I replaced this I was able to see the lights again. Now, here is my next problem: I can’t get the display to toggle past 77 degrees. This is where my pool stops heating. My igniiton clicks, but then it fails to heat pas this point, sigh. I believe now it may be my thermostat. I’m going to work on this some more tomorrow. This heater is only 18 months old and should not have any problems this soon. I’ll keep you poste. I hope this helps.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        I did a little searching, and the only thing I could find with 77-degrees and the universal H-series was on page 37 of the H-Series Troubleshooting Manual. It may be a sensor issue but there should also be codes flashing as well.

        Looking forward to Kenya’s update.

        1. Jonathan B Sparks Avatar

          My MasterTemp 400 fails to work intermittently. All indicator lights go out and nothing I do makes them light up. Days later, they’re suddenly working again. Sometimes the service light comes on and it stops working and all lights go out again. Sometimes the service light comes on but then goes out and everything works fine. Do you think a new thermal regulator might be the answer?

          1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Is there a common thread between the times it does/doesn’t work? Has it just rained? Does it not restart after it’s been in heavy use? Does it not work on especially warm or cold days?

            Have you checked the circuit feeding the heater to make sure it is providing the proper voltage?

  2. Sabrina Avatar

    I have a Hayward H100ID that will not ignite. We had the propane tank in and nothing happened, so they replaced a line and it fired right up without any issues. I ran it for a half hour and went to turn it on the next day and now nothing again. It clicks, but will not light. All connections have been tested by an electrician with no issues also. Please help! I’m so frustrated.

    1. Larry Avatar

      I have a raypak 336A heater. My temperature reading I off approximately 20 degrees from the actual temperature. I replaced the temperature sensor and the circuit board. Neither fixed my problem. Other then the inaccurate temp the heater works fine

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Are there any codes being flashed on the screen? Raypak Heater Fault Code Guide

        1. Tony Avatar

          Heat wont stay on rums heat for a min or 2 than heat shuts off

          1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Okay, Tony, I will ask the same question to you as well. Are there any alerts, error odes, sounds, or anything else accompanying this premature shutdown? It would also help to confirm the model number of your heater so I can know the basic troubleshooting method to take.

            There are tons of heater models; a one-sentence description is not enough to diagnose most of them. Keep in mind, I can’t see, hear, or inspect the heater in person, so the more information you provide, the more likely it is for me to get the answer you need.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’m sure the electrician did his best on the circuitry, but when dealing with a heater, you probably want to have an HVAC company take a look at the unit. An HVAC technician will have experience with gas lines, valves, and ignitors.

  3.  Avatar

    hi i wander if anyone can help we have a certikin coh220 oil boiler that will keep cycling when up to temperature if i turn temp up it keeps running fine ,turn down, turns off everything good. just happens when gets to correct temperature.
    thanks for any help

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I am not familiar with oil-fired heaters. Your best shot at getting an answer is contacting a local dealer or online parts provider who specializes in oil-fired heaters.

  4. John Hildebrand Avatar

    I have a Pentair Heater. Pentair Mastertemp Heater 460736 400K BTU Natural Gas. What is happening is we will use the heater to heat up the spa. The spa is about 500+ gallons of water. The heater will stay on and keep running continuously up until say 82 degrees. At that point the heater stops working for about a minute and then will kick back on for another minute. This goes on and on until the heater finally meets it’s set temperature. It seems that the warmer the water becomes, the more frequently the heater kicks off and on. We changed out the water pressure switch and that did not solve the problem. Pentair 470190 Water Pressure Switch Replacement Pool and Spa Heater. Any suggestions?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are there any diagnostic LEDs lit or flashing? That would help go a long way in finding the solution.

      My first guess is a thermistor or control module issue. But that is just a guess until I have the above info.

      1. john hildebrand Avatar

        There are no diagnostics LEDs that flash. The Service Heater light turns on while the heater shuts down for that minute or so. Then the Service Heater lights goes off as the heater kicks on again.

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          Then it sounds like you need to have a tech come to take a look at it. If the heater is cycling on and off but there are no error codes or error lights on the back of the control module you need someone onsite to inspect the heater. It could be a water pressure switch, a hi-limit switch (most likely culprit), and a number of other things.

      2.  Avatar

        Pentair 350. Only 5 months old is leaking out the bottom

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          Unfortunately, neither one of us have x-ray vision. You have to open up the heater to find where the leak is coming from. It could be a header gasket that is causing the leak. There could be a defect in the heat exchanger caused by the manufacturing process or imbalanced water chemistry.

          On-site inspection is the key to troubleshooting.

    2. EJ Avatar

      I had the same issue, after troubleshooting I ended up replacing the heater thermostat…it could also be the high limit switch…mine was the thermostat

  5. John email: thebayshorecondos@gmail.com Avatar

    I have a Zodiac Jandy pool heat pump, model EE3000T. It developed a fitting leak on the outlet side of the heat exchanger. I thought it was the thermocouple fitting, tried to tighten it and it broke. Removed it and plugged the fitting hole. Leak stopped. Heat pump will not run as LED panel says no water flow. Later located the water temperature sensor. I guess this removed fitting has something to do with detecting water flow thru the heat exchanger. Have not tried to jury rig a fix as I have the broken fitting. Any additional thoughts?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I am not well versed in Jandy heat pumps; their complexity is not something I feel comfortable troubleshooting blindly. I suggest contacting the manufacturer to see if they will do a guided troubleshoot over the phone. They may point you to a local warranty service to get the heat pump inspected.

      1.  Avatar

        Hi,
        I have a Hayward Titanium Heat pro model HP21104t model heat pump. Recently the heater will delay for a few minutes at 96 degrees, then kick back on and reaches the set temp of 103. Any idea why the delay in the heater? Thanks!

  6. Anthony Avatar

    Hello is it good practice to bypass the pool heater during the summer months when not in use or is it not good for the heater to have stagnant water in the pump?

  7. John Avatar

    I have a Hayward H100ID. Everything works fine until after about 15 min, when the fan just blows cool air and there is no flame anymore. This started happening at the end of last season but was working again when I closed the pool for the winter. It has been working fine all spring until now. Again, I am experiencing the same issue from last fall. Any thoughts?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are there any other signs when the heater shuts down? How long after the flame goes out does the blower run? Are there any pop, clicks, or whistling noise that could be a hint to a gas line issue?

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      LO – Water Pressure Switch, Vent Pressure Switch, or Temperature Limit Switch Fault

      This could be as simple as your filter was dirty, which constricted flow to the heater, or you would have to troubleshoot the various switches. If the LO code still pops up after cleaning the filter, refer to the below troubleshooting info:

      h100id lo troubleshooting
      h100id lo troubleshooting 2

  8. John Avatar

    I have a Hayward pool heater and just replaced heat exchanger. All wire were put back as they were. The heater works the SHUTS off given a LO ERROR. I clean the filter. What can cause this. How do I check the pressure control

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      LO – Water Pressure Switch, Vent Pressure Switch, or Temperature Limit Switch Fault

      If the LO code still pops up after cleaning the filter, refer to the below troubleshooting info:

      https://i.imgur.com/ST4j2WL.jpg
      https://i.imgur.com/ekjn2ut.jpg

  9. Trey Avatar

    Hello. I have a Hayward Easy Temp heater. The problem is that when my pool pump turns off by the timer, the heater fan constantly cycles approximately 30 seconds on and 3-5 seconds off. The compressor does not engage, just the fan. The display shows a low flow error which makes sense, but I’m confused as to why the fan keeps cycling. Thank you.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Is the water to temp when the pump shuts off? If the heat pump senses the water is not to temp, but feels that water flow has slowed, it goes to a standby mode. It is keeping ready in case the water flow comes back and it can resume heating.

  10. Paul Abrilla Avatar

    I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold.

    Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting.

    someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that’s the water temp).

    When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn’t opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there’s strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back.

    I also noticed that I couldn’t completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again.

    Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. Water has always been in tip top shape. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. Water
    In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that?

    Thanks for your advise.

    Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines.

    https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU

    https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg

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