Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Charlie Ramirez

October 23, 2024

7 Minute Read

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
You have too much salt in your pool.
The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Troubleshooting Topics

Controls / Automation

Chlorinators

Skimmers / Drains

Need Replacement Parts?

Swimming Pool Products

325 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

Ken

September 13, 2017

None of my LED’s are lit, but I can read the diagnostic screen when I push the button. Just had water tested at my local pool store and FAC and TAC are at 4ppm and salt is 3500ppm.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 14, 2017
  
  I’m not sure if I am following your question in there.
  
  But even the Power LED is not coming on? If your cell is creating chlorine, it seems like a display board issue.
  
  Reply
  1. Art
    
    September 29, 2018
    
    Matthew – I am having the same issue as above. Turn the pool on, the flow indicator blinks for 2 minutes or so, then goes out like normal. The Generating light comes on and remains on for 15 – 30 seconds, then goes off. No indicator lights remain on, but I can go through all screens on the diagnostics LCD so I believe there is power. I did open it up and checked the fuse and it looked fine, no indication of it being blown. Any thoughts on how to remedy?
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      October 2, 2018
      
      I would revert to my previous answer. Is chlorine still being produced? If so, it is a problem you can live with. If the cell isn’t working then you need to try cleaning/troubleshooting the cell to determine if the issue is there or lies in the control board.
      
      Reply
      1. Chris
        
        October 7, 2018
        
        I’m having this exact problem. Yes there is chlorine in the pool. The one thing I’ll add it that my power and generating light both come on for about 15 seconds while it appears the system is checking for the current salt level. At the completion of the check, which is about 15 seconds, it shows “-0” and then it clicks, and all lights turn off. This process happens every 1-3 minutes, continuously.
      2. Matthew Simmons
        
        October 8, 2018
        
        What is your AquaRite’s amp and volt reading? As the guide above says, it is an important thing to know for diagnosing.
    2. jay cory
      
      October 19, 2018
      
      current limiter out
      
      Reply
    3. jay cory
      
      October 19, 2018
      
      that round black disk is current limiter squese flat sides see if power light comes on if yes current limiterbad
      
      Reply
      1. Jacob Gregory
        
        March 18, 2019
        
        Hey Jay this seems to be the issue on my system when i squeezed the sides they lights came on for 15-20 secs before going out again. Do you know if you can replace just the limiter?
      2. Matthew Simmons
        
        March 19, 2019
        
        Yes, the current limiter can be replaced. You can find the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey.
      3. Bret Bobeck
        
        June 7, 2020
        
        The round disk piece separated on mine. I was able to spray CRC QD Electric Cleaner between the two pieces and press the two pieces back together. Everything lights up now. Wow, that was cheap!
      4. Matthew Simmons
        
        September 21, 2020
        
        Are you referring to the current limiter? If so, that part is a few dollars at most hardware stores; I would rather buy a new current limiter than risk gluing one back together.
    4. Den
      
      May 29, 2019
      
      Its a heat sync issue you can buy them yourself and if you know how to solder replace it yourself for under 50 cents unless you want to pay around $300 for aq pool guy to come out and replace your card and then make his money. Your choice.
      
      Reply
    5. Kurt
      
      May 29, 2019
      
      Same here. What did you do?
      
      Reply
    6. Todd
      
      June 25, 2019
      
      Anyone find a solution for this? I have the exact same problem as Art.
      
      Reply
      1. Sue
        
        July 11, 2019
        
        We replaced the thermister. 6 dollar part. Works perfectly now.
      2. Bert
        
        September 12, 2019
        
        I had the same issue and after reading this blog, I bought a 2 pack of the current limiter part # 570-1062NG and soldered on in place of the bad one, took 15m to complete, problem solved, everything work perfect.
        
        Thanks.
    7. Ryan
      
      June 21, 2020
      
      Most likely your current limiter. I had the same problem, and this fixed it immediately. Symptoms were the same. It cost like $2.50 for a new one. I pulled mine out and it fell apart in my hands. Resoldered it, and works like a champ now. Soooo much better than being told you need a new control board for $350+. Even if you spend the $2.50 to try it you always have the fallback option, and only lost a few dollars. I am 90% sure this is the issue though.
      
      Reply
  2. Tanya Nichols
    
    August 8, 2020
    
    My display is reading pcb, can’t reset board. Cant find this issue . can’t reset display, check salt level, check cell, which is new. I need to knkw whats the probable issur?
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      August 24, 2020
      
      The PCB is the issue. You need to replace the main PCB which is the GLX-PCB-RITE for the AquaRite
      
      Reply
2. Anonymous
  
  February 24, 2018
  
  Did u ever find a solution? I’m having g the same problem.
  
  Reply
3. Dave
  
  June 25, 2018
  
  same problem here Ken did you find out whats happening with it
  
  Reply
4. Jeff
  
  July 10, 2018
  
  Sounds like a bad controller board….
  
  Reply
  1. Chris
    
    September 14, 2018
    
    Same problem!
    
    Any fix for that issue?
    
    Reply
  2. Jeff
    
    June 6, 2019
    
    Replaced both the main board twice and the display board, lights go on for 30 seconds then all goes out except for he display, pool now not generating any chlorine
    
    Reply
    1. Elias
      
      May 25, 2020
      
      Hi Jeff,
      
      Did you ever find a solution for this problem? I’m having the same exact issue. I changed the motherboard and the LCD display and I have no lights on. Checked every power line and the fuse with a Voltage detector and all is being powered properly.
      
      Reply
5. Tereaa
  
  November 27, 2020
  
  I had a new pool liner put in. Turned on my Hayward salt system and the generating light is not on. It has been 72 hrs.
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    December 3, 2020
    
    Have you gotten the water tested to confirm the salt level is correct? Also, did you do any of the diagnostics checks mentioned in the article?
    
    Reply
JWF

October 2, 2017

this is really really helpful. my local rep never told me about some of these calibration procedures. i asked him “there must be a calibration that needs to happen every once in a while with these cells” and he said no not really. ugh. =(

Reply
Rik Thomas

May 13, 2018

The voltage indicator says it is 32.3 volts in the manual says it will not produce if over 30 volts what causes the high voltage and how do I repair it

Reply
1. Rob McLintock
  
  May 14, 2018
  
  Hello Rik – Unless the AquaRite is set to run at 100%, it would be normal to occasionally see a 32.3 voltage rating. For example, the Aquarite will only generate chlorine half the time the pump is running when the salt system is set on 50%. It would give you a 32.3 reading if you checked it at a time when it was not creating chlorine. Is the Aquarite still producing chlorine?
  
  Reply
  1. Christina
    
    July 3, 2018
    
    Hi there. One of my customers has a new salt system put in a a couple months back by their previous pool serivce. He never put salt in. So when she hired me I put the required amount of bags I
    Of salt in her pool. The following week the reading was at 3600. CYA, PH, Alk were spot on. Then one week
    Later (today) the pool was green!!! A swamp! And when I tested it with my Taylor test kit and salt meter is showed no chlorine no salt but the salt is reading 3800 on the display. Checked amps and to make sure it was programmed to the correct cell. All seems good. It’s Brand new Hayward system. Help????
    
    Reply
    1. Christina
      
      July 3, 2018
      
      Jeez. Sorry for all the typos. Guess I should have proof read this.
      
      Reply
    2. Tried and True
      
      July 4, 2018
      
      Make sure the Cel model is properly set in panel. T-5, T-15, etc
      If the sand filter is filthy, there is not enough salt to clean.
      Do a back flush then a super chlorination. Leave it alone
      It will stop at 24 hrs.
      
      Reply
    3. Bob
      
      January 31, 2019
      
      Your salt level at 3800 is too high. The system will stop producing chlorine when salt levels are above 3400. The Hi Salt LED should be on when the system is running telling you the salt level is too high. You need to drain the pool some and then add water to lower the salt level.
      
      Reply
Mike

May 15, 2018

Hi ,
I just opened my pool and added salt according to the pool tech advice. I will test the water in a few days to see if I need to add more salt. My salt level is low (2000) and the check cell and salt level light is on which I’m assuming is normal because the salt is low. My question is, should the generating light be on? because its off. wondering if its off because the salt level is low or is there something wrong with my cell. Is the generating light always suppose to be on?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 17, 2018
  
  The generator can’t efficiently create chlorine with low salt, so the control panel does not turn the cell on. If the cell isn’t on, then the generating light will not be lit.
  
  The short of it is, add salt.
  
  Reply
Clinton Bradley

May 18, 2018

My average salt reading is 2700 but the instant is -5300! What does that mean?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 21, 2018
  
  This is the explanation of Instant salt:
  
  INSTANT SALT LEVEL – The salt level that the System is calculating during the chlorination cycle. A “-” symbol is place in front of the number to distinguish it from the Average Salt Level. Measured in ppm or grams/Liter depending on units of measure setting.
  
  Did you just pour in new salt?
  
  Reply
2. Bob
  
  January 31, 2019
  
  How old is your salt cell? 3-5 years is a typical age. Actually, if you get 5 years out of one, you are doing pretty good. Old, worn out salt cells will indicate erroneous high salt levels. The only way to know for sure is to test the water. TIP: Your local pool supply store will test the water for free but IMO, too often they get it wrong. Invest in a good test kit (i.e. Taylor) and do it yourself, it is very easy and will pay for itself over time. The best way to know if your system is generating chlorine is to check the voltage and current displays on the controller box front panel. Per a Hayward technician I talked to, around 25-27 volts and 4-7 amps is typical when the system is generating chlorine. Keep in mind that with the % dial set at anything less than 100%, they system will turn on and off. When it is off, and not generating chlorine, the voltage will be around 31-32 volts and the current will be zero. When you first turn on your pump and the system is up and running is the best time to check the voltage and current levels. He also told me that it is a good idea to write down the numbers when the salt cell is brand new. When the salt cell gets old and worn out the numbers (especially current will change. The current typically goes down when the cell gets old. It is a good idea to learn how to use and read the front panel display and LED’s. It tells a lot about the health of the system.
  
  Reply
John Farlowe

May 20, 2018

My salt reading is reading very low 1,2 but sure there is salt reset the unit now reads 000 any ideas change the cell ??

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 21, 2018
  
  Can you clarify your question? I am having trouble understanding it.
  
  Reply
  1. Haiduo
    
    May 23, 2018
    
    Hi Mat,
    If the salt level by kit test is 3200 and I did not Recalibrate The Average Salt Level, what will happen? I mean, will the system work? What is the purpose of the Recalibrate The Average Salt Level?
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      May 24, 2018
      
      If you turn on your AquaRite system, are there any alerts, alarms? Also, is it producing chlorine normally?
      
      if the system is working, I would just let it work until there is an actual cause for concern, i.e. low chlorine levels, water turning green, control unit alerts.
      
      Reply
      1. Haiduo
        
        May 25, 2018
        
        Thanks. Everything is OK except that the salt level shown is different from salt test. Then I just let it go until there is an actual cause for concern.
Tracy

May 23, 2018

My board is telling me check salt, check cell. I have cleaned my cell well put it back on and reset my board. It said power, generating, chlorinating and then about 3 min later, check cell, check salt light came back on. Could this mean that my cell is bad? I have been looking for a cell replacement. I have Hayward T-cell -5 now and I am not finding that same cell? is there any cell compatible with my cell?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 24, 2018
  
  But did you actually check the salt levels of your water? if your salt levels are low the cell can’t operate. At least rule this possibility out by checking the water chemistry at the local pool store with a free test.
  
  We carry the TCELL5
  
  Reply
  1. Renee
    
    May 26, 2018
    
    Matt,
    We are having the same issue. Check salt and inspect cell light staying on. Just replaced t-15 cell, same issue again.Salt level has come up to 2200. Can we shock the pool with chorline to help? This is the first issue we have had in 6 years 😬
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      May 31, 2018
      
      The Aquarite manual and the troubleshooting guide is clear when it says the unit needs 3200 ppm to operate optimally.
      
      Unless I am missing something, it sounds like both of you need to add salt.
      
      Reply
    2. Josh W
      
      June 13, 2018
      
      Hey guys! For those of you having issues after you replace the cell with low salt readings, check cell etc.
      
      I had the same issue and couldn’t find a solution but it seems to be as simple as setting the cell type on the unit.
      
      It was showing that I had T-3 cell when in fact I have a T-15. Once I changed the type on the panel, boom, working well.
      
      Somehow the panel reset the type and I missed it and thought it was automatic. Almost called the company to yell at them for sending the wrong cell.
      
      Hope this helps some of you.
      
      Reply
      1. Matthew Simmons
        
        June 14, 2018
        
        And for instructions on how to reset the cell, Step 9 on this guide: How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
        Thanks, Josh.
      2. Anonymous
        
        September 25, 2018
        
        How do you reset that?
Brent

May 24, 2018

Hi Matt,

When my cell is plugged into the control panel, the power light, generating light and super chlorinator light shut off after about 5 seconds. When I unplug the salt cell plug from the control panel, all lights stay illuminated. Thoughts other than my cell is bad? Can I fix it or if it’s dirty would it shut off???

Thanks

Reply
1. James
  
  May 26, 2018
  
  This is exactly what I am seeing. After working for years, suddenly I am having haze issues this year. If I flip the breaker to the system and then reset it, it works perfectly – it flashes no flow for the usual time (30 seconds?) then decides all is good and tells me it is generating… for about 5-10 seconds. Then the generating LED shuts off, and it won’t register no flow or anything else unless I reset the breaker again.
  
  Cell is clean, flow is good.
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    May 31, 2018
    
    It may be a board issue but anything I say would be a guess. I suggest you contact Hayward to see if they can point you in a solid direction. Hayward tech support can be reached at 908-355-7995
    
    Reply
    1. Jeff
      
      May 16, 2019
      
      Hi. I just replaced both the board and display board on my system and the lights on the right side do not stay lit, It starts as no flow. Then went to generations then goes blank, the display reads all functions, the salt cell was replaced last. Season.
      
      Reply
      1. Matthew Simmons
        
        May 17, 2019
        
        What boards did you use to replace the originals? Were they OEM replacement board or Pureline aftermarket?
      2. Jeff
        
        June 6, 2019
        
        Replaced with original Hayward parts
  2. Andy Gallagher
    
    June 13, 2018
    
    Did you ever solve this issue or determine the cause. I’m having the exact same issue.
    
    Reply
  3. Ryan
    
    August 22, 2018
    
    Any resolution here? Having the same issue.
    
    Reply
Anonymous

May 24, 2018

when i opened my pool this year the console would light up but does not show any words such as salt level and so on. what would cause that?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 24, 2018
  
  That sounds like a bad AquaRite display board. We carry two options as replacements: Aqua Rite Replacement Display PCB Board (GLX-PCB-DSP) OEM version or Aftermarket version.
  
  How to Replace an Aqua Rite Display PCB
  
  Reply
Chad

May 24, 2018

My qua Rite is reading very low salt, 300 ppm. I had it checked and it is low, but at 1500ppm. I tired to calibrate several times, but I never get the countdown. When I follow the steps it just shows 000 on the screen. It never actually starts at a higher number then starts a countdown. What do I do now?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 31, 2018
  
  Since your salt is too low, first, I would address that. Get out your owner’s manual, pull up the salt chart. Add the right amount of salt. No use in fiddling with the cell when you don’t have enough salt in the water for it to operate properly.
  
  Reply
2. Wayne
  
  August 23, 2020
  
  The message screen is saying “no power to cell inspect system”. I’ve checked everything I know how to check to no avail. Any suggestions. Wcives44@aol.com
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    August 24, 2020
    
    What is the make and model of your salt system? Because the AquaRite does not have that error message.
    
    Reply
Ganesh

May 25, 2018

i replaced main circuit board (GLX-PCB-RITE) last year and this year i put a brand T-15cell. my generator lcd is always showing 0, i cannot run diagnostics, power led is ON, no flow led flashes initially once flow is detected it would turn off. i checked my board again but nothing seems wrong to naked eye. Inspect cell led wont come on even if i remove the cell from control panel.so im concerned whether the circuit board has gone bad again. any advise

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 31, 2018
  
  The only thing you haven’t replaced is the AquaRite Display Board. Before I go tell you to replace that too, you should probably call Hayward for some troubleshooting. They should be able to give you a confirmation what is wrong, pretty easily. Hopefully, it is a cheaper fix than a different board.
  
  Reply
Albert

May 28, 2018

I have a T-9 cell , I the check salt and inspect cell light comes on I brought the T-9 to pool store they said it’s working good also my salt levels at the pool store said good readings I reset because it shows low salt and it works fine for a bit then the lights come on again ?? why is it not working properly>?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 28, 2018
  
  Have you tried recalibrating you AquaRite salt levels?
  
  Reply
2. Jimmy
  
  June 6, 2018
  
  I’m having the same issue. My pool started to get cloudy last night, and a little greenish. The Aquarite panel reads 1800. The pool company tested the water today, and they said my salt level was actually closer to 4000! Anyways, my check salt and inspect cell lights are both staying on, despite attempts to recalibrate the system. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    June 7, 2018
    
    Have you tried cleaning the cell? How old is the cell?
    
    If it is older than 3 years, than it could be an issue with the cell. That means you would need a new cell.
    
    Reply
    1. Jimmy
      
      June 12, 2018
      
      Cleaned the cell properly and it’s back to working properly!
      
      Reply
      1. Matthew Simmons
        
        June 18, 2018
        
        Nice!
Brendan

May 30, 2018

My Aquarite T-9 has a no flow light on, so its not producing. Also, the volts reads 30.5, amps reads 0.00 The salt level is 3700, the instant is -0.00. I looked at the flow sensor, it looks ok to me. Any ideas on why its not producing? The system is only 2 years old.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 31, 2018
  
  From the article above:
  
  If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
  
  Reply
  1. Ted
    
    June 1, 2018
    
    My Aquarite shows check salt, check cell lights on, reading was 700. Cleaned the cell, it worked for a day. When the pump cycled back on the next day, the same symptoms check salt, check cell light on this time with no generating light on and reading 1600. Had the salt level checked by pool supply was 3200. Replaced the cell with the same type that was removed Hayward T15, 40,000 gal. After a day of what appeared to be normal operation, once the pump cycled off for the day and back on the next morning the same symptoms reappeared. The check salt, check cell lights on and generating light off. Went through all the troubleshooting diagnostics able to get the check salt, check cell lights off and the generator light on, seemed normal again. Had the salt level checked again at the pool supply still in the same range 3300. Decided to clean the pool and after backwashing the no flow light illuminated with inspect cell light on and generating light off, (first time the no flow light has ever been on during all this trouble, except for when the replacement cell was first installed and pump running during the initial start up) I understand that when the no flow light is on that the generator light will remain off. Played around with the control panel and all the lights started working as normal, only the power and generating lights were On. Once again after the pump cycles off and back on the next day the check salt, check cell lights on with the generating light off and the reading display shows 1600. Please advise.
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      June 1, 2018
      
      Maybe try this more in-depth AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide can help. But if that doesn’t work then you should contact the manufacturer. Their techs know the product better than anyone else out there. Hayward Tech Support line: 908-355-7995
      
      Reply
    2. Keith
      
      July 5, 2018
      
      Ted, did you get a solution. I have a new pool and am experiencing something similar or perhaps the same. t-3 cell. I recalibrate and all is well. When variable pump either shuts off or lessens flow it seems to screw everything up. readings go lower and I believe salt level to be fine based upon tests at pool company and strips.
      
      Reply
  2. Anonymous
    
    June 4, 2018
    
    So my amps are reading 0 so I need a new PC board. Does it matter that my display cycle doesn’t show my t-cell number at all? It goes from the r1.45 to the salt reading.
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      June 5, 2018
      
      If your board is bad then it probably is going to show some other odd values as well.
      
      The issue should be corrected by the new board.
      
      Reply
      1. Bill S
        
        June 10, 2020
        
        Could this possibly be an older Mineral Springs system? I have an original before Hayward bought them and I have no ability to set the T-cell type.
      2. Matthew Simmons
        
        September 10, 2020
        
        If your salt system is 2010 or earlier (I think), the control panels can not be set to accept the various Turbo Cells. When the Mineral Springs, AquaRite, SwimPure plus, and whatever else they rebranded it as were first introduced, only the TCELL15 was available.
      3. Hal
        
        September 18, 2020
        
        I think the “older than 2010 uses T15 is incorrect? I have an older system with r 1.45 firmware version. Is uses the GLX Cell 5 and seems to work fine. We just bought the house and the previous owner may have replaced with the wrong cell I guess but…seems to work ok.
      4. Matthew Simmons
        
        September 21, 2020
        
        If you need to identify a specific pool model, check out our article titled Identify My Above Ground Pool. Or, email us at agparts@inyopools.com
Chris Ammann

June 1, 2018

My aqua rite unit will turn on the power, generating and superchlorinate LEDs (in that mode) then after maybe 30 seconds I hear relays click and all the LEDs turn off. If in normal mode it does the same with just the power and generate leds. My chlorine has dropped to almost 0 so I’m assuming that means it isn’t running. Display always reads 3400 and never turns off. Any ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated

Reply
1. Chris Ammann
  
  June 1, 2018
  
  Forgot to mention, it does this in a continuous loop, lights come on, clicks, go off. Display always reads 3400
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    June 3, 2018
    
    That is a laundry list of problems. It is probably the main board, but I would check with Hayward to be sure.
    
    Reply
2. Dana Donlon
  
  July 24, 2018
  
  I am having the same problem did you ever find out what was wrong.
  
  Reply
Tanya

June 14, 2018

Hi I need some help. Got the Aqua Trol last year worked great. This year turned on and the Check Tcell and Check salt light solid and display was hard to read. Got hold of Hayward they sent new tcell and display I installed and ran system for 24 hours. Can see display but I am still getting check Tcell and Salt light solid. Getting so frustrated as my pool guy is not helping me at all and I would have to pay if I have different guy come out and take a look.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 14, 2018
  
  Have you tested your water’s salinity level? If so, what is result? If your salt level is actually low, that could be a cause of the problem persisting.
  
  Reply
John Stucky

June 15, 2018

Mike, I have a strange one. My awful right was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3500 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2600. I have a strange one. My swim pure T-9 was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3400 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2400. The cell amperage seems to confirm this because it only shows 5.17 amps which is low for a T-9. I clean my cell monthly. Otherwise the system seems to be operating normal and all the other diagnostics are correct. Any ideas? Do you know if the high salt alarm is tied to the amperage for the cell? In other words can I keep adding salt until it is the actual correct salt level without causing the swim pure to stop working? As long as the amperage doesn’t go to high I should be ok? Thanks!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 15, 2018
  
  Hello Jim, I would add enough salt to get the water into the 2700 to 3400 ppm range and see what happens. If it doesn’t work then you can drain and add fresh water pretty easily.
  
  But to be honest, I am a little confused because you mentioned two different units and two different salinity level problems. Also, that you said that the cell was not producing in the beginning, but then said you don’t want it to stop working by the end.
  
  Reply
  1. John S.
    
    June 15, 2018
    
    Mathew. My apologies for the phone issues! Here is what is going on:
    Swim pure plus system with a T-9 cell. It is not producing chlorine like it should. The Swim pure says that the water already has 3500 salt but when I had it tested locally it only had 2400. I now understand why cell isn’t producing because it doesn’t have enough salt but the swim pure is incorrectly showing a reading of 3500. I’ve already tried re calibrating the salt cell but it still is reading high. I am afraid that if I put enough salt to get the real salt reading up to 2700-3400 that the swim pure will shut down because it thinks the salt level is too high. I read somewhere that the salt reading on the display is calculated from the amp reading from the salt cell. On mine, the T9 is amp reading is low–only 5.17 and it should be 6.5. Very strange deal. You are probably right, the only thing I can do is keep adding salt until the physical salt is correct and see if the system continues to operate. Does that make more sense? Thanks!
    
    Reply
John Stucky

June 15, 2018

I forgot to mention that I have already tried calibrating the salt cell. I hope what I said above makes sense. My phone was acting up. Thanks!

Reply
Dennis Duncan

June 15, 2018

My unit stop working, no led’s at all. I replaced the transformer, had main board repaired and replaced the indicator board. Still no lights at all, although I can hear the transformer’s quiet normal hum now. Even the plug that operates my pump doesn’t work. But the pump will come on when I use any other source of power. This is driving me crazya

Reply
Joe

June 15, 2018

Just installed a new pool and running my chlorinator for the first time.. we balanced the chemicals and added salt. I have a t 3 cell and my numbers creeped from 2800 to 3700 I had the dial at 5 ppm and chloromator is still generating. Why has it not shut down ?

Thank you,

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 18, 2018
  
  When you add the salt it takes time for it to dissolve completely into solution. This may be the reason for your slow creep up to 3700 ppm. The cell would keep generating until it hits the 5 ppm setting, it is probably still running because it has not reached that mark. Also, 5 ppm is high for a salt pool. I would set it to 2 or 3
  
  Reply
  1. Joe
    
    June 18, 2018
    
    Thank you for the quick response. When I said 5 ppm I was trying to say 5 %output on the dial. When satisfied would the unit stay on stand and not generate ? I have been running it for 8hours a day since Saturday and pool is still saying 3700. Having trouble understanding how to maintain the right range.
    
    Any help would be great.
    
    Thank you,
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      June 19, 2018
      
      The cell would stay on even while it is not generated, but the “Generating” light wouldn’t be lit. When you have it set to 5% production, that means in any given hour the cell would only be active for 3 minutes.
      
      If the salt reading is accurate, then it is not going to go down unless you drain a portion of the water. Get your water tested by a local pool company to confirm the salinity level. Proper salinity levels for an AquaRite is 2700 to 3400 ppm.
      
      Reply
Anonymous

June 16, 2018

Hi, our Hayward AquaTrol is about 7 years old and it’s suddenly having a problem. We’re getting the Generating LED briefly flashing and then turning off. No lights at all on the display and it’s definitely not generating chlorine. Pump is running and we do have flow. We’ve already checked the fuse and all is fine. Help!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 17, 2018
  
  When was the last time you cleaned the cell? How do the plates looks, any scaling?
  
  Reply
Hendrik

June 18, 2018

have an aqua rite controller and T9 cell that does not seem to be generating. The salt level on the display was low so I added salt but when I checked the salt level with test strips it showed a value around 6000 ppm! Now the display shows a level of 100 ppm even after cleaning the cell (which btw was not visibly diirty at all). Is the cell ready for replacement? Does this value of 100 mean something? Any help is appreciated.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 18, 2018
  
  Yes, it sounds like your TCell is ready to be replaced. The only thing that I could think of that would show 100 on the board is “100 P” which is referencing to the board being set at 100% production.
  
  Reply
Stella

June 20, 2018

We have an aqua rite t-cell 15. Salt level has been tested professionally and it is a little over 3000 ppm. However, even after re-calibrating the cell to that reading level, the reading keeps going down gradually, over a period of a few hours, until it reaches about 2300 at which point it stops generating. We have repeated this process several times over the past week and it continues to do the same thing. Does this mean cell replacement?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 20, 2018
  
  Correct, the cell is the issue in this equation. Replace it, and the system should return to operating normally.
  
  Reply
Sean

June 21, 2018

I’m having a no chorine generating issue.
When I first flip the pump on readings are
1500 salt
90degrees
28volts
.78-.90amps!
O
Then it will switch off turning check cell and low salt light on. Had the salt tested and is at 3300 does this sound like a bad cell or a board issue with the extremely low amps?

Reply
Nancey

July 3, 2018

Hi. My salt machine says no flow then shuts down. All the lights go off even power. I turn it back on and it just does the same think. I ve checked the connections. It’s all good. Nothing obstructing. Can you please help. What could it be. It reads that my salt is at 2700. Could that be the problem? But the check salt does not come on. Only power and blinking no flow then it shuts down.

Thanks.

Reply
Byron

July 4, 2018

I have an Aqua Rite system with a T cell 15. When pushing the diagnostic button it comes to a R 1.45 then back to salt number. It never displays the T cell number. Is something wrong with the Cell or system? Unit installed in 2009. Also what is R 1.45. is this number correct? It also has AL – 1. Is this correct? Thanks

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 6, 2018
  
  The R1.45 is the firmware revision.
  
  Usually, if the T-Cell value does not show up in the menu it is because it is not plugged in properly. Check the cable connections
  
  Reply
  1. Mike
    
    July 9, 2018
    
    I’ve got a Aqua Rite with firmware R1.40 and mine doesn’t dhow the T cell number either. I think since only the T-15 was supported on versions earlier than R1.50 the there was no reason to have that display option in the firmware.
    
    Reply
Jay

July 10, 2018

Matthew, How does one know when the Hayward AquaRite control box for the salt generator has reached the end of it’s life?
Thanks,

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 19, 2018
  
  The control box has three major components, the main PCB, display board and the transformer. If after the troubleshooting you realize that you need to replace two of the three major parts of the control box, then it is likely better to replace the box.
  
  Reply
Gerald

July 15, 2018

Hi I have an aqua plus system with T15 Cell, cell and main board have been replaced recently. The unit will start normally and chlorinate but after 20 minutes it will shut down and new cycle would not start, i have to manually do diagnostics and start the new cycle. I have run system in both + and – and runs fine but after that it will not re start. Salt is 3100, flow is on, no temperature issues, and no warning lights. whwn is on it works but once it goes int a new cycle it will not start to Chlorinate.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 17, 2018
  
  I’ve never heard of that issue? Have you tried refitting the board? Just a confirmation the issue is not stemming from an error during the installation?
  
  Reply
John

July 24, 2018

I’m getting no chlorine out of my system despite new equipment.

New GLX-PCB-RITE circuit board and new T-15 cell.
All chemicals are balanced within range.
Pool store shows salt love is 2900.
My Readouts are:
> 3300
> 75 degrees
> 26.5 volts
> 6.29 amps
> 80%
> -3300
> AL-1
> r 1.59
> t-15
>
> Ran the system overnight at 80%. Chlorine in
> pool remained zero.
> Ran the system overnight on Superchlorinate.
> Chlorine in pool remained zero and Superchlorinate indicator remained
> lit even after 12 hours.
>
> What am I missing?
Thanks

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 2, 2018
  
  If you have an AquaRite, the AL-1 should be an AL-0. Try changing that value.
  
  Reply
Carlos

July 24, 2018

I’ve just replaced my T-3 cell and the current limiter on the PCB as I was having problems with the system turning on and off repeatedly. Now I get the Power and the Generating LED’s on for as long as I have the system running. The salt level is reading 3700 (a bit high but apparently not enough to shut the system down), voltage and amp are within range, everything seems to be fine but after running the system on superchlorinate overnight and another 8 hours on 100%, I’m still getting zero chlorine. What can possibly be wrong?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 2, 2018
  
  What is your water chemistry? CYA, Phosphates, pH, Alkalinity etc. These are all things that are required knowledge when solving these issues.
  
  Reply
Jordan

July 27, 2018

Hi there, I have a Hayward Goldline Aquatrol. I’ve cleaned the cell, recalibrated the salt levels to match the salt levels from the pool store (3200ppm) and all my chemical levels are perfect.
The problem is that the check cell and check salt lights remain on. The displays read zero for my salt level (both readings, average and instint) and amp reads zero. Nothing seems to work, thanks.

Reply
Graham

August 1, 2018

Hayward Aqua Rite with T3 cell. All lights function as normal. All amps and voltages are within range, but when I test for Chlorine, none there. Any ideas?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 2, 2018
  
  What is your CYA level? Has there been heavy rain or pool parties recently?
  
  Try shocking the pool and switching the system to super chlorinate.
  
  Reply
Gene

August 8, 2018

Our system seems to be working properly in all aspects, except when we test our chlorine level it is very low if any at all. We’ve replaced cell recalibrated with no Success. We’ve had the system working fine for three years. This is an indoor pool that stays open year around. The pool also has heavy traffic. Up till this point we’ve never had a problem. Like I said all levels are within the ranges they should be brand new t 15 and controller set to t 15 any help would be appreciated.

Our cya is between 0 and 30 and our manual states that 0 ppm is ideal. Is it possible that even though our controller isn’t showing any faults it may need to be replaced?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 13, 2018
  
  The CYA for a salt pool should be around 50-80, 0-30 is way too low. Your chlorine is being burned off because there isn’t enough CYA to protect it from the sun.
  
  Reply
  1. Robert
    
    September 16, 2018
    
    Truer words have not been posted regarding the Hayward salt systems and pool water in general, regardless of the type.
    
    I have found 60ppm is the sweet spot and keeps js away from sliding into the non-effective range of 90 ppm, where the chlorine becomes ineffective.
    
    I tell my client’s, the stabilizer is sunscreen for your pool’s water but too much of it isn’t a good thing.
    
    I have also found no two T15’s are the same.
    
    I have one client whose system is very robust and can handle 3400 ppm like a champ and I don’t have to turn the system off when adding 80 lbs of salt to it when it dips down to 2900 ppm.
    
    I also have another client less than 3 miles away from the one above that can’t go over 3200 ppm and I have to shut the cell off and let it run 24 hrs before firing it back up and can only put 40 lbs in at a time.
    
    Less I want to blow the board/chip.
    
    I do believe Hayward has addressed this issue with the new series they came out with, nonetheless.
    
    Good solid advice Matthew.
    
    Reply
Dan Robinson

August 21, 2018

Matt – I replaced my t9 cell with a new T9 this spring. I just checked my chlorine and levels are zero! I’m looking at the panel and the power and generating are off. When I turned circuit breaker off and on again, the power and generating light came on for 5 seconds and went back out. What’s it doing?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 23, 2018
  
  In the last part of the article we mention:
  
  Power LED Not On
  1) Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  2) Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  3) If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  4) The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
  
  Reply
  1. Dan Robinson
    
    August 24, 2018
    
    Thanks Matt, I checked the fuse tonight and it is not blown. When I flipped breaker on tonight, only salt ppm and no flow light came on. A few minutes later, no flow light goes out and only salt ppm number is displayed. I’m changing flow switch tomorrow to see if that helps. If nothing changes, should I replace the board?
    Thank you
    
    Reply
    1. Abbey R
      
      August 24, 2019
      
      I am having this same issue. Did we ever get a resolution to this?
      
      Reply
Billy

August 24, 2018

AquaRite unit says salt is 3500, test strips and a separate tester show 2850. tried to recalibrate generator but the numbers flash by so quickly I cannot read them. any suggestions on how to slow it down so I can select the correct salt level?

Reply
Mike VP

August 24, 2018

Here’s an FYI. I have the Aquarite with a t-cell-9. Never have an issue, it is checked when lit, and cleaned when required. Unit blew the fuse the other day, everything looked fine. Replaced the fuse, and it came back until it tried to make chlorine. Off position, it stayed fine, auto or super, it blew the fuse.
I replaced the cell and it is working perfectly fine again. So I am figuring the old cell shorted out. Four years to the day.

Reply
Barrie

August 27, 2018

Hi. I have an Aquarite T-cell-15 Above ground Goldline Aquarite chlorinatimg system andwhen I switch on the power, all of the LED lights flash rapidly continuously and the PCB control board clicks erpeated in groups of four fast clicks at a time with a slightly onger gap between the groups of four clicks. Of course it is not working at all and I have had to disconnect the power as it’s power and my pool pump power share the same on/off switch. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I have called and spoken to Hayward technical support in Ontario and they are supposed to call me back but have not done so as yet. Any help would be appreciated.

Reply
Michelle

September 3, 2018

Aquarite AQR9. Installed pool earlier this summer and it was consistently generating chlorine and weekly levels were great. Now All I am getting is a power LED but the “generating” light never comes on, even when I dial it up to 100% or try superchlorinate. Salt reads 3300. Pump is on, so that’s not the issue.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 4, 2018
  
  Are you receiving any other lights or alerts on the control board besides the ones you mentioned?
  
  Have you checked the cell for scaling? Has the cell been cleaned since it was installed?
  
  Reply
Marie

September 5, 2018

I have a new cell bought in June. System ran fine, then it started coming on and off in a cycle of about 20-30 secs. The amps are all correct and I wonder if I need to replace board?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 6, 2018
  
  Are there any alert lights? Have you tried recalibrating or cleaning the cell?
  
  Reply
Roger

September 7, 2018

Hi,
I’ve been fighting with my Hayward salt system all year. It worked fine last year, this year, not so much.

The pool holds roughly 15,000 gallons.

All readings are within normal values, the only LEDs on the system that are on are POWER and GENERATING. I have the correct cell type selected. Even running @ 100% it’s generating zero chlorine. I’ve been adding powder chlorine, that too disappears in a day or two. Cyanuric acid is nominal. I have a floater with broken up chlorine tabs in the pool, that doesn’t seem to touch it. I’ve had the (new) salt cell and the pool water checked by my local Leslie’s — they say everything’s perfect. I’ve recalibrated the controller and the current is nominal in both polarities.

This is crazy-making. Any suggestions?

I emailed Hayward technical support, they said “your phosphorus levels are high”, I said, no, they’re not (<100PPM), they didn't want to discuss it after that.

Reply
Scott

October 15, 2018

What would cause the cell to produce too much chlorine when only set on 15% ? I’ve tested several times and the chlorine is dark yellow in the test tube. The cell is a T-15 and is 8 years old.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 16, 2018
  
  Because it is autumn, if you are in a colder climate, chlorine does not get burned off like it normally would do in summer. So your chlorine could be lingering around for longer, and your cell is just adding to it. Turn off the cell until the chlorine drops to a lower level.
  
  Reply
  1. Scott
    
    October 16, 2018
    
    Thanks Matthew. I also have the cover on so very little sunlight is hitting the pool.
    
    Reply
Stephen Linsky

October 22, 2018

I replaced a t-15 with a t-9 cell on a aqua rite originally installed in 2007 (I learned the age of the unit after installing the new cell). After installing the new cell I found that the board does not have the option for choosing a different cell type. I guess my question is if there is a way to update the board to be able to work with a t-9? Now that I’ve spent a bunch of $ on the new cell, am I stuck having to get a whole new board as well to get the t-9 to work properly?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 24, 2018
  
  Yes, just replace the old board with the new style. The Aquarite replacement main PCB is the GLXPCBRITE
  
  Reply
Jesyca powell

October 24, 2018

What is a -pcb-? That’s what my aqua rite thing is displaying. Also leds are lit for high salt, no flow, inspect cell.

Reply
1. Jesyca powell
  
  October 24, 2018
  
  Sorry, I know very little about our pool and equipment.. but i want to know if something’s broken before I tell my husband… because if it is there’s a 94% chance I’m the one who broke it.
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    October 25, 2018
    
    Hello Jesyca – the replacement main PCB for the Aquarite is part number GLXPCBRITE. If your display board is flashing the PCB code then replacing it is your next step. If your system was made after 2010, the aftermarket Pureline PCB PL7100 is an option.
    
    Reply
Maria

November 10, 2018

We are having the light issue with the power light and will check the fuse, but the screen is reading “cold”. What does that mean. We have a Swim Pure Plus system. Everything is running fine as far as we know. The water temp is in the 60s. It has never said this in the past

Reply
Tang

March 10, 2019

Hello, I have a aquarite t-cell 15, it developed a problem recently. I have added bags of salt in there not long ago. The salt level reading was ok to start with, then just lowers down to 2700 in a few days. So, When the cell was generating, I checked the instant salt level, it always says a weird number, like -2000, -1900… I guess this drags the average salt reading down in a few days? The pool store said my salt level is 3400. But my pool has 0 chlorine in there! Also, when it is generating, the current is about 3.4A, this seems low compare to before, but i am not really sure. Do I seem to have a bad cell, or bad circuit board? Any suggestions? Thanks!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  March 11, 2019
  
  Can you explain what troubleshooting you have done besides add salt? Did you clean the cell? Have you recalibrated the salt level?
  
  Reply
dave butler

April 6, 2019

my haward aqua rite kept turning off after a minute or so – so i bought a replacement logic board which i just installed but the 20 amp fuse blew as soon as i turned the power back on – i replaced it with the 20 amp fuse from the old board but the same thing happened – what is my next step?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 8, 2019
  
  The AquaLogic board is different than an AquaRite board. Are you sure you purchased and installed the correct board? Also, when you install a new board you need to make sure the circuit voltage settings correct before applying power. Check the circuit for any faults, and for the correct voltage so you can confirm your board is set up correctly.
  
  Reply
dave butler

April 8, 2019

this is what i bought —
Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main for Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination – how do i make sure circuit voltage settings are correct?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 9, 2019
  
  If you have a multimeter, test the leads that are connecting to the unit’s terminal board
  
  Reply
Chris

April 10, 2019

I replaced the PCB because my power and generating led’s were not coming on. The LCD however is displaying properly. After the PCB replacement, the power & generating lights still do not turn on. The cell is clean and less than 6 months old. Any idea on what should I replace next?

Reply
dave butler

April 13, 2019

i tested with multimeter and found the replacement board with jumpers for 220 ac as described as the default setting had about 240 VAC across and the next test across the yellows showed 24 – the following test across the 20 amp fuse that keeps blowing shows 22.6 – also the replacement 20 amp fused i bought have prongs that are too wide to fit on the connectors on the board – i held one up with needle nosed pliers to make connection and it quickly blew the circuit as the others had done. i can’t test black and red across main board without 20 amp fuse that works – as of now there is almost no current across black and red on main. should i return replacement board i bought as faulty? if not what do i do next? thanks for your help.

Reply
Leo-iii

April 20, 2019

The system is running but my “No flow” LED is lit. Does that mean that the cell needs replacement?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 23, 2019
  
  What do you mean the “system is running”? Is the cell producing chlorine? The control panel is on and other lights are as normal? Or do you mean the pump is on and pushing water?
  
  Reply
  1. frank
    
    December 2, 2019
    
    pool is running no flow is on
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      December 2, 2019
      
      And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide?
      
      Reply
Tom Waldrop

May 9, 2019

What does it mean if all LEDs are on and the screen is blank?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 10, 2019
  
  If the cell is still producing chlorine and the lights are operating as normal, the display board’s lcd screen is likely dead. I don’t think Hayward offers the screen as a replacement part.
  
  Reply
John in Phoenix

May 15, 2019

Hello all. I have a Hayward T-15 system. I replaced the cell 2 or 3 years ago, and the board 2 years ago. I have proper salt, the cell generates chlorine, BUT the “Desired output %” will not increase over 18 no matter how I spin the dial. It will DECREASE, but will not increase over 18. I can switch to Super Chlorinate the display reads 100. Any suggestions on what is going on? Thanks!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 17, 2019
  
  The knob mechanism may be faulty. As I see it there are two solutions: replace the knob piece of the display board or replace the whole display board. Those small gadgets pieces are available at local or online electronic parts stores. If you want to replace the whole board there you have the Hayward PCB or the aftermarket Pureline PCB
  
  Reply
  1. John in Phoenix
    
    May 17, 2019
    
    Thank you sir. I greatly appreciate the insight.
    
    Reply
  2. John in Phoenix
    
    May 20, 2019
    
    One further question, do you all sell the knob? If so, do you have a part #?
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      May 20, 2019
      
      We do not, Hayward doesn’t list a part number for it.
      
      Reply
      1. John in Phoenix
        
        May 20, 2019
        
        Thank you sir.
Ray in Venice FL

May 19, 2019

Why won’t my Hayward Swim-Pure Plus hold the “salt display” reading. All the other readings seem to be within range and hold, but the salt reading drops down and goes into shut off mode.
here are the readings I have:
1. 85 water temp
2. 25.2 cell voltage
3. 4.08 cell current-amps
4. 51% output
5. 3000 Instant Salinity (this continually drops down to shut off mode)
Everything seems correct except the salinity drops until it hits shutdown zone. It usually takes about a day
for it to get there (maybe 2 days), but then I have to reset it to up around 3000. Readings from pool store are always at mid to high 3000’s when I take water there weekly.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 20, 2019
  
  Have you cleaned the cell since this problem has started?
  
  Reply
  1. Ray in Venice FL
    
    May 20, 2019
    
    Yes, and it looks clean with no buildup apparent from either end. I HAVE NOT, however, ever cleaned it using a partial acid solution because every time that I have cleaned it using a hose there was never an obvious buildup that was visible.
    
    Reply
  2. Ray in Venice FL
    
    May 24, 2019
    
    I replied about 4 days ago, but have not received a response………..
    
    Reply
Layne Wyckoff/corvettelayne@gmail.com

May 28, 2019

I have an Aquarite/Goldline chlorinator and t-15 salt cell (r-1.4) for fourteen years. It’s installed on 21,000 gallon liner pool, so I expected the salt cell to exceed the 5 year limit, but can’t believe we were able to get an additional 9 years. Eight years ago I had to replace the currrent limiter on the PC board, but I initially thought I had to replace the salt cell and ordered a Compupool GRC40GH, which is suppose to be a direct replacement. I never replaced the the salt cell and I have stored the Compupool GRC40GH salt cell in my garage for nine years. I have replaced the current limiter two more times on the PC board and have had no issues with the SWG system from Aquarite/Goldline, until this year when the generator stopped generating and the salinity output reading levels started to drop significantly. I replace the salt cell and recalibrated the salinity reading and hit 3200ppm, which was just measured at the pool store. Everything appeared to be working fine and the the salinity numbers started to measure 4000ppm and 1000ppm over the next few days. I kept recalibrating the system, but the salinity now reads 3800ppm, which is too high and now the NO FLOW LED does not illuminate and flash for the first 10 to 30 seconds before the GENERATION LED illuminates. During AUTO start-up we have the GENERATION LED illuminated immediately. I can here the relay energize on the PC board, which I assume is actually sending power to the salt cell to generate chlorine. Is it possible for the flow meter/relay to fail in a closed state? Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? Is the software corrupted on a EEPROM/microprocessor? if it is; is the software on the main PC board or is on the smaller LED PC board. I going to disconnect the flow switch tomorrow and read the voltage and current outputs no closely. It appears after I recalibrate the system that we are generating chlorine at the salt cell, as I do see some small bubbles through the site glass area, however I’m not seeing an increase in chlorine levels, like I should, after two full days running around the clock. Any suggestions in troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thank You

Reply
Ray in Venice FL

May 30, 2019

Is there anyone still there who is replying to comments and replies any more?????
Thank You!

Reply
Denys

June 13, 2019

Hi,
Installed new Aqua Plus in September, T-15 cell. Was working just great last fall.
This year, after opening… it’s not generating enough chlorine. I have some very little amount of it, small fraction from what it suppose to be.
– salt was checked and added, shows 3200 or 3300
– Actual cell was checked, was perfectly clean
– ~26 volts and ~5.4 Amp
– configured for T-15 cell
– temperature 60F
Main concern, that it’s generating something…by filling about 20% from the original.
So much appreciated for any suggestions

Reply
1. Denys
  
  June 24, 2019
  
  At the moment…Chlorine stabilizer was added and it started to work much better…
  Didn’t know that even under solar cover that thing matters so much
  
  Reply
Nicki

June 23, 2019

Hello- our system is less than a year old and works great. About a week ago our Power LED and no flow light stay on when the system should be “off”. It also shows all readings when it should be off. The system is still generating and gives correct readings. It seems as there is no way to shut it off. Any suggestions?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 25, 2019
  
  It sounds like you have the system wired in a way that never shuts off power to the panel even if the motor pump is turned off. You could either re-wire it or since it is working fine keep it the way it is.
  
  Reply
Joe

June 28, 2019

The power light does not come on. I reset the circuit breaker and the “generating” light came on for 5 seconds and then went out. The power light never came back on. I even bought an entire new circuit board and this made no difference. Could it be the transformer? Can those be purchased? How do I test it?

Reply
Anonymous

June 30, 2019

Hi Matt. I have an Aqua Plus system. The problem I’m having is my super chlorinate works fine when I test it but when I test it on just chlorinate at 60% I get nothing. If I super chlorinate my pool tests ok for chlorine. If I just leave it on chlorinate, in a day or so I have no chlorine in my pool. I put a dummie on and when I put the chlorinater in a bucket of water it generates on super chlorinate but not chlorinate. Any idea what is going on?

Reply
Murlinator

July 2, 2019

Hello.

Aqua Rite unit with the T-15 cell.

My temperature reads about 50 degrees hotter than actual water temp and I can’t figure out why. I installed the cell new last fall. I have inspected the cell for buildup and it is clear.

Any ideas?

Is it possible that my VS pump is heating up the water enough to cause this reading? The pipes coming into the cell don’t feel warm to the touch.

Thanks for your help!

Reply
SDutta

July 2, 2019

My aqua-rite generator have blank display screen with the power light on but no other lights…can someone advise on the potential cause. It worked till yesterday.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 3, 2019
  
  If the cell is still creating chlorine then it is likely a display board issue, if it is not creating chlorine then the main board is the issue.
  
  Reply
Shawn

July 10, 2019

Hi, TCell 15 and everyday I have to recalibrate the salt level for it to produce chlorine. Any ideas?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 11, 2019
  
  I hate to keep asking this same question to everybody; but, did you check that the correct cell is selected on the panel? Have you cleaned the cell? How old is the cell?
  
  Reply
Dan jost

July 20, 2019

My power led will not come on and it won’t generate. When I reset the breaker it flashes no flow for about 60 seconds and then the generate led lights up fo about 10 seconds the off. The display works fine. My water has no chlorine, so it’s not generating. I checked the fuse, it’s good.
8 yr old pool, and I’m on my second cell.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 22, 2019
  
  Going by your description and the troubleshooting steps we list in the guide about this very situation, I think you need a new AquaRite Main PCB – GLX-PCB-RITE
  
  Reply
Ron Jung

August 9, 2019

my customer says the system does not read the salt level correctly. the reading he does get slowly drops as the day goes on. the the system shuts off. when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. is it the cell or the PC board?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 14, 2019
  
  From that scant description, I cannot tell what the cause is. But have you or the customer checked the cell voltage, amps and completed any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the article? That could go a long way in determining what the issue is.
  
  Reply
David Gretlein

August 13, 2019

Great info and many thanks. You are correct – no place is the troubleshooting info consolidated.

I have an Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator that does not have some of the features you highlight. For example, I am unable to reset the cell type. I never see the “T-xx”. Another things is that I am unable to display the voltage and current.

Could this be because our firmware is version r1.10?

A little history is that this system came with the home we bought but was not in use. No salt in the pool. They had a service that managed the chlorine. I have replaced the cell with a GLX-CELL3-W ( we have an ~16000 gal. pool ). We check the water and all Parameters are in line except no chlorine. Any thoughts?

Thank you in advance.

Reply
1. David Gretlein
  
  August 15, 2019
  
  Hey Matthew – when I perform the following:
  1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
  2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display
  …
  I never see “t-xx” or “t-15”, “t-3”, etc. …
  
  Your thoughts?
  
  Reply
  1. Donald Samborski
    
    September 8, 2021
    
    did anybody give an answer to this? Mine does same
    
    Reply
David Gretlein

August 15, 2019

Hi Matthew –
Nevermind, …
“Aqua Rite chlorine generators operating with software version 1.50 or later are designed to use one of 3 different chlorinator cells that are available from your authorized Hayward dealer.”

Reply
Sven Jurgens

August 15, 2019

Hi Matthew,

My system stopped working yesterday. When I entered the pool shed there was a weird smell, as if a transistor or something had burned out. The inside of the box looked fine however and the logic board still seems to work correctly. It’s not the T-15 cell either as I’ve tried a different one (on loan, guaranteed working) with the same result.

What happens is that it takes about 3 minutes for the power led to come on. Then when you set it to auto or super chlorinate, after about 8 seconds you hear the familiar click of the logic board turning the cell. 7 seconds later another click and both lights turn off again.
It turns out it takes a couple minutes for the voltage to the cell to build back up which crashes back down as soon as the cell turns on.

The board gives me this diagnostic info:
Salinity: 2.90
Temp: 27 (celcius)
Voltage: slowly builds to 17.4 (when set to off) takes about 3 minutes before power led turns on.
The voltage crashes down to less than 1.0 quickly after the cell turns on.
Amperage: Initially shoots up to 0.7 when cell turns on, then immediately crashes back down to 0.00
Desired output: 69p (while knob is at 60, close enough)
Instant Salinity: -0.00 Quickly goes to -1.40 then right back to -0.00 when cell turns on.
Product name: AL – 0
Software revision: r 1.40
No cell type info but hasn’t changed since installation.

Goldline controls
PN: G1-066012C-1
Rev: C

115v input
24v over the two yellow wires

Which component is at fault, the board or the transformer or something replaceable on the board? The cell tries to draw power but the box can’t deliver and shuts back off.

Reply
Roy

August 18, 2019

All my lights are green but it doesnt appear to be making any chlorine. What gives?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 26, 2019
  
  How do you know it is isn’t making chlorine?
  
  Reply
  1. Craig
    
    September 10, 2019
    
    Same problem. Lights are green, both if set to % or set to superchlorinate (appropriate lights with each setting. Amps and volts are good. Salt level says 3300 but test strip says 2800. Put in new cell a week ago and things chlorine was coming out. Now…nothing. I have a hose bib after the cell and test water before it gets to the pool.
    
    Is there a way to see if the cell just stopped working?
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      September 12, 2019
      
      The bucket test is pretty simple. Get a 5-gallon bucket, fill it with pool water, then submerge the cell in the water. Next, turn on the SCG and set the output to 100% to make sure it is on and not oscillating between on/off. If the cell is making chlorine, there should bubbles floating out the cell which is a byproduct of the cell creating chlorine.
      
      Reply
Pat

August 19, 2019

My aqua rite chlorine output knob is not working correctly. When setting it to 30 it reads on the display 80. Not sure how to reset/calibrate this. Would appreciate any insight.

Thanks!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 26, 2019
  
  That is a symptom of a bad display board and is not something that can be calibrated away. You will need either the PureLine AquaRite Replacement Display PCB Board or the OEM option GLX-PCB-DSP
  
  Reply
Pat

August 29, 2019

Thanks Matthew. Appreciate the input. Is this something i can do or should I have a professional install?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 29, 2019
  
  Take a look at this how-to guide, you can determine if it is something you can handle: How to Replace an Aqua Rite Display PCB
  
  Reply
Michelle

September 14, 2019

Matthew, earlier this summer I was going nuts because I had the right amount of salt but no chlorine was being generated. After finding this blog I figured out that my T-9 cell system was set to T-5 on the panel. I reset it to T-9 and was getting chlorine the rest of the summer. Over the past week our pool has turned green and when I checked the FC it was down to 0. Checked the panel again and it was set to T-5. No one has touched it. No clue why it is changing it’s settings on its own. Any suggestions on this?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 16, 2019
  
  Not sure, why it may have reset. Maybe there was a power outage that caused a change, or someone accidentally adjusted the wrong setting. I’d just keep an eye on it, so when you see water quality slipping, you can act quicker next time.
  
  Reply
paul

September 24, 2019

My system comes on and shows a HIGH reading, not generating. If I move the switch to off then back on it displays a salt reading (2700) and the generating light is on. Pool is starting to turn green. Any ideas as to what is causing this problem?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 26, 2019
  
  First, get your water tested to figure out what your actual water salinity level. Adjust salt level as needed. Second, clean the cell. The cell may be malfunctioning because the sensors and plates are caked with scale. Third, if the first two things don’t work, use the diagnostics mentioned throughout this article.
  
  Reply
Stephen Young

September 30, 2019

My Hayward Aquarite unit (T-15) is producing no chlorine – I just took the salt cell to a testing place and they said it was working ‘like new’. All indicators are working as normal and all metrics within acceptable range. Couple of things are unusual (1) the control unit is producing a lot of heat – the box is almost too hot to touch (2) the salt reading is 3700 and tested 4100.
Any advice? Thanks

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 3, 2019
  
  Just going through the things we mention in the article. You could try recalibrating the salt level, cleaning the cell, or try some of the other things mentioned at the bottom of the article, depending on the light alerts your box is providing.
  
  Reply
Misha Petrovic

October 27, 2019

Hi, and thanks for such a nice guide… Although it has not solved my problem, it gave me a few ideas of what to look for. I’ll post the problem here, just in case there are some quick suggestions about what might be wrong with my system.
Here are the symptoms:
(1) Only the Power LED is on, Generating does not come on; Superchlorinating does not come on even when switched on, and no other LEDs ever come on, no error messages
(2) the Output switch is set to 100%
(3) The cell has been tested at a shop, it works fine,
(4) The pool chemistry is good, salt is at 2900ppm (tested at Leslie’s), temp at 62F… After I did all water chemistry steps, and finally added 400 lbs of salt, I’ve been running the pump for about 14 hrs straight
(5) Diagnostics works, it always shows zero for average and instant salinity, c. 33V for Cell Voltage, zero amps; cell type is t-15, correct.
I did the circuit board troubleshooting as per Hayward guide, all voltages seem ok and correct, the fuse has continuity…
I never hear any clicks for the relay switch when I turn the unit on, as mentioned somewhere in the guide, but then again the pump is loud, and I don’t really know how loud should that click be…

any suggestions?

Reply
frank

December 2, 2019

no flow light is on pump is running ok

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  December 3, 2019
  
  And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide?
  
  Reply
Jeff B in FL

February 1, 2020

Hi Matt, I’ve read a years worth of owner comments and your responses. What I have determined is that it is nearly impossible to manage all the variables (cell function, PCB function, salt levels) and come up with a correct diagnosis of a problem from where you are sitting. The diagnostic flow charts are helpful but far from perfect.

The one repeated complaint I see in this blog and elsewhere on the web and without a solution being provided is the complaint of a declining instant salt reading over time when tested pool salt levels are in range . That then results in (1) the salt cell shuts down at some point during a filtration cycle due to a low salt reading or (2) on restart of the pump/filtration cycle, the salt cell fails to restart because the last instant salt reading was out of the specified range for operation.

Bottom line and still an unanswered question: why does the instant salt level reading decline during a filtration cycle when (1) the pool salt level is in range, (2) the salt cell is clean, working correctly and not aged out, (3) diagnostics indicate there are no problems with the PCB itself (hardware).

Noteworthy in this discussion is that, with my system experiencing this problem of declining salt levels during a filtration cycle, by sliding the power switch to off then back to auto or super chlorinate, the system seeks a new instant salt level that is close to what your pool water test says it was. Then, the salt cell starts generating again and the cycle repeats itself, i.e., the instant salt level gradually declines forcing a halt to salt generation due to a low salt level that is presumably incorrectly determined by the system.

The one thing I’ve not seen discussed anywhere is the potential for the PCBs to be improperly programmed at the factory level, i.e., the sampling sequence produces errors and in this case low salt readings. All other system components found to be within specifications (cell, pool chemistry, PCB) would lead one to believe a global software issue with certain PCBs coming out of certain facilities may be the underlying problem. I say “certain” PCBs because not every PCB demonstrates this behavior. It’s a quality control issue perhaps.

One other thought: The way the system determines instant salt and by extension the memorized or average salt level is through a pre-programmed sampling sequence. Whenever you change the cell or correct pool salt levels by adding salt or diluting the pool a small change in salt concentration (PPMs) disrupts the accuracy of the programmed sampling cycle. It appears that it takes a while for the system to find a stable instant salt reading. A solution to the declining salt level problem that then shuts down the salt cell may be to leave your pool pump on for maybe 72 hours to allow multiple sampling cycles to occur without interruption. The one problem with this solution is that (1) if the PCB is programmed to shut off salt generation when the memorized or average salt level drops below spec or (2) It uses the instant salt reading to determine shut down parameters and this resets at every new filtration cycle, my proposed solution won’t help and we’re back to PCB programming issues that need to be addressed. Interested in hearing your take on this post.

Reply
1. fred
  
  May 13, 2020
  
  Any response to this comment? I’ve read most of this thread.
  
  I am getting a low salt reading. Multiple tests at pool store tell me I’m at 3500. Cell is a T15 and cell test at pool store is good.
  
  I can get an instant salt reading high enough to get the generator to work but it will shut down and tell me low salt.
  
  I’ve replaced the circuit board, to no avail.
  
  I’m ready to throw the whole system out. What else can I do?
  
  Reply
  1. Chris
    
    June 23, 2021
    
    same here, did you find a way to fix the problem I’m having same issue reading says 1600 so low salt light blinks and check cell light blinks. took the strips and my salt is at 4000 now because i kept adding salt.
    
    Reply
Tom Crabtree

March 2, 2020

Hiya Matt!
I have a Hayward Goldline Salt Generator with a T-15 cell.
Starting up the system this year, i get a constant flashing “Inspect Cell” light.
When I press the Display button to reset the 500 hour operation limit, it does not reset the light., i.e., the flashing light stays on. The system is generating chlorine, but the stupid light stays flashing.
If I push the Display button to see the settings, nothing happens. I can’t see any of the diagnostic values.
I’m having the cell checked, but I suspect a problem on the PCB, unless I’m missing something.
If I hold down the Display button for 10-10 seconds I do hear the relay reset, so I know the button and the board are working and the system is generating Chlorine.
Help!!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  March 2, 2020
  
  I see you have done all of this diagnostic work, but have you tried cleaning the cell? If the cell is still making chlorine, but you are still experiencing false alarms after the cleaning, you probably need to replace the Main PC Board.
  
  Reply
Landon

April 17, 2020

I opened my pool up this past week. Now I cannot get any power to the salt system. Pump and everything else is working? Went to the pool place and they are telling me that I need a whole new system. Do I need to try and get a brand new 20 amp min fuse? How about cleaning the cell do you think that my be the issue?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 17, 2020
  
  You can buy a fuse for a couple of bucks and try it out; it is a pretty cheap and simple item to procure and install. If it isn’t the fuse and you have confirmed power is reaching the control box, the main PCB is likely bad and needs to be replaced.
  
  A dirty salt cell will not affect power getting to the unit
  
  Reply
Virgil

April 18, 2020

These are my readings:
Salt level 3200
Temperature 85
Voltage (22 – 32VDC) 16.8
Amperage 0
Desired output 100
Instant salt 0
Program code AL-0
Circuit board revision 1.58
Cell size t-15

Problem description: Amperage = 0, no chlorine generation.

Observed behavior:
1 Turn on power. “No Flow” LED starts flashing.
2 60sec later, “No Flow” LED tuns off. “Generating” LED turns on (green).
3 10sec later all LEDs turn off.
4 10sec later “Power” and “Generating” LEDs turn on (green)
5 10sec later a click is heard
6 8sec later “Power” and “Generating” LEDs turn off
7 60sec later go to step 4

Can you please help? Thank you so much in advance.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 21, 2020
  
  From the article section regarding cell amperage:
  
  If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
  
  Reply
Brian

April 26, 2020

I have an aqua rite system with only the green power light lit no matter where the switch is at. No other lights come on when I move switch from each position. Thanks!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 28, 2020
  
  Does anything show up on the display? Can you see the diagnostics menu?
  
  Reply
MATT LANTIERE

April 29, 2020

Matt: I had some issues with this Aquarite system .. lead me to replacing both the display and the main board — now each morning it reads “700” on the display, as well as “CHECK SALT” and “INSPECT CELL” blinks … go through the calibration routine and everything seems to go back to normal — until the next morning. (kind of like GROUNDHOG DAY) — what’s you thought?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 30, 2020
  
  Matt, It’s possible that the wrong cell size is selected in the diagnostics. It could also be the cell needs to be cleaned or replaced.
  
  which TCELL are you using, and have you made sure the control is set for it? How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
  
  Reply
MATT LANTIERE

April 30, 2020

Happened again ;like clockwork this morning — BTW: each morning it reads “700” on the display, as well as “CHECK SALT” and “INSPECT CELL” stays on (stated in earlier post that it blinks — but actually stays on)

Reply
MATT LANTIERE

May 1, 2020

Thanks for getting back … cell t-15 is correctly selected on the display, and cell t-15 was cleaned about 4 weeks ago. Technician says the salt box stays “ON” overnight , even after the pump shuts off in late afternoon — he thinks that’s the problem — although the system has been doing that for 16 years now. Both display panel and PCB have been replaced (yes, with genuine Hayward stuff) — tried a OEM board and replaced that a few days ago — this is really making me a little crazy. If I press the reset to calibrate, numbers all seem to go back to normal. But then next thing in the morning starts off at 700 again!

Reply
1. Anonymous
  
  May 29, 2021
  
  My aqua rite amp reading is 0 and salt out put 0. If I increase the dial it reads correctly. If I move it back down to below 45 it goes back to 0 on both. What is the issue or is this really working but at 0 doesnt need to generate?
  
  Reply
Jason Hayes

May 9, 2020

Matt,
I recently started my pool up. I have it all clear through shocking ,etc. I recently added salt to obtain a level of 3100. I did recalibrate my Aquarite unit. It starts to produce chlorine in about 15 minutes shuts off. When I check my display, it says my salt reading is 3100 but my average salt reading is 0 and the amps is 0. The light for generating is still “on.” I have not tested the salt with a strip. Would either a high or low salt level cause it to shut off and display 0? I have a t9 cell and all configurations are setup correctly. I just get confused why it would work for a period of time and then no longer work.

Reply
1. Jason Hayes
  
  May 9, 2020
  
  I meant to say my average salt level still reads 3100 but my instant salt level reads 0. Sorry for the confusion.
  
  Reply
2. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 21, 2020
  
  I would make sure you have the correct cell size listed on your control panel settings. If the amperage still reads 0 after adjusting the cell type, you need to replace the turbo cell.
  
  Reply
Jim G

May 13, 2020

My instantaneous salt reading has been dropping over the past several weeks. It is now down to 2000 ppm but the water tests at 3200. I can recalibrate the average to be correct but the instantaneous reading stays low. While generating the voltage (Voltage is actually 25.2 V). and amperage are within normal range for the T-15 cell that is installed. Is this an indication that the cell is going bad?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 21, 2020
  
  There is a little white sensor nub on the inside of the cell that reads temp and salt level. Sometimes this sensor gets dirty and may need a little extra scrubbing besides the normal acid bath to get it clean. You can find it one of the ends of the cell, give it a few brushes with a toothbrush (preferably not one you plan on using) to get rid of any debris or scale build-up
  
  Reply
Andrew

May 16, 2020

Hi Matthew Simmons,

Please help! My Aquarite is LED light won’t go on and when I turn the system to AUTO it trips the breaker. If I leave the system on OFF there’s numbers displaying on the screen which means there’s power but still there’s not LED lights on except the “no flow” light which flashes for about 60 seconds then stops. As soon as I turn on the system to AUTO the breaker trips a few minutes later.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 20, 2020
  
  You can try putting the aquarite on a different breaker to determine if the aquarite is the issue or if your original breaker is.
  
  You can also get into troubleshooting the wiring of your system to determine the specific issue, refer to the Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual
  
  Reply
Ron

May 26, 2020

Mathew,

Is there a relationship between:
The current and the amount of chlorine being generated, ie, when my current goes from
5 amps to 6 amps has my chlorine production increased? By 20%?
The amount of salt (ppm) and the amount of current?
The answers seem obvious but I have seen several times where after a substantial rain the current increases, which seems opposite to expectation.
Is the ppm given a result of an actual sensor (eg hydrometer) or the calculated result of other sensors (eg current, voltage)

Reply
Pete

May 28, 2020

My Aqua Rite Salt Cell display board reads “COLD” for salt reading. My water temp is actually above 80 degrees. I will be replacing the salt cell next week. Is there a problem with the display board or is it something else?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 7, 2020
  
  Your problem is likely stemming from the cell. The display board should not need to be reset; your cell is giving the box bad info, so the board giving you the wrong reading.
  
  Turn your AquaRite on; if you unplug your cell while on and the cell temp reads 77 degrees, then it definitely the cell.
  
  Reply
MICHAEL HAILEY

May 28, 2020

Just replaced my T-5 cell due to system showing very low salt content even as I added 12 bags of salt. Now, the amps are reading high (8.5) and the salt level is all over the place. It was reading 2700 for three days, I added two bags of salt and 24 hours later it reads 1700. I’m in Florida so the system runs all year. Pool temp is 84.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 7, 2020
  
  First, what is the actual salt level? Have you had your water tested either by a local pool store or done it yourself using salt test strips? You need to know what the actual salt level is to determine how off the readings for your unit are.
  
  Have you recalibrated the salt level in the diagnostics menu? How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite
  
  Reply
Becky Warwick

June 1, 2020

I am having a issue with the salt reading and instant salinity reading. The salt reading is 900 and Instant salinity reads -3300. I have recalibrated then generator numerous times and the numbers will match for that day. Once power turns off with timer and next day it powers back on the readings go back to 900 and -3000. The generator worked last year and In April it operated properly. I have. Hayward T15 cell that was installed April 2019. Is the cell bad?

Reply
1. Becky Warwick
  
  June 1, 2020
  
  I also had water tested at pool store and the reading was 3168 which is good. My cell voltage on the cell reads 26.2 running and 32.4 off.
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    October 6, 2020
    
    When was the last time you cleaned the cell?
    
    Reply
Anonymous

June 2, 2020

What does it mean when ur board is flashing a triangle and a plus symbol in left corner

Reply
Jeff Willey

June 9, 2020

Troubleshooting a controller board and have never seen this symptom. Goes though calibration and start up perfectly yet does not show a salt level indication on rough setting or displayed setting. Can anyone tell me the components responsible for salt sensing?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 11, 2020
  
  What are the cell volts and amps reading in the diagnostics? Is the correct cell type selected in the settings?
  
  Reply
  1. chris
    
    June 1, 2021
    
    my first number is 30.5, the second is zero
    
    Reply
Mac H.

June 12, 2020

Matthew,
I have a situation I’ve not seen addressed yet – system is not generating chlorine and I only have the power LED lit with power on. Display seems normal. I’ve replaced the current limiter cap with no effect.
Any idea what’s going on and what I can do next to resolve this?
Thanks much for any help!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 9, 2020
  
  What cell number are you using? Also, is the correct cell type selected in the control panel’s setting?
  
  What are the amps and volts values shown in the diagnostics menu on the panel?
  
  Reply
GFH

June 17, 2020

I have an AquaTrol above ground generator that was installed about 5 or 6 years ago. I ran diagnostics and it says my software version is 1.45. I need too buy a new T-Cell -3 but the store is saying for new T-Cell I require software revision 1.5 or higher.

Do I need to upgrade my software? How do I do that?

Thanks

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 2, 2020
  
  If you replace a TCELL3 with another TCELL3 (current part number W3T-CELL-3), then you should not need to make any changes to your control box.
  
  Reply
Steve

August 6, 2020

My Salt level is reading 0.00 . Before a rain storm it was 2400. I cleaned out some gunk in the cell but it is still showing 0.00

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 24, 2020
  
  Not to sound like a broken record but have you done any of the troubleshooting in the guide? IF so, what did you do?
  
  Did you try recalibrating the salt level? Did you make sure the correct TCELL is selected in your settings? Something may have been reset in the control during the storm, either from a power outage or some other irregularity.
  
  Reply
2. Joe m
  
  June 14, 2021
  
  Steve, just happened to me. hard rain storm and salt levels went down slowly from 3100 to 100. Checked many things. Clean cell. put in more salt. Any solutions found?
  
  Reply
James Zinkel

August 10, 2020

I bought a new Hayward salt cell this season. I cleaned it per instructions, re-installed. Now the display shows nothing.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 24, 2020
  
  The first thing to check is that power is actually reaching the unit. If you flipped the breaker before changing out the cell, make sure you have flipped it back. I’ve made this mistake a time or two. This is in the article and tells you things to check:
  
  Power LED Not On
  Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
  
  Reply
  1. Wayne Redfern
    
    June 19, 2021
    
    I have done these things. The system has power and the fuse is not blown as I checked both with a voltmeter. The system is fed by the power to the pool pump which was knocked off by lightening a couple of days ago. When i reset the breaker the pump came on but not the salt system. Is there a reset switch or is it likely a board was blown?
    
    Reply
Nik

September 25, 2020

Hello, just bought a house with salt water pool built in 2012… We have a Blue Essence chlorinator with a new t-15 cell. The motherboard was replaced about 2 years ago according to some receipts that the previous homeownes shared. My issue is that every morning when the pump turns on I have to recalibrate the chlorinator. The check salt light is on, it’s not generating and the salt reads around 700, also the correct salt cell is selected (t-15). The salt level is 3400 today. Once it’s recalibrated, the chlorinator generates as it should for the remainder of the day. What could be causing it to reset everyday? Thanks for answering all of our questions here!!

Reply
Dan

March 30, 2021

My pcb display indicates a salt level of 1600 But my salt level tester indicates 3200. I have re calibrated the control board and still have the same indications. Any thoughts as to what the problem is?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  March 31, 2021
  
  Have you taken a sample of your pool water to the pool store for verification of your refults? Salt system boards get out of whack all the time and test strips can also foul up, so I like to get outside confirmation of what is what.
  
  Reply
Tom Parisi

May 4, 2021

Matthew Simmons, On 5/1/20 at 7:47am, you corresponded with a gentleman, Matt Lantierel…….I am having exact same issue but never saw if issue was ever corrected. My salt reads 3200, spot on with my salt meter, salt strip and tested by Ducky’s. Next morning reading will be 700/900…Check salt / Check Cell…..My T-cell 9 is four years old and has been cleaned regularly as per instructions. Never has any type of build up…..I have the correct cell selected, voltage and amps all read spot on….I replaced my cell, even though when my pool shop tested it and it showed good….Nothing changed….I now replaced my PCB board, with OEM, no change…..seems that there’s more than myself having this issue…..Has there been any one that has found a solution…

Reply
Patti Spann

August 10, 2021

Unfortunately, we did not take a photo of the T-Cell before removing it to change it. How do I know which end of the T-Cell 9 goes toward the water flow coming in and which end points toward the Salt Generator?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 11, 2021
  
  The cell’s cord is usually on the outflow side of the plumbing sequence. See below graphic.
  
  Reply
2. SirBB
  
  August 20, 2021
  
  It does not matter
  
  Reply
Shannon

September 1, 2021

Help. Everything is flashing!!

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  September 3, 2021
  
  Do you really mean “everything” or is it just a couple of lights? Is the LCD screen flashing, blank, or showing a code? The more information you provide the better chance someone has to answer it.
  
  Have you tried turning it off and on again?
  
  Reply
Susan Vallance

October 4, 2021

We have a Hayward Aqua Plus system. We are getting a reading o the remote stating chlorinator is turned off High Temperature. The salt cylinder is clean.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 5, 2021
  
  What does your water temp say? Though it is a different control, they use the same cell; so if you are getting a temperature reading of 215, you need to replace the cell.
  
  Reply
  1. Patsy Palmese
    
    June 10, 2023
    
    my hayward salt water generator is not getting any reading totally blank
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      June 14, 2023
      
      I think the article mention if there are no lights or display showing, then you probably need to change the Hayward AquaRite Main PCB GLX-PCB-RITE
      
      Reply
Tony K

October 13, 2021

Aquarite is not powering up at all. 240v Input voltage is present. 24V after the transformer is present. 20amp fuse is not blown. Any suggestions?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  October 14, 2021
  
  If power is reaching the box, getting past the transformer, and the fuse is good, it sounds like the main PCB is the issue. The correct replacement would be the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) – GLX-PCB-RITE
  
  Reply
Louis Lopez

February 19, 2022

Power on LED is intermittently on or off. Power is always present at supply input.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  February 22, 2022
  
  When the control box is on, go to the diagnostics menu and give me the listed T-CELL type, amps, and voltage.
  
  How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
  
  Reply
Brad Miller

April 28, 2022

I am getting 24VAC from top Rectifier to PCB Input, says it should be 12VAC. Is this rectifier bad?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 2, 2022
  
  If the voltage between the orange and black is not 12VAC, you need to replace the rectifier or the board.
  
  Reply
Brad Miller mbrad39972@hotmail.com

April 28, 2022

After troubleshooting using your TS guide, I found on page 36 where it says to check the top rectifier I have 24VAC from the board (where the orange wire plugs into) to the ground. Not the 12VAC that it says should be there. Is there something on the board I need to change? I have it set for a T9 cell. Please contact me at mbrad39972@hotmail.com

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 2, 2022
  
  The other rectifier is rated as 18-33 VDC. On page 30 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide, it goes into depth about troubleshooting that rectifier.
  
  Reply
Justin

May 15, 2022

I have perhaps a really basic question – I just cannot get one side of my salt cell to seal with the union. It won’t stop leaking. I replaced the o-ring and it still leaks out the same spot. I think the problem is a nick in the face of the salt cell that the union’s o-ring seals against, but I can’t feel anything there so it’s not like a giant burr or anything. Any ideas how to address this?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 26, 2022
  
  I would try a couple of turns of Teflon tape on the threads to create a better seal. Without seeing the union and setup, it is hard to say what is causing it but check for warping of the nut.
  
  Reply
Ontario Rob

May 22, 2022

just replaced t15 on a rev 1.45 aqua rite and the default salt reading now is ‘4’. Tried recalibration and no change. otherwise all else seems to read ok.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 25, 2022
  
  I’d check the cell number just to confirm it is the TCELL15. The early revisions don’t work with the TCELL5 or TCELL9.
  
  What are the amp and volt readings for the new cell?
  
  Reply
Brenda Bell

May 23, 2022

All components of the Aqua Rite System are showing good readings and appears to be all set correctly. However it is not generating enough chlorine and we are adding chlorine more than we should. Anyone have this issue or have any recommendations?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 25, 2022
  
  Is this a new or older installation? If it is new, you may have undersized the cell, or your water chemistry is imbalanced, preventing the chlorine from working efficiently and effectively. If it an older installation, I would again check the water chemistry to make sure it is balanced correctly.
  
  Reply
2. tom
  
  June 20, 2022
  
  check your stabilizer level
  
  Reply
Susan

May 23, 2022

Our unit comes on for about 15 secs. Then we hear a click and the whole display goes blank.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 25, 2022
  
  Reply
  1. Fred Kempel
    
    April 16, 2023
    
    Should the Power LED be off when the pump is not running? My pump is set for a 12 hour cycle run. The Power LED comes on along with the Generating LED about two hours after the pump cycle starts. How can I get the power and salt generating coordinate with pump cycle.
    
    Reply
    1. Matthew Simmons
      
      July 28, 2023
      
      You can put the pump and salt chlorinator on the same Intermatic timer. This will ensure that the generator is only on when the pumpis on.
      
      Reply
2. Kyle
  
  May 30, 2022
  
  How did it end up? Mine just did the same
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    June 2, 2022
    
    Bump.
    
    Reply
Cesar

May 26, 2022

After connecting the device, the flow led flashes for one minute and turns off. At that moment the generation led turns on and turns off after a few seconds. All the leds remain off and the display shows the salt concentration 2900. At no time does the power led turn on. I checked the fuse and it’s good. The cell is new. Voltage cell is 10.7V and current is 0. Any idea of the problem??

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  May 27, 2022
  
  From the article:
  
  If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
  
  Reply
  1. Cesar
    
    June 13, 2022
    
    the termistor was blown. I remplace it and now the sistem works!! Thanks for the schema!!
    
    Reply
    1. Jon
      
      May 24, 2023
      
      What is a termistor? I’m having the same issue. Thanks
      
      Reply
      1. Matthew Simmons
        
        June 1, 2023
        
        Thermistor measures the temperature of surfaces, liquids, and ambient gasses.
2. Mark
  
  June 15, 2024
  
  I have the exact same problem. Can you please tell me how you fixed it? Do I need to change out the board?
  
  Reply
  1. Matthew Simmons
    
    June 17, 2024
    
    Did you confirm the correct cell size is listed in your diagnostics menu? Also, is the pump running when you’re watching your control?
    
    Reply
Jeff Smith

June 2, 2022

Hey buddy. Did you figure out your problem?
Mine is doing same thing.

Reply
Ken

June 5, 2022

My check salt generator station even after I clean it out

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 7, 2022
  
  Have you checked the cell’s voltage, amperage, or done anything other troubleshooting?
  
  Reply
Tina Lisi

June 12, 2022

Hello, my salt generator seems to be always be producing at 100% no matter what my output dial is set at. All the readings (salt level, amps, etc) are in the correct range. Does the mother board need replacing? I have a t-15 cell.
Thank you.

Reply
1. Anonymous
  
  June 26, 2022
  
  Just a thought… Do you have it set at super chlorinate ? If so, it will always read 100%. Move switch to center position and adjust dial to a percentage that you think it needs.
  
  Reply
Stefano

June 13, 2022

Hi, we just installed a new AquaRite unit and it has been running for 48 hrs The salt level is 3100 ppm (pool store also confirmed and tested the water, no issues detected with the water). I calibrated the unit to 3100 ppm. The unit works fine for approximately 4- 6 hours, then the Check Salt and Inspect Cell flashes (salt level on the unit reads 2600 ppm). Is there a break in period for the unit or do I need to call the technician? Thanks

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 13, 2022
  
  There isn’t a break-in period for these units. I’d call the install tech for troubleshooting.
  
  Reply
2. Gerardo
  
  March 31, 2023
  
  Hi Stefano,
  I’m having a similar problem as you mention here. What did the tech end up doing to fix?
  
  Reply
Jeffery Alessi

June 14, 2022

I’ve replace the salt cell, circuit board, and flow switch and my Acurite is still reading high salt. I sent a sample to the store and my salt level is 3400 and the reading shown is 4300. Don’t know how to fix this. I’ve done the reset and it still showing 4300

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 24, 2022
  
  Do you have the correct cell size chosen in your diagnostics menu?
  
  Reply
John K

June 29, 2022

I have replaced the Aqua Rite printed circuit board and the T-Cell-9. Display seems to be reading correctly and shows the cell is not generating. None of the indicating lights are on. Even the power light is not on. I checked the 20A fuse and it is good. Any suggestions?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 30, 2022
  
  What do you have the output percentage set to? What happens when you switch the output to super-chlorinate?
  
  Reply
2. Kirk Cordell
  
  February 5, 2023
  
  Did you figure this out. Ours is doing the same thing.
  
  Reply
3. Piper62j
  
  March 28, 2024
  
  That’s the problem I had..There is a large black thin wall capacitor on the circuit board which I replaced.. If it is bulging and appears swollen and burned, replace it.. They are cheap and all you need is a soldering iron.
  
  Reply
Anonymous

June 30, 2022

Question my Aquaririte is 3 years old. This week I notices that if I turn down the chlorine production rate….the display stops at 5…I can no longer get it to zero….I know I can turn off production by sliding the button down…but should I be worried?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  July 1, 2022
  
  If it is still making chlorine and no real faults are flashing on the control, I wouldn’t be too worried about it.
  
  Reply
Blaise Barrette

July 30, 2022

Only half of my cell gets clogged up and the other half stays clean. Should I have it checked or is this normal?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  August 31, 2022
  
  Even with the cell’s reverse polarity feature, the scale will still form on the plates. Give the cell an acid soak and it should clear the blockage. If the cell is still producing chlorine, it should be fine.
  
  Reply
Chris Wehr chris_wehr@hotmail.com

March 10, 2023

Hi I have a Hayward extended life Turbocell 940-W with Hayward Goldline Pro Logic, displaying voltage and amp, but not producing chlorine or very little (not like normal). I know have it to 100% and super chlorinate. And get very little chlorine. Salt level fine 3200. Chemical level fine. I fear the cell is going bad. Looks fine inside. Flow and temp fine. ?????chris_wehr@hotmail.com

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  March 13, 2023
  
  What are the voltage and amperage values displayed by the unit?
  
  What are the most recent Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine test results? What are the cya levels?
  
  Reply
Joshua Marzolf

April 16, 2023

My salt cell does not have a T-? Written on it. How do I confirm it is a T-5? I run it as a t-5 but in two years have not been able to generate chlorine. It only says “Blue Essence salt Cell” on the cell and 20,000 gallon pool.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  April 18, 2023
  
  How many metal plates are in the cell?
  
  Reply
Brett W.

March 14, 2024

My “Generating” light is not on at all although the power light stays on. System appears to be generating because the pool looks good. Did my “Generating” light burn out?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  March 18, 2024
  
  What percentage output is your salt system set to? Salt cells don’t throttle their production if you set it to 40% output, for example. If you set the cell to 50% output, the cell will only generate 30 minutes out of any given hour.
  
  Reply
Malama

June 6, 2024

Nothing on my control screen indicates there is an issue, and my t-15 salt cell is perfectly clean… however when I check my pool chemistry, I show very low – to – no chlorine… About to bring the cell itself to a big box for a test to see if it still works. Anything I should check in the controller itself?

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 7, 2024
  
  To me, it sounds like either you output percentage is not set high enough, and/or your pump isn’t scheduled to run long enough.
  
  Reply
Pam

June 10, 2024

I put my pool on superchlorinate for 24 hours and when I put it back to auto, I can’t get the chlorine or temp reading. Just get numbers like 3.20, 29, 26.5, 4.83, 44P3.30??

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 13, 2024
  
  They may have inadvertently switched it to metric. It does not look like a Fahrenheit temperature or a US-measure salt level.
  
  To change an AquaRite from metric mode to US standard:
  Press the Diagnostics button once
  While the temperature is still in Celsius, move the switch up to Super Chlorinate and then back to Auto
  After about 30 seconds, the unit should return to its default reading and display US measurements
  
  Reply
doug

June 13, 2024

I have a aqua write 900 it was working fine till I looked at it today and now all the bottom lights are on and the display has -pcb- any one have a ideal what this means.

Reply
1. Matthew Simmons
  
  June 14, 2024
  
  The AquaRite flashing the pcb code, means you need to replacee your main board p/n GLXPCBRITE.
  
  Reply