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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Shannon Avatar

    Help. Everything is flashing!!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Do you really mean “everything” or is it just a couple of lights? Is the LCD screen flashing, blank, or showing a code? The more information you provide the better chance someone has to answer it.

      Have you tried turning it off and on again?

  2. Patti Spann Avatar

    Unfortunately, we did not take a photo of the T-Cell before removing it to change it. How do I know which end of the T-Cell 9 goes toward the water flow coming in and which end points toward the Salt Generator?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The cell’s cord is usually on the outflow side of the plumbing sequence. See below graphic.

      aquarite cell orientation

    2. SirBB Avatar

      It does not matter

  3. Tom Parisi Avatar

    Matthew Simmons, On 5/1/20 at 7:47am, you corresponded with a gentleman, Matt Lantierel…….I am having exact same issue but never saw if issue was ever corrected. My salt reads 3200, spot on with my salt meter, salt strip and tested by Ducky’s. Next morning reading will be 700/900…Check salt / Check Cell…..My T-cell 9 is four years old and has been cleaned regularly as per instructions. Never has any type of build up…..I have the correct cell selected, voltage and amps all read spot on….I replaced my cell, even though when my pool shop tested it and it showed good….Nothing changed….I now replaced my PCB board, with OEM, no change…..seems that there’s more than myself having this issue…..Has there been any one that has found a solution…

  4. Dan Avatar

    My pcb display indicates a salt level of 1600 But my salt level tester indicates 3200. I have re calibrated the control board and still have the same indications. Any thoughts as to what the problem is?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you taken a sample of your pool water to the pool store for verification of your refults? Salt system boards get out of whack all the time and test strips can also foul up, so I like to get outside confirmation of what is what.

  5. Nik Avatar

    Hello, just bought a house with salt water pool built in 2012… We have a Blue Essence chlorinator with a new t-15 cell. The motherboard was replaced about 2 years ago according to some receipts that the previous homeownes shared. My issue is that every morning when the pump turns on I have to recalibrate the chlorinator. The check salt light is on, it’s not generating and the salt reads around 700, also the correct salt cell is selected (t-15). The salt level is 3400 today. Once it’s recalibrated, the chlorinator generates as it should for the remainder of the day. What could be causing it to reset everyday? Thanks for answering all of our questions here!!

  6. James Zinkel Avatar

    I bought a new Hayward salt cell this season. I cleaned it per instructions, re-installed. Now the display shows nothing.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The first thing to check is that power is actually reaching the unit. If you flipped the breaker before changing out the cell, make sure you have flipped it back. I’ve made this mistake a time or two. This is in the article and tells you things to check:

      Power LED Not On
      Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
      Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
      If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
      The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

      1. Wayne Redfern Avatar

        I have done these things. The system has power and the fuse is not blown as I checked both with a voltmeter. The system is fed by the power to the pool pump which was knocked off by lightening a couple of days ago. When i reset the breaker the pump came on but not the salt system. Is there a reset switch or is it likely a board was blown?

  7. Steve Avatar

    My Salt level is reading 0.00 . Before a rain storm it was 2400. I cleaned out some gunk in the cell but it is still showing 0.00

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Not to sound like a broken record but have you done any of the troubleshooting in the guide? IF so, what did you do?

      Did you try recalibrating the salt level? Did you make sure the correct TCELL is selected in your settings? Something may have been reset in the control during the storm, either from a power outage or some other irregularity.

    2. Joe m Avatar

      Steve, just happened to me. hard rain storm and salt levels went down slowly from 3100 to 100. Checked many things. Clean cell. put in more salt. Any solutions found?

  8. GFH Avatar

    I have an AquaTrol above ground generator that was installed about 5 or 6 years ago. I ran diagnostics and it says my software version is 1.45. I need too buy a new T-Cell -3 but the store is saying for new T-Cell I require software revision 1.5 or higher.

    Do I need to upgrade my software? How do I do that?

    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you replace a TCELL3 with another TCELL3 (current part number W3T-CELL-3), then you should not need to make any changes to your control box.

  9. Mac H. Avatar

    Matthew,
    I have a situation I’ve not seen addressed yet – system is not generating chlorine and I only have the power LED lit with power on. Display seems normal. I’ve replaced the current limiter cap with no effect.
    Any idea what’s going on and what I can do next to resolve this?
    Thanks much for any help!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What cell number are you using? Also, is the correct cell type selected in the control panel’s setting?

      What are the amps and volts values shown in the diagnostics menu on the panel?

  10. Jeff Willey Avatar

    Troubleshooting a controller board and have never seen this symptom. Goes though calibration and start up perfectly yet does not show a salt level indication on rough setting or displayed setting. Can anyone tell me the components responsible for salt sensing?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What are the cell volts and amps reading in the diagnostics? Is the correct cell type selected in the settings?

      1. chris Avatar

        my first number is 30.5, the second is zero

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