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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Cesar Avatar

    After connecting the device, the flow led flashes for one minute and turns off. At that moment the generation led turns on and turns off after a few seconds. All the leds remain off and the display shows the salt concentration 2900. At no time does the power led turn on. I checked the fuse and it’s good. The cell is new. Voltage cell is 10.7V and current is 0. Any idea of the problem??

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      From the article:

      If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.

      1. Cesar Avatar

        the termistor was blown. I remplace it and now the sistem works!! Thanks for the schema!!

        1. Jon Avatar

          What is a termistor? I’m having the same issue. Thanks

          1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Thermistor measures the temperature of surfaces, liquids, and ambient gasses.

    2. Mark Avatar

      I have the exact same problem. Can you please tell me how you fixed it? Do I need to change out the board?

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Did you confirm the correct cell size is listed in your diagnostics menu? Also, is the pump running when you’re watching your control?

  2. Susan Avatar

    Our unit comes on for about 15 secs. Then we hear a click and the whole display goes blank.

      1. Fred Kempel Avatar

        Should the Power LED be off when the pump is not running? My pump is set for a 12 hour cycle run. The Power LED comes on along with the Generating LED about two hours after the pump cycle starts. How can I get the power and salt generating coordinate with pump cycle.

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          You can put the pump and salt chlorinator on the same Intermatic timer. This will ensure that the generator is only on when the pumpis on.

    1. Kyle Avatar

      How did it end up? Mine just did the same

  3. Brenda Bell Avatar

    All components of the Aqua Rite System are showing good readings and appears to be all set correctly. However it is not generating enough chlorine and we are adding chlorine more than we should. Anyone have this issue or have any recommendations?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Is this a new or older installation? If it is new, you may have undersized the cell, or your water chemistry is imbalanced, preventing the chlorine from working efficiently and effectively. If it an older installation, I would again check the water chemistry to make sure it is balanced correctly.

      1. Kathy Sanders Avatar

        What are you referring to when you say installation? I ask because I have a new salt cell T-15, which is correct for my hayward. My chlorinator generator shows all the readings which match pretty closely to my water report from the store, but where the chlorine level should be showing, preferrably anywhere from 1-4 ppm, it is just reading zero, and I can’t figure out why,

    2. tom Avatar

      check your stabilizer level

  4. Ontario Rob Avatar

    just replaced t15 on a rev 1.45 aqua rite and the default salt reading now is ‘4’. Tried recalibration and no change. otherwise all else seems to read ok.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’d check the cell number just to confirm it is the TCELL15. The early revisions don’t work with the TCELL5 or TCELL9.

      What are the amp and volt readings for the new cell?

  5. Justin Avatar

    I have perhaps a really basic question – I just cannot get one side of my salt cell to seal with the union. It won’t stop leaking. I replaced the o-ring and it still leaks out the same spot. I think the problem is a nick in the face of the salt cell that the union’s o-ring seals against, but I can’t feel anything there so it’s not like a giant burr or anything. Any ideas how to address this?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I would try a couple of turns of Teflon tape on the threads to create a better seal. Without seeing the union and setup, it is hard to say what is causing it but check for warping of the nut.

  6. Brad Miller mbrad39972@hotmail.com Avatar

    After troubleshooting using your TS guide, I found on page 36 where it says to check the top rectifier I have 24VAC from the board (where the orange wire plugs into) to the ground. Not the 12VAC that it says should be there. Is there something on the board I need to change? I have it set for a T9 cell. Please contact me at mbrad39972@hotmail.com

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The other rectifier is rated as 18-33 VDC. On page 30 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide, it goes into depth about troubleshooting that rectifier.

  7. Brad Miller Avatar

    I am getting 24VAC from top Rectifier to PCB Input, says it should be 12VAC. Is this rectifier bad?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the voltage between the orange and black is not 12VAC, you need to replace the rectifier or the board.

  8. Louis Lopez Avatar

    Power on LED is intermittently on or off. Power is always present at supply input.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      When the control box is on, go to the diagnostics menu and give me the listed T-CELL type, amps, and voltage.

      How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values

  9. Tony K Avatar

    Aquarite is not powering up at all. 240v Input voltage is present. 24V after the transformer is present. 20amp fuse is not blown. Any suggestions?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If power is reaching the box, getting past the transformer, and the fuse is good, it sounds like the main PCB is the issue. The correct replacement would be the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) – GLX-PCB-RITE

  10. Susan Vallance Avatar

    We have a Hayward Aqua Plus system. We are getting a reading o the remote stating chlorinator is turned off High Temperature. The salt cylinder is clean.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What does your water temp say? Though it is a different control, they use the same cell; so if you are getting a temperature reading of 215, you need to replace the cell.

      1. Patsy Palmese Avatar

        my hayward salt water generator is not getting any reading totally blank

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          I think the article mention if there are no lights or display showing, then you probably need to change the Hayward AquaRite Main PCB GLX-PCB-RITE

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