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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Todd Avatar

    I have an older mineral springs (bioguard) salt generator system. The check mineral level light and check cell light both stay on constantly and wont go off. The salt in the pool is around 3100 and the mineral levels are all fine. Ive tried the rest and recalibrate options like everyone recommends but i cannot get the salt level to countdown on the lcd display like all the videos show is suppose to happen. Would that mean that something has to be out on the board or cell? How do you know which part needs replaced in a situation like this if thats the case?

  2.  Avatar

    My salt reading is 2000 but I know I have plenty of salt, it was reading 3400 the day before, when I try to recalibrate the reading it does not change. I have cleaned the cell and all of the amps are in range. The cell was replaced two years ago, any suggestions ?

  3. Kathy Sanders Avatar

    What are you referring to when you say installation? I ask because I have a new salt cell T-15, which is correct for my hayward. My chlorinator generator shows all the readings which match pretty closely to my water report from the store, but where the chlorine level should be showing, preferrably anywhere from 1-4 ppm, it is just reading zero, and I can’t figure out why. thoughts?

  4.  Avatar

    Question my Aquaririte is 3 years old. This week I notices that if I turn down the chlorine production rate….the display stops at 5…I can no longer get it to zero….I know I can turn off production by sliding the button down…but should I be worried?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If it is still making chlorine and no real faults are flashing on the control, I wouldn’t be too worried about it.

  5. John K Avatar

    I have replaced the Aqua Rite printed circuit board and the T-Cell-9. Display seems to be reading correctly and shows the cell is not generating. None of the indicating lights are on. Even the power light is not on. I checked the 20A fuse and it is good. Any suggestions?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What do you have the output percentage set to? What happens when you switch the output to super-chlorinate?

    2. Kirk Cordell Avatar

      Did you figure this out. Ours is doing the same thing.

    3. Piper62j Avatar

      That’s the problem I had..There is a large black thin wall capacitor on the circuit board which I replaced.. If it is bulging and appears swollen and burned, replace it.. They are cheap and all you need is a soldering iron.

  6. Jeffery Alessi Avatar

    I’ve replace the salt cell, circuit board, and flow switch and my Acurite is still reading high salt. I sent a sample to the store and my salt level is 3400 and the reading shown is 4300. Don’t know how to fix this. I’ve done the reset and it still showing 4300

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Do you have the correct cell size chosen in your diagnostics menu?

  7. Stefano Avatar

    Hi, we just installed a new AquaRite unit and it has been running for 48 hrs The salt level is 3100 ppm (pool store also confirmed and tested the water, no issues detected with the water). I calibrated the unit to 3100 ppm. The unit works fine for approximately 4- 6 hours, then the Check Salt and Inspect Cell flashes (salt level on the unit reads 2600 ppm). Is there a break in period for the unit or do I need to call the technician? Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      There isn’t a break-in period for these units. I’d call the install tech for troubleshooting.

    2. Gerardo Avatar

      Hi Stefano,
      I’m having a similar problem as you mention here. What did the tech end up doing to fix?

  8. Tina Lisi Avatar

    Hello, my salt generator seems to be always be producing at 100% no matter what my output dial is set at. All the readings (salt level, amps, etc) are in the correct range. Does the mother board need replacing? I have a t-15 cell.
    Thank you.

    1.  Avatar

      Just a thought… Do you have it set at super chlorinate ? If so, it will always read 100%. Move switch to center position and adjust dial to a percentage that you think it needs.

  9. Ken Avatar

    My check salt generator station even after I clean it out

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you checked the cell’s voltage, amperage, or done anything other troubleshooting?

  10. Jeff Smith Avatar

    Hey buddy. Did you figure out your problem?
    Mine is doing same thing.

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