Home / Articles / Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

Related Videos

332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Chris Dev Avatar

    After a very heavy rainstorm my salt reading went from 3200 to 800! I added 4x40lb bags of salt and the reading eventually went up to 1200. I added another 7 bags and the reading is now 1800 have not yet verified the reading with a test strip but this does not seem correct. My pool is approximately 27000 gals.

  2. doug Avatar

    I have a aqua write 900 it was working fine till I looked at it today and now all the bottom lights are on and the display has -pcb- any one have a ideal what this means.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The AquaRite flashing the pcb code, means you need to replacee your main board p/n GLXPCBRITE.

  3. Pam Avatar

    I put my pool on superchlorinate for 24 hours and when I put it back to auto, I can’t get the chlorine or temp reading. Just get numbers like 3.20, 29, 26.5, 4.83, 44P3.30??

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      They may have inadvertently switched it to metric. It does not look like a Fahrenheit temperature or a US-measure salt level.

      To change an AquaRite from metric mode to US standard:
      Press the Diagnostics button once
      While the temperature is still in Celsius, move the switch up to Super Chlorinate and then back to Auto
      After about 30 seconds, the unit should return to its default reading and display US measurements

  4. Malama Avatar

    Nothing on my control screen indicates there is an issue, and my t-15 salt cell is perfectly clean… however when I check my pool chemistry, I show very low – to – no chlorine… About to bring the cell itself to a big box for a test to see if it still works. Anything I should check in the controller itself?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      To me, it sounds like either you output percentage is not set high enough, and/or your pump isn’t scheduled to run long enough.

  5. Brett W. Avatar

    My “Generating” light is not on at all although the power light stays on. System appears to be generating because the pool looks good. Did my “Generating” light burn out?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What percentage output is your salt system set to? Salt cells don’t throttle their production if you set it to 40% output, for example. If you set the cell to 50% output, the cell will only generate 30 minutes out of any given hour.

  6. Martin Avatar

    Hi, I have a PL7700 system, after power all the LEDs are lit permanently. They stay on there forever and the small LCD is completely off. Any idea?
    Thank yoU!

  7. Joshua Marzolf Avatar

    My salt cell does not have a T-? Written on it. How do I confirm it is a T-5? I run it as a t-5 but in two years have not been able to generate chlorine. It only says “Blue Essence salt Cell” on the cell and 20,000 gallon pool.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      How many metal plates are in the cell?

  8. Joe DiGeorgio Avatar

    We have an Aquarite with t-cell-15. The main box is from 2003 and the cell was last replaced in 2014. We just had a new pump installed and right around that same time the Aquarite started acting up. I just noticed the lower 4 LED were all lit red. The LCD was blank. And no other lights. I found I could get it working again by simply cutting the power and turning the chlorinate slide to off. Then flip the power back on and slowly slide the button up to auto. It would then work normally again with the power and generate chlorine LED lit. But then a day or two later I would find it back to 4 red LEDs (no flow, low salt, high salt and inspect all lit). Sometimes they are solid and sometime blinking. Sometime the upper 4 green LEDs would all be on. Amperage is 5.72 and voltage is 26. Any thoughts on why the intermittent issues and what could be the cause of this strange behavior?

  9. Chris Wehr chris_wehr@hotmail.com Avatar

    Hi I have a Hayward extended life Turbocell 940-W with Hayward Goldline Pro Logic, displaying voltage and amp, but not producing chlorine or very little (not like normal). I know have it to 100% and super chlorinate. And get very little chlorine. Salt level fine 3200. Chemical level fine. I fear the cell is going bad. Looks fine inside. Flow and temp fine. ?????chris_wehr@hotmail.com

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What are the voltage and amperage values displayed by the unit?

      What are the most recent Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine test results? What are the cya levels?

  10. Blaise Barrette Avatar

    Only half of my cell gets clogged up and the other half stays clean. Should I have it checked or is this normal?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Even with the cell’s reverse polarity feature, the scale will still form on the plates. Give the cell an acid soak and it should clear the blockage. If the cell is still producing chlorine, it should be fine.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *