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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Jordan Avatar

    Hi there, I have a Hayward Goldline Aquatrol. I’ve cleaned the cell, recalibrated the salt levels to match the salt levels from the pool store (3200ppm) and all my chemical levels are perfect.
    The problem is that the check cell and check salt lights remain on. The displays read zero for my salt level (both readings, average and instint) and amp reads zero. Nothing seems to work, thanks.

  2. Carlos Avatar

    I’ve just replaced my T-3 cell and the current limiter on the PCB as I was having problems with the system turning on and off repeatedly. Now I get the Power and the Generating LED’s on for as long as I have the system running. The salt level is reading 3700 (a bit high but apparently not enough to shut the system down), voltage and amp are within range, everything seems to be fine but after running the system on superchlorinate overnight and another 8 hours on 100%, I’m still getting zero chlorine. What can possibly be wrong?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is your water chemistry? CYA, Phosphates, pH, Alkalinity etc. These are all things that are required knowledge when solving these issues.

  3. John Avatar

    I’m getting no chlorine out of my system despite new equipment.

    New GLX-PCB-RITE circuit board and new T-15 cell.
    All chemicals are balanced within range.
    Pool store shows salt love is 2900.
    My Readouts are:
    > 3300
    > 75 degrees
    > 26.5 volts
    > 6.29 amps
    > 80%
    > -3300
    > AL-1
    > r 1.59
    > t-15
    >
    > Ran the system overnight at 80%. Chlorine in
    > pool remained zero.
    > Ran the system overnight on Superchlorinate.
    > Chlorine in pool remained zero and Superchlorinate indicator remained
    > lit even after 12 hours.
    >
    > What am I missing?
    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you have an AquaRite, the AL-1 should be an AL-0. Try changing that value.

  4. Gerald Avatar

    Hi I have an aqua plus system with T15 Cell, cell and main board have been replaced recently. The unit will start normally and chlorinate but after 20 minutes it will shut down and new cycle would not start, i have to manually do diagnostics and start the new cycle. I have run system in both + and – and runs fine but after that it will not re start. Salt is 3100, flow is on, no temperature issues, and no warning lights. whwn is on it works but once it goes int a new cycle it will not start to Chlorinate.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’ve never heard of that issue? Have you tried refitting the board? Just a confirmation the issue is not stemming from an error during the installation?

  5. Jay Avatar

    Matthew, How does one know when the Hayward AquaRite control box for the salt generator has reached the end of it’s life?
    Thanks,

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The control box has three major components, the main PCB, display board and the transformer. If after the troubleshooting you realize that you need to replace two of the three major parts of the control box, then it is likely better to replace the box.

  6. Byron Avatar

    I have an Aqua Rite system with a T cell 15. When pushing the diagnostic button it comes to a R 1.45 then back to salt number. It never displays the T cell number. Is something wrong with the Cell or system? Unit installed in 2009. Also what is R 1.45. is this number correct? It also has AL – 1. Is this correct? Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The R1.45 is the firmware revision.

      Usually, if the T-Cell value does not show up in the menu it is because it is not plugged in properly. Check the cable connections

      1. Mike Avatar

        I’ve got a Aqua Rite with firmware R1.40 and mine doesn’t dhow the T cell number either. I think since only the T-15 was supported on versions earlier than R1.50 the there was no reason to have that display option in the firmware.

  7. Nancey Avatar

    Hi. My salt machine says no flow then shuts down. All the lights go off even power. I turn it back on and it just does the same think. I ve checked the connections. It’s all good. Nothing obstructing. Can you please help. What could it be. It reads that my salt is at 2700. Could that be the problem? But the check salt does not come on. Only power and blinking no flow then it shuts down.

    Thanks.

  8. Sean Avatar

    I’m having a no chorine generating issue.
    When I first flip the pump on readings are
    1500 salt
    90degrees
    28volts
    .78-.90amps!
    O
    Then it will switch off turning check cell and low salt light on. Had the salt tested and is at 3300 does this sound like a bad cell or a board issue with the extremely low amps?

  9. Stella Avatar

    We have an aqua rite t-cell 15. Salt level has been tested professionally and it is a little over 3000 ppm. However, even after re-calibrating the cell to that reading level, the reading keeps going down gradually, over a period of a few hours, until it reaches about 2300 at which point it stops generating. We have repeated this process several times over the past week and it continues to do the same thing. Does this mean cell replacement?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Correct, the cell is the issue in this equation. Replace it, and the system should return to operating normally.

  10. Hendrik Avatar

    have an aqua rite controller and T9 cell that does not seem to be generating. The salt level on the display was low so I added salt but when I checked the salt level with test strips it showed a value around 6000 ppm! Now the display shows a level of 100 ppm even after cleaning the cell (which btw was not visibly diirty at all). Is the cell ready for replacement? Does this value of 100 mean something? Any help is appreciated.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Yes, it sounds like your TCell is ready to be replaced. The only thing that I could think of that would show 100 on the board is “100 P” which is referencing to the board being set at 100% production.

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