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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Scott Avatar

    What would cause the cell to produce too much chlorine when only set on 15% ? I’ve tested several times and the chlorine is dark yellow in the test tube. The cell is a T-15 and is 8 years old.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Because it is autumn, if you are in a colder climate, chlorine does not get burned off like it normally would do in summer. So your chlorine could be lingering around for longer, and your cell is just adding to it. Turn off the cell until the chlorine drops to a lower level.

      1. Scott Avatar

        Thanks Matthew. I also have the cover on so very little sunlight is hitting the pool.

  2. Roger Avatar

    Hi,
    I’ve been fighting with my Hayward salt system all year. It worked fine last year, this year, not so much.

    The pool holds roughly 15,000 gallons.

    All readings are within normal values, the only LEDs on the system that are on are POWER and GENERATING. I have the correct cell type selected. Even running @ 100% it’s generating zero chlorine. I’ve been adding powder chlorine, that too disappears in a day or two. Cyanuric acid is nominal. I have a floater with broken up chlorine tabs in the pool, that doesn’t seem to touch it. I’ve had the (new) salt cell and the pool water checked by my local Leslie’s — they say everything’s perfect. I’ve recalibrated the controller and the current is nominal in both polarities.

    This is crazy-making. Any suggestions?

    I emailed Hayward technical support, they said “your phosphorus levels are high”, I said, no, they’re not (<100PPM), they didn't want to discuss it after that.

  3. Marie Avatar

    I have a new cell bought in June. System ran fine, then it started coming on and off in a cycle of about 20-30 secs. The amps are all correct and I wonder if I need to replace board?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are there any alert lights? Have you tried recalibrating or cleaning the cell?

  4. Michelle Avatar

    Aquarite AQR9. Installed pool earlier this summer and it was consistently generating chlorine and weekly levels were great. Now All I am getting is a power LED but the “generating” light never comes on, even when I dial it up to 100% or try superchlorinate. Salt reads 3300. Pump is on, so that’s not the issue.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are you receiving any other lights or alerts on the control board besides the ones you mentioned?

      Have you checked the cell for scaling? Has the cell been cleaned since it was installed?

  5. Barrie Avatar

    Hi. I have an Aquarite T-cell-15 Above ground Goldline Aquarite chlorinatimg system andwhen I switch on the power, all of the LED lights flash rapidly continuously and the PCB control board clicks erpeated in groups of four fast clicks at a time with a slightly onger gap between the groups of four clicks. Of course it is not working at all and I have had to disconnect the power as it’s power and my pool pump power share the same on/off switch. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I have called and spoken to Hayward technical support in Ontario and they are supposed to call me back but have not done so as yet. Any help would be appreciated.

  6. Mike VP Avatar

    Here’s an FYI. I have the Aquarite with a t-cell-9. Never have an issue, it is checked when lit, and cleaned when required. Unit blew the fuse the other day, everything looked fine. Replaced the fuse, and it came back until it tried to make chlorine. Off position, it stayed fine, auto or super, it blew the fuse.
    I replaced the cell and it is working perfectly fine again. So I am figuring the old cell shorted out. Four years to the day.

  7. Billy Avatar

    AquaRite unit says salt is 3500, test strips and a separate tester show 2850. tried to recalibrate generator but the numbers flash by so quickly I cannot read them. any suggestions on how to slow it down so I can select the correct salt level?

  8. Dan Robinson Avatar

    Matt – I replaced my t9 cell with a new T9 this spring. I just checked my chlorine and levels are zero! I’m looking at the panel and the power and generating are off. When I turned circuit breaker off and on again, the power and generating light came on for 5 seconds and went back out. What’s it doing?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      In the last part of the article we mention:

      Power LED Not On
      1) Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
      2) Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
      3) If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
      4) The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

      1. Dan Robinson Avatar

        Thanks Matt, I checked the fuse tonight and it is not blown. When I flipped breaker on tonight, only salt ppm and no flow light came on. A few minutes later, no flow light goes out and only salt ppm number is displayed. I’m changing flow switch tomorrow to see if that helps. If nothing changes, should I replace the board?
        Thank you

        1. Abbey R Avatar

          I am having this same issue. Did we ever get a resolution to this?

  9. Gene Avatar

    Our system seems to be working properly in all aspects, except when we test our chlorine level it is very low if any at all. We’ve replaced cell recalibrated with no Success. We’ve had the system working fine for three years. This is an indoor pool that stays open year around. The pool also has heavy traffic. Up till this point we’ve never had a problem. Like I said all levels are within the ranges they should be brand new t 15 and controller set to t 15 any help would be appreciated.

    Our cya is between 0 and 30 and our manual states that 0 ppm is ideal. Is it possible that even though our controller isn’t showing any faults it may need to be replaced?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The CYA for a salt pool should be around 50-80, 0-30 is way too low. Your chlorine is being burned off because there isn’t enough CYA to protect it from the sun.

      1. Robert Avatar

        Truer words have not been posted regarding the Hayward salt systems and pool water in general, regardless of the type.

        I have found 60ppm is the sweet spot and keeps js away from sliding into the non-effective range of 90 ppm, where the chlorine becomes ineffective.

        I tell my client’s, the stabilizer is sunscreen for your pool’s water but too much of it isn’t a good thing.

        I have also found no two T15’s are the same.

        I have one client whose system is very robust and can handle 3400 ppm like a champ and I don’t have to turn the system off when adding 80 lbs of salt to it when it dips down to 2900 ppm.

        I also have another client less than 3 miles away from the one above that can’t go over 3200 ppm and I have to shut the cell off and let it run 24 hrs before firing it back up and can only put 40 lbs in at a time.

        Less I want to blow the board/chip.

        I do believe Hayward has addressed this issue with the new series they came out with, nonetheless.

        Good solid advice Matthew.

  10. Graham Avatar

    Hayward Aqua Rite with T3 cell. All lights function as normal. All amps and voltages are within range, but when I test for Chlorine, none there. Any ideas?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is your CYA level? Has there been heavy rain or pool parties recently?

      Try shocking the pool and switching the system to super chlorinate.

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