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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Tom Waldrop Avatar

    What does it mean if all LEDs are on and the screen is blank?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the cell is still producing chlorine and the lights are operating as normal, the display board’s lcd screen is likely dead. I don’t think Hayward offers the screen as a replacement part.

  2. Leo-iii Avatar

    The system is running but my “No flow” LED is lit. Does that mean that the cell needs replacement?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What do you mean the “system is running”? Is the cell producing chlorine? The control panel is on and other lights are as normal? Or do you mean the pump is on and pushing water?

      1. frank Avatar

        pool is running no flow is on

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide?

  3. dave butler Avatar

    i tested with multimeter and found the replacement board with jumpers for 220 ac as described as the default setting had about 240 VAC across and the next test across the yellows showed 24 – the following test across the 20 amp fuse that keeps blowing shows 22.6 – also the replacement 20 amp fused i bought have prongs that are too wide to fit on the connectors on the board – i held one up with needle nosed pliers to make connection and it quickly blew the circuit as the others had done. i can’t test black and red across main board without 20 amp fuse that works – as of now there is almost no current across black and red on main. should i return replacement board i bought as faulty? if not what do i do next? thanks for your help.

  4. Chris Avatar

    I replaced the PCB because my power and generating led’s were not coming on. The LCD however is displaying properly. After the PCB replacement, the power & generating lights still do not turn on. The cell is clean and less than 6 months old. Any idea on what should I replace next?

  5. dave butler Avatar

    this is what i bought —
    Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main for Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination – how do i make sure circuit voltage settings are correct?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If you have a multimeter, test the leads that are connecting to the unit’s terminal board

  6. dave butler Avatar

    my haward aqua rite kept turning off after a minute or so – so i bought a replacement logic board which i just installed but the 20 amp fuse blew as soon as i turned the power back on – i replaced it with the 20 amp fuse from the old board but the same thing happened – what is my next step?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The AquaLogic board is different than an AquaRite board. Are you sure you purchased and installed the correct board? Also, when you install a new board you need to make sure the circuit voltage settings correct before applying power. Check the circuit for any faults, and for the correct voltage so you can confirm your board is set up correctly.

  7. Tang Avatar

    Hello, I have a aquarite t-cell 15, it developed a problem recently. I have added bags of salt in there not long ago. The salt level reading was ok to start with, then just lowers down to 2700 in a few days. So, When the cell was generating, I checked the instant salt level, it always says a weird number, like -2000, -1900… I guess this drags the average salt reading down in a few days? The pool store said my salt level is 3400. But my pool has 0 chlorine in there! Also, when it is generating, the current is about 3.4A, this seems low compare to before, but i am not really sure. Do I seem to have a bad cell, or bad circuit board? Any suggestions? Thanks!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Can you explain what troubleshooting you have done besides add salt? Did you clean the cell? Have you recalibrated the salt level?

  8. Maria Avatar

    We are having the light issue with the power light and will check the fuse, but the screen is reading “cold”. What does that mean. We have a Swim Pure Plus system. Everything is running fine as far as we know. The water temp is in the 60s. It has never said this in the past

  9. Jesyca powell Avatar

    What is a -pcb-? That’s what my aqua rite thing is displaying. Also leds are lit for high salt, no flow, inspect cell.

    1. Jesyca powell Avatar

      Sorry, I know very little about our pool and equipment.. but i want to know if something’s broken before I tell my husband… because if it is there’s a 94% chance I’m the one who broke it.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Hello Jesyca – the replacement main PCB for the Aquarite is part number GLXPCBRITE. If your display board is flashing the PCB code then replacing it is your next step. If your system was made after 2010, the aftermarket Pureline PCB PL7100 is an option.

  10. Stephen Linsky Avatar

    I replaced a t-15 with a t-9 cell on a aqua rite originally installed in 2007 (I learned the age of the unit after installing the new cell). After installing the new cell I found that the board does not have the option for choosing a different cell type. I guess my question is if there is a way to update the board to be able to work with a t-9? Now that I’ve spent a bunch of $ on the new cell, am I stuck having to get a whole new board as well to get the t-9 to work properly?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Yes, just replace the old board with the new style. The Aquarite replacement main PCB is the GLXPCBRITE

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