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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. SDutta Avatar

    My aqua-rite generator have blank display screen with the power light on but no other lights…can someone advise on the potential cause. It worked till yesterday.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the cell is still creating chlorine then it is likely a display board issue, if it is not creating chlorine then the main board is the issue.

  2. Murlinator Avatar

    Hello.

    Aqua Rite unit with the T-15 cell.

    My temperature reads about 50 degrees hotter than actual water temp and I can’t figure out why. I installed the cell new last fall. I have inspected the cell for buildup and it is clear.

    Any ideas?

    Is it possible that my VS pump is heating up the water enough to cause this reading? The pipes coming into the cell don’t feel warm to the touch.

    Thanks for your help!

  3.  Avatar

    Hi Matt. I have an Aqua Plus system. The problem I’m having is my super chlorinate works fine when I test it but when I test it on just chlorinate at 60% I get nothing. If I super chlorinate my pool tests ok for chlorine. If I just leave it on chlorinate, in a day or so I have no chlorine in my pool. I put a dummie on and when I put the chlorinater in a bucket of water it generates on super chlorinate but not chlorinate. Any idea what is going on?

  4. Joe Avatar

    The power light does not come on. I reset the circuit breaker and the “generating” light came on for 5 seconds and then went out. The power light never came back on. I even bought an entire new circuit board and this made no difference. Could it be the transformer? Can those be purchased? How do I test it?

  5. Nicki Avatar

    Hello- our system is less than a year old and works great. About a week ago our Power LED and no flow light stay on when the system should be “off”. It also shows all readings when it should be off. The system is still generating and gives correct readings. It seems as there is no way to shut it off. Any suggestions?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      It sounds like you have the system wired in a way that never shuts off power to the panel even if the motor pump is turned off. You could either re-wire it or since it is working fine keep it the way it is.

  6. Denys Avatar

    Hi,
    Installed new Aqua Plus in September, T-15 cell. Was working just great last fall.
    This year, after opening… it’s not generating enough chlorine. I have some very little amount of it, small fraction from what it suppose to be.
    – salt was checked and added, shows 3200 or 3300
    – Actual cell was checked, was perfectly clean
    – ~26 volts and ~5.4 Amp
    – configured for T-15 cell
    – temperature 60F
    Main concern, that it’s generating something…by filling about 20% from the original.
    So much appreciated for any suggestions

    1. Denys Avatar

      At the moment…Chlorine stabilizer was added and it started to work much better…
      Didn’t know that even under solar cover that thing matters so much

  7. Ray in Venice FL Avatar

    Is there anyone still there who is replying to comments and replies any more?????
    Thank You!

  8. Layne Wyckoff/corvettelayne@gmail.com Avatar

    I have an Aquarite/Goldline chlorinator and t-15 salt cell (r-1.4) for fourteen years. It’s installed on 21,000 gallon liner pool, so I expected the salt cell to exceed the 5 year limit, but can’t believe we were able to get an additional 9 years. Eight years ago I had to replace the currrent limiter on the PC board, but I initially thought I had to replace the salt cell and ordered a Compupool GRC40GH, which is suppose to be a direct replacement. I never replaced the the salt cell and I have stored the Compupool GRC40GH salt cell in my garage for nine years. I have replaced the current limiter two more times on the PC board and have had no issues with the SWG system from Aquarite/Goldline, until this year when the generator stopped generating and the salinity output reading levels started to drop significantly. I replace the salt cell and recalibrated the salinity reading and hit 3200ppm, which was just measured at the pool store. Everything appeared to be working fine and the the salinity numbers started to measure 4000ppm and 1000ppm over the next few days. I kept recalibrating the system, but the salinity now reads 3800ppm, which is too high and now the NO FLOW LED does not illuminate and flash for the first 10 to 30 seconds before the GENERATION LED illuminates. During AUTO start-up we have the GENERATION LED illuminated immediately. I can here the relay energize on the PC board, which I assume is actually sending power to the salt cell to generate chlorine. Is it possible for the flow meter/relay to fail in a closed state? Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? Is the software corrupted on a EEPROM/microprocessor? if it is; is the software on the main PC board or is on the smaller LED PC board. I going to disconnect the flow switch tomorrow and read the voltage and current outputs no closely. It appears after I recalibrate the system that we are generating chlorine at the salt cell, as I do see some small bubbles through the site glass area, however I’m not seeing an increase in chlorine levels, like I should, after two full days running around the clock. Any suggestions in troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thank You

  9. Ray in Venice FL Avatar

    Why won’t my Hayward Swim-Pure Plus hold the “salt display” reading. All the other readings seem to be within range and hold, but the salt reading drops down and goes into shut off mode.
    here are the readings I have:
    1. 85 water temp
    2. 25.2 cell voltage
    3. 4.08 cell current-amps
    4. 51% output
    5. 3000 Instant Salinity (this continually drops down to shut off mode)
    Everything seems correct except the salinity drops until it hits shutdown zone. It usually takes about a day
    for it to get there (maybe 2 days), but then I have to reset it to up around 3000. Readings from pool store are always at mid to high 3000’s when I take water there weekly.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you cleaned the cell since this problem has started?

      1. Ray in Venice FL Avatar

        Yes, and it looks clean with no buildup apparent from either end. I HAVE NOT, however, ever cleaned it using a partial acid solution because every time that I have cleaned it using a hose there was never an obvious buildup that was visible.

      2. Ray in Venice FL Avatar

        I replied about 4 days ago, but have not received a response………..

  10. John in Phoenix Avatar

    Hello all. I have a Hayward T-15 system. I replaced the cell 2 or 3 years ago, and the board 2 years ago. I have proper salt, the cell generates chlorine, BUT the “Desired output %” will not increase over 18 no matter how I spin the dial. It will DECREASE, but will not increase over 18. I can switch to Super Chlorinate the display reads 100. Any suggestions on what is going on? Thanks!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The knob mechanism may be faulty. As I see it there are two solutions: replace the knob piece of the display board or replace the whole display board. Those small gadgets pieces are available at local or online electronic parts stores. If you want to replace the whole board there you have the Hayward PCB or the aftermarket Pureline PCB

      1. John in Phoenix Avatar

        Thank you sir. I greatly appreciate the insight.

      2. John in Phoenix Avatar

        One further question, do you all sell the knob? If so, do you have a part #?

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          We do not, Hayward doesn’t list a part number for it.

          1. John in Phoenix Avatar

            Thank you sir.

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