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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1. Michelle Avatar

    Matthew, earlier this summer I was going nuts because I had the right amount of salt but no chlorine was being generated. After finding this blog I figured out that my T-9 cell system was set to T-5 on the panel. I reset it to T-9 and was getting chlorine the rest of the summer. Over the past week our pool has turned green and when I checked the FC it was down to 0. Checked the panel again and it was set to T-5. No one has touched it. No clue why it is changing it’s settings on its own. Any suggestions on this?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Not sure, why it may have reset. Maybe there was a power outage that caused a change, or someone accidentally adjusted the wrong setting. I’d just keep an eye on it, so when you see water quality slipping, you can act quicker next time.

  2. Pat Avatar

    Thanks Matthew. Appreciate the input. Is this something i can do or should I have a professional install?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Take a look at this how-to guide, you can determine if it is something you can handle: How to Replace an Aqua Rite Display PCB

  3. Pat Avatar

    My aqua rite chlorine output knob is not working correctly. When setting it to 30 it reads on the display 80. Not sure how to reset/calibrate this. Would appreciate any insight.

    Thanks!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      That is a symptom of a bad display board and is not something that can be calibrated away. You will need either the PureLine AquaRite Replacement Display PCB Board or the OEM option GLX-PCB-DSP

  4. Roy Avatar

    All my lights are green but it doesnt appear to be making any chlorine. What gives?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      How do you know it is isn’t making chlorine?

      1. Craig Avatar

        Same problem. Lights are green, both if set to % or set to superchlorinate (appropriate lights with each setting. Amps and volts are good. Salt level says 3300 but test strip says 2800. Put in new cell a week ago and things chlorine was coming out. Now…nothing. I have a hose bib after the cell and test water before it gets to the pool.

        Is there a way to see if the cell just stopped working?

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          The bucket test is pretty simple. Get a 5-gallon bucket, fill it with pool water, then submerge the cell in the water. Next, turn on the SCG and set the output to 100% to make sure it is on and not oscillating between on/off. If the cell is making chlorine, there should bubbles floating out the cell which is a byproduct of the cell creating chlorine.

  5. Sven Jurgens Avatar

    Hi Matthew,

    My system stopped working yesterday. When I entered the pool shed there was a weird smell, as if a transistor or something had burned out. The inside of the box looked fine however and the logic board still seems to work correctly. It’s not the T-15 cell either as I’ve tried a different one (on loan, guaranteed working) with the same result.

    What happens is that it takes about 3 minutes for the power led to come on. Then when you set it to auto or super chlorinate, after about 8 seconds you hear the familiar click of the logic board turning the cell. 7 seconds later another click and both lights turn off again.
    It turns out it takes a couple minutes for the voltage to the cell to build back up which crashes back down as soon as the cell turns on.

    The board gives me this diagnostic info:
    Salinity: 2.90
    Temp: 27 (celcius)
    Voltage: slowly builds to 17.4 (when set to off) takes about 3 minutes before power led turns on.
    The voltage crashes down to less than 1.0 quickly after the cell turns on.
    Amperage: Initially shoots up to 0.7 when cell turns on, then immediately crashes back down to 0.00
    Desired output: 69p (while knob is at 60, close enough)
    Instant Salinity: -0.00 Quickly goes to -1.40 then right back to -0.00 when cell turns on.
    Product name: AL – 0
    Software revision: r 1.40
    No cell type info but hasn’t changed since installation.

    Goldline controls
    PN: G1-066012C-1
    Rev: C

    115v input
    24v over the two yellow wires

    Which component is at fault, the board or the transformer or something replaceable on the board? The cell tries to draw power but the box can’t deliver and shuts back off.

  6. David Gretlein Avatar

    Hi Matthew –
    Nevermind, …
    “Aqua Rite chlorine generators operating with software version 1.50 or later are designed to use one of 3 different chlorinator cells that are available from your authorized Hayward dealer.”

  7. David Gretlein Avatar

    Great info and many thanks. You are correct – no place is the troubleshooting info consolidated.

    I have an Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator that does not have some of the features you highlight. For example, I am unable to reset the cell type. I never see the “T-xx”. Another things is that I am unable to display the voltage and current.

    Could this be because our firmware is version r1.10?

    A little history is that this system came with the home we bought but was not in use. No salt in the pool. They had a service that managed the chlorine. I have replaced the cell with a GLX-CELL3-W ( we have an ~16000 gal. pool ). We check the water and all Parameters are in line except no chlorine. Any thoughts?

    Thank you in advance.

    1. David Gretlein Avatar

      Hey Matthew – when I perform the following:
      1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
      2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display

      I never see “t-xx” or “t-15”, “t-3”, etc. …

      Your thoughts?

      1. Donald Samborski Avatar

        did anybody give an answer to this? Mine does same

  8. Ron Jung Avatar

    my customer says the system does not read the salt level correctly. the reading he does get slowly drops as the day goes on. the the system shuts off. when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. is it the cell or the PC board?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      From that scant description, I cannot tell what the cause is. But have you or the customer checked the cell voltage, amps and completed any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the article? That could go a long way in determining what the issue is.

  9. Dan jost Avatar

    My power led will not come on and it won’t generate. When I reset the breaker it flashes no flow for about 60 seconds and then the generate led lights up fo about 10 seconds the off. The display works fine. My water has no chlorine, so it’s not generating. I checked the fuse, it’s good.
    8 yr old pool, and I’m on my second cell.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Going by your description and the troubleshooting steps we list in the guide about this very situation, I think you need a new AquaRite Main PCB – GLX-PCB-RITE

  10. Shawn Avatar

    Hi, TCell 15 and everyday I have to recalibrate the salt level for it to produce chlorine. Any ideas?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I hate to keep asking this same question to everybody; but, did you check that the correct cell is selected on the panel? Have you cleaned the cell? How old is the cell?

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