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Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

author avatar
Charlie Ramirez
Writer at InyoPools.com, brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in pool care and equipment, helping pool owners make informed decisions for over a decade.

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332 responses to “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System”

  1.  Avatar

    What does it mean when ur board is flashing a triangle and a plus symbol in left corner

  2. Becky Warwick Avatar

    I am having a issue with the salt reading and instant salinity reading. The salt reading is 900 and Instant salinity reads -3300. I have recalibrated then generator numerous times and the numbers will match for that day. Once power turns off with timer and next day it powers back on the readings go back to 900 and -3000. The generator worked last year and In April it operated properly. I have. Hayward T15 cell that was installed April 2019. Is the cell bad?

    1. Becky Warwick Avatar

      I also had water tested at pool store and the reading was 3168 which is good. My cell voltage on the cell reads 26.2 running and 32.4 off.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        When was the last time you cleaned the cell?

  3. MICHAEL HAILEY Avatar

    Just replaced my T-5 cell due to system showing very low salt content even as I added 12 bags of salt. Now, the amps are reading high (8.5) and the salt level is all over the place. It was reading 2700 for three days, I added two bags of salt and 24 hours later it reads 1700. I’m in Florida so the system runs all year. Pool temp is 84.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      First, what is the actual salt level? Have you had your water tested either by a local pool store or done it yourself using salt test strips? You need to know what the actual salt level is to determine how off the readings for your unit are.

      Have you recalibrated the salt level in the diagnostics menu? How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite

  4. Pete Avatar

    My Aqua Rite Salt Cell display board reads “COLD” for salt reading. My water temp is actually above 80 degrees. I will be replacing the salt cell next week. Is there a problem with the display board or is it something else?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Your problem is likely stemming from the cell. The display board should not need to be reset; your cell is giving the box bad info, so the board giving you the wrong reading.

      Turn your AquaRite on; if you unplug your cell while on and the cell temp reads 77 degrees, then it definitely the cell.

  5. Ron Avatar

    Mathew,

    Is there a relationship between:
    The current and the amount of chlorine being generated, ie, when my current goes from
    5 amps to 6 amps has my chlorine production increased? By 20%?
    The amount of salt (ppm) and the amount of current?
    The answers seem obvious but I have seen several times where after a substantial rain the current increases, which seems opposite to expectation.
    Is the ppm given a result of an actual sensor (eg hydrometer) or the calculated result of other sensors (eg current, voltage)

  6. Andrew Avatar

    Hi Matthew Simmons,

    Please help! My Aquarite is LED light won’t go on and when I turn the system to AUTO it trips the breaker. If I leave the system on OFF there’s numbers displaying on the screen which means there’s power but still there’s not LED lights on except the “no flow” light which flashes for about 60 seconds then stops. As soon as I turn on the system to AUTO the breaker trips a few minutes later.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      You can try putting the aquarite on a different breaker to determine if the aquarite is the issue or if your original breaker is.

      You can also get into troubleshooting the wiring of your system to determine the specific issue, refer to the Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual

  7. Jim G Avatar

    My instantaneous salt reading has been dropping over the past several weeks. It is now down to 2000 ppm but the water tests at 3200. I can recalibrate the average to be correct but the instantaneous reading stays low. While generating the voltage (Voltage is actually 25.2 V). and amperage are within normal range for the T-15 cell that is installed. Is this an indication that the cell is going bad?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      There is a little white sensor nub on the inside of the cell that reads temp and salt level. Sometimes this sensor gets dirty and may need a little extra scrubbing besides the normal acid bath to get it clean. You can find it one of the ends of the cell, give it a few brushes with a toothbrush (preferably not one you plan on using) to get rid of any debris or scale build-up

  8. Jason Hayes Avatar

    Matt,
    I recently started my pool up. I have it all clear through shocking ,etc. I recently added salt to obtain a level of 3100. I did recalibrate my Aquarite unit. It starts to produce chlorine in about 15 minutes shuts off. When I check my display, it says my salt reading is 3100 but my average salt reading is 0 and the amps is 0. The light for generating is still “on.” I have not tested the salt with a strip. Would either a high or low salt level cause it to shut off and display 0? I have a t9 cell and all configurations are setup correctly. I just get confused why it would work for a period of time and then no longer work.

    1. Jason Hayes Avatar

      I meant to say my average salt level still reads 3100 but my instant salt level reads 0. Sorry for the confusion.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I would make sure you have the correct cell size listed on your control panel settings. If the amperage still reads 0 after adjusting the cell type, you need to replace the turbo cell.

  9. MATT LANTIERE Avatar

    Thanks for getting back … cell t-15 is correctly selected on the display, and cell t-15 was cleaned about 4 weeks ago. Technician says the salt box stays “ON” overnight , even after the pump shuts off in late afternoon — he thinks that’s the problem — although the system has been doing that for 16 years now. Both display panel and PCB have been replaced (yes, with genuine Hayward stuff) — tried a OEM board and replaced that a few days ago — this is really making me a little crazy. If I press the reset to calibrate, numbers all seem to go back to normal. But then next thing in the morning starts off at 700 again!

    1.  Avatar

      My aqua rite amp reading is 0 and salt out put 0. If I increase the dial it reads correctly. If I move it back down to below 45 it goes back to 0 on both. What is the issue or is this really working but at 0 doesnt need to generate?

  10. MATT LANTIERE Avatar

    Happened again ;like clockwork this morning — BTW: each morning it reads “700” on the display, as well as “CHECK SALT” and “INSPECT CELL” stays on (stated in earlier post that it blinks — but actually stays on)

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