Why Does My Pool Have No Chlorine?

Have you ever tested your swimming pool water and couldn’t get a chlorine reading? Figuring you must have done something wrong, you retest your water. Still no reading. So what do you do? Add chlorine, right? After days of adding chlorine and testing chemical levels, you still have no chlorine reading. At this point, your attitude turns from curious to annoyed.

Are your chemical levels imbalanced?

Are you using a reliable pool water test kit?

These are just two questions that need addressing before you can get to the real question, why does my pool have no chlorine? 

Determining Why My Pool Has No Chlorine Reading

Balance Your Pool Water

Excluding chlorine, are the remaining chemicals in your pool balanced? Balancing your water is an important step that pool owners sometimes forget. The very first thing you want to do is get an accurate reading of your chemical levels.

If you don’t have a home testing kit, we recommend either purchasing one or taking a water sample to a local pool store and testing it there. Getting the most recent and the most accurate chemical readings is imperative before adding any additional chemicals.

High Chlorine Demand: What Is It and How Is It Caused?

If you test your pool water and can’t get a chlorine reading, it may be due to your pool’s high demand for chlorine. A high chlorine demand (sometimes referred as chlorine lock), simply means that although your water may appear clear and balanced, the chlorine in your pool is ineffective. But why?

If you need guidance on balancing your pool, check out our blog here.

Too Much Organic Material In Your Pool

One of the causes of a high chlorine demand is an excessive buildup of algae and phosphates. Although you’re adding chlorine to your water, bacteria or algae are overpowering the chemicals causing it not to show up on tests strips or in water kits.

It’s like when you overdraft $200 from your bank account but only add $100 back. You’re still less $100 from the original overdraft. The chlorine in your pool acts the same way.

Keep in mind, organic materials like algae, leaves, sunscreen, lotions, pee, poop, and etc., consume chlorine. As chlorine does its job, it is depleted in the process. To prevent the demand for chlorine from happening, help remove the organic material from your pool water by brushing the algae from the pool walls, cleaning your filter, and removing leaves and debris from the water.

Chemical Imbalances

One of the ways phosphates get into your pool is through household cleaners. There are certain household cleaners that weren’t designed for the pool. Cleaner manufacturers add additional components to the composition such as phosphates or nitrates. The extra phosphates interfere with the pool’s current sanitizer and can cause a demand for chlorine.

Having too much cyanuric acid in your pool is another way to create a high demand for chlorine. Sometimes, it’s just a simple case of pool owners adding too much stabilizer to the water. Sometimes this occurs when you aren’t partially draining and refilling your pool periodically.

Adversely, very little or zero stabilizer also creates a demand for chlorine. Cyanuric acid, in a sense, acts like sunscreen for the pool. If you’ve ever worn sunscreen in the hot sun, you know that you have to consistently re-apply. Our pools are the same way. If your CYA levels are really low, the sun can burn through the chlorine in your pool rather quickly.

You can learn more about the relationship between chlorine and cyanuric acid here.

Rainstorms or Excessive Rain

Other ways that can potentially cause a chlorine demand in your pool is excessive rain. When it rains, air pockets form in the raindrops and allows oxygen into the water. When this happens, your pool’s chemistry offsets, resulting in the demand for chlorine.

Determining If Your Pool Has a High Demand For Chlorine

The quickest way to determine if your pool is experiencing a high demand for chlorine is to perform a test for free and total chlorine.

Free chlorine shows the level of disinfecting chlorine available to sanitize your pool. Free chlorine isn’t interacting with contaminants, yet. Total chlorine is the amount of chlorine, used or not, in your water.

In the test, if your free chlorine reading matches your total chlorine reading, your pool is NOT experiencing a high demand for chlorine. This is a normal reading.

However, if your free chlorine reading is different than your total chlorine reading, then there’s a problem. You shouldn’t have a free chlorine reading of 3 and a total chlorine reading of 7.

Breaking Your Chlorine Lock

While there are many ways to solve this issue, we will only be covering a few of them. Please select the option you are most comfortable with.

Partially Draining Your Pool

One of the simplest methods to breaking chlorine demand is by partially draining your pool. The severity of the chlorine lock determines how long this method takes. Unfortunately, there’s no exact science to this. Simply drain your pool little by little, refill it, test it, and repeat if necessary.

Shock Your Pool

Another method of breaking chlorine lock is shocking your pool. Bring your chlorine levels to 20ppm or three times higher than the current levels. We recommend using a non-chlorine oxidizing shock until your free and total chlorine reads the same.

We typically see more pools with a high demand for chlorine during spring opening season. A lot of the times, pools sit for months accumulating a ton of different contaminants. This is one of the reasons we always recommend balancing your pool before you close it. You don’t want to compile pool issues or push them to the side. Although high chlorine demand is more common than you might suspect, it is something pool owners can handle themselves.

Give us a call if you think your pool is experiencing this same issue. Make sure you have your most recent chemical readings before we can offer any help.

164 responses to “Why Does My Pool Have No Chlorine?”

  1. Brenda Wetters Avatar

    We have a salt pool with a very low chlorine level

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you tried turning up the level of chlorine output on the controller? Also, how old is your cell? Low output could be a sign you need to clean or replace your cell.

      1.  Avatar

        My pool water is green but clear. I filled the pool with hose water from our town supply and right fr the time it was filled it looked yellowish or light green. I shocked the pool and ran the pump overnight and the water is crystal clear but still tinted green. There is sediment on the bottom of the pool now. I also used stain prevent and ran the pump overnight and the colour has not changed at all. Wondering what to do.

        1.  Avatar

          Could be copper, test for that

        2. Elsie Avatar

          Mine was green and I put stabilizer in it

        3. Anonymous Avatar

          Throw in me clean magic eraser

          1.  Avatar

            You can’t throw in a magic eraser!! They contain a chemical called melamine. Most pool owners have Cyuranic acid in them. When melamine from the magic erasers mixes with the stabilized pool water a toxin called “Melamine cyanurate” is produced. This chemical causes kidney damage and eventually kidney failure. Don’t put a magic eraser in your pool!

    2. Katie Avatar

      I have a saltwater pool, and the free chlorine level has been at zero. We’ve added salt to it and ran the pump and have shocked it. We opened it up middle to the end of May. Vacuumed it a few times, haven’t been able to get in yet because we’ve been having a lot of rain and storms this spring where we live, pretty much everyday in May and a few times so far this month. Our pool is not blue but it’s clear and has a greenish look to it. Could it be because of all the rain and that we need to scrub this sides to get rid of the algae?

      1. David Avatar

        I have the exact same problem!!!!

    3. Rocco Martino Avatar

      run your system !
      your saltwater generator can NOT make Chlorine with the pump off !

  2. Linda Avatar

    Could a filter that needs to be replaced cause the chlorinator to always have a red light for water flow and thus not make any chlorine? We have cleaned the cell and the filter and the problem persists.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The issue could be two things, Either the cell needs replacing or the filter is so dirty it is restricting flow much the generator cannot turn on.

      To determine if your filter is the problem, bypass the filter media. For cartridge filters, remove the cartridges and the manifolds. If you have a sand or a DE filter, set your multiport valve to recirculate. If your salt generator still says low flow, then chances are it is not a filter problem.

      1. Linda Avatar

        We are total pool novices-so are you saying to literally take the filter out and then start the pump without it and see if it gets flow to the chlorinator?

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          I am saying to bypass the filter media (aka the sand, cartridges, or DE grids) by either using the recirculate feature on the valve or removing the cartridge inside the filter. This means your water should have a straight shot through your system with little resistance. What kind of filter do you have?

          1. Linda Avatar

            We have a Pentair filter R173216. yesterday the chlorinator ran just fine. Today the lights flash between red/green on the salt and no water flow which is what it started doing last week. We’ll take the filter cartridge out and try it as you suggested and order a new filter just in case. Hopefully it is the filter and not the chlorinator. Appreciate your advice!

    2. Bvask Avatar

      We had the same waterflow problem with our Dive system chlorinator. The solution was simple: take one of the return jets out. They compared it to traffic on the highway. All those cars going through a small opening will cause a traffic jam way back. This slows everything down. Taking out One of the Jets is like opening for more lanes on the highway. More cars can travel less back up behind. Our water flow went from 21 gallons per minute up to 29 in a matter of seconds. Hope this helps

  3. Trish Avatar

    Help please. Definitely experiencing chlorine block. All other levels are in line – phosphates a little high at 844.
    I was told to shock and retest. I did and the bromine level came up but the pool never cleared (its very cloudy) – I waited a couple days, retested – NO bromine level again.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Can you post the full results of your latest water chemistry tests? I need to see the full scope of your water levels to understand what needs to be done.

    2. Terry Avatar

      844 is extremely high, that’s your problem

  4. Lou Boarman Avatar

    We had a lot of pollen enter our pool (the crew that opened it in the spring just swept the pollen that was on the cover into the water as they removed the cover). This resulted in a very high CYA reading (>100). We drained about 16 in of water from the pool (capacity 29,160 gal). The readings at that time were:
    FAC/Bromine: 0.5
    ph: 7.2
    Total Alkalinity: 60-120
    Total Hardness: 200-500
    CYA: >100
    After refilling, the CYA is around 40, and I have added 12 gallons of Liquid Shock (sodium hypochlorite) but the FAC levels do not seem to have risen. Should I just keep adding shock? Is granular better? I was avoiding using granular sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate because I was afraid it would introduce cyanuric acid, which we just lowered.
    Thanks

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Hopefully, you have taken care of the pollen issue as well. Use a clarifier to get rid of any leftover clumps.

      If you want an easy tool that will tell you how much to add, I suggest TrobleFree Pool’s PoolMath

  5. Ashley Avatar

    Hi there! I feel like I’m needing a lot of help. We opened our above ground 30 foot pool a couple weeks ago (cartridge filter) and have yet to get it clear. We were fighting iron and it always stayed cloudy blue never brown. This of course made it impossible to get a chlorine reading. This past Friday our pump broke as the temps soared to mid 90s! The water turned to a green color now. We have been using our robot sweeper constantly to sweep up anything and don’t have any algae on the floor anymore. Our new pump is finally running and upon testing everything, here are the results:
    Total Bromine: 0
    Free Chlorine: 0
    pH: 6.8-7.2
    Total Alkalinity: 80-125

    What are the next steps we need to take to get our pool crystal clear?

    Thank you so much!!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      You have to get your pH higher, then you can work on the chlorine. An easy tool for knowing how much of each chemical you need to add to balance your chemistry is Trouble Free’s Pool Math calculator.

      1. Ashley Avatar

        So raising the pH first by borax and then working on the chlorine how? I always thought we had to lower the pH first and then super shock to get a chlorine level??

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          work on chlorine = Add chlorine and shock

          Optimal conditions for chlorine to works at its best, the pH should be between 7.2-7.8

  6. Lisette Avatar

    I just added 4 gallons of shock to my 16000 gallon pool and the strips show no chlorine. Should I add more shock?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What are the results of your latest chemistry test? Blindly dumping shock into a pool, without knowing what your pool chemistry is, is throwing money down the drain.

  7. Patty Avatar

    I am having a problem with my pool and have yet been able to swim in it this summer. I have taken it to our local pool store to have the water tested and it shows all levels normal except no chlorine every time. I’ve dumped algacide and shock in it repeatedly and still green with no chlorine. It now is having the shock floating on top and won’t even dissolve. The pool place is stumped with no more suggestions.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What are your phosphate levels? A high phosphate count can gobble up chlorine.

  8. Wanda Avatar

    Help!!! Everytime I test my pool, it shows no chlorine. However all other results are within range.
    Bromine 0
    FAC 0
    Alkaline 80-120
    Ph 7.2-7.8
    The pool is clear, so why am I not getting a fac reading?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’m pretty sure this is covered in the article, but I digress.

      What is your CYA Level? Also, have you taken your water to a pool store for a free water test? The in-store tests will give you more accurate test results than your average strips.

  9. Bill Reutzel Avatar

    I have in ground pool 16×32 I have the PH at 7.6-7.8 I have zero reading on Chlorine No matter how much I add the water is clear but with a green tint very puzzling never had this issue please help

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Ok, p is only one of the important balancer chemicals needed to ensure your chlorine is able to work efficiently. What are your total alkalinity, CYA, and phosphate levels? Give that section in the article a reread for an in-depth explainer on why they are important.

  10. Susan M Avatar

    Hello! My above ground intex pool is a little cloudy. The test strips read:

    Bromine- 0
    Alkalinity – 80
    PH – 7.8
    Total hardness – 0

    Any ideas what to do? Yesterday i ran the hose for 40 mins to add a bit of water (as the pool is only about half full anyhow for kids safety) and then did a shock treatment and let filter run for 24hrs. The ph and alkaline went up a little in normal ranges but i still have a reading of 0 for bromine and hardness. Im just wondering how safe this is for swimming and what else i can do to increase those levels. Thank you in advance!

  11. Lotr Thyronx Avatar

    My case.
    We put in the pool 2 , 40 lb bags of salt. Then now, a get chlorin zero.
    OK I put in there phosphate remover, water get cloudy and again chlorin zero.
    I put in bottle ! gallon of chlorin, and i minutes again zero chlor.
    OK, chlorinator is working, so I ordered company to drain pool completely and acid wash surface of pool.

    Waiting for results. I belive, my sanitizer iChlor 30 is in very good shape. Almost new.
    From Florida, Thyronx

  12. Lotr Thyronx Avatar

    next week I’ll leave here comment how my pool is it?
    There is clear signs, then water in the pool is not good.
    Otherwise>
    Water is balanced, 7.8 pH bit high ,
    Calcium Hardness 500 little high,
    level of salt 3,500,
    Total alkalinity 120,
    Total disolved Solids 5,000 high,
    Stabilizer 100, high,
    Chlorin 0

  13. Brian Avatar

    Inground pool at a hotel so used on a commercial scale total is 24000 gallons
    PH 7.2
    CYA-0
    Alkalinity-60
    No chlorine shows up on tests
    added 2 gallons of chlorine yesterday

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      There is no CYA. That is your problem.

  14. Jerry Avatar

    just opening pool for the summer. have tried to maintain it through the winter. temperature rise, rainfall, pollen, and all that have left me with nothing showing on a test strip. should I start by trying to adjust ph. don’t want to keep throwing good shock after bad.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Yes, adjust the pH first then get to the chlorine. If the pH is in check it allows the chlorine to work more efficiently.

  15. Kelly Avatar

    My test strips (2 different bottles, 1 being brand new) show 0 chlorine. Water tested at store today showed chlorine at 10. Dipped one strip near jet to see if that made difference. Still 0. Help, I don’t want to have to run to pool store every other day.

    1. Kelly Avatar

      All my other levels are spot on.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Your chlorine levels may be so high that the strips can’t properly register it. Have you tried a different brand that can handle higher test scores?

  16. Rustie Avatar

    Help!!! We are opening our pool and got stuck with a very light real green pool. We have added over 16 pounds of ph and it still will not move from below 6.8! Chlorine will not stay in the pool. We have been aerating for over 8 hrs and still the ph will not raise. What are we doing wrong??

    1. Rustie Avatar

      FAC 0
      TAC 0
      CH 110
      CYA 60
      TA 80
      pH 6.0

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Is the pH increaser completely dissolved into the water? Some times the powder just sort of floats around without properly mixing in the pool water. If you have adjustable return jets, adjust them, so they are pointing towards the surface of the pool to churn it better. If you have a waterfall, deck jets or any other water features that agitate the water, turn those on as well. Give it a day or so and retest.

  17. Carol Winters Avatar

    I am having a chlorine lock issue. I did the non chlorine shock that the store rep told me to do and still no chlorine reading. My pool is crystal clear, just no chlorine.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What were the results of your latest water chemistry results? We need to know this to have a better idea on how to break chlorine lock.

  18. Lisa Avatar

    Hey I am after some help I have been treating my pool with shock after it was it used over winter my water appears clear but when you look into the pool it is cloudy I have done a test and it looks to me like everything is okay could you tell me why it is cloudy and what I need to do?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If your pool was green before you shocked it, the haziness is likely dead algae that needs to be filtered out of the pool. But there are other reasons why your pool would be cloudy, give this article a read, it goes into detail about how to tackle other causes: Why Is My Pool Cloudy?

  19. Brian Avatar

    I opened my 20,000 gallon in ground pool and have pH at 7.3 and alkalinity at 90 but chlorine reads 0 despite a fully open inline chlorinator and six gallons of liquid chlotine. Pool was heavily green at opening since getting chemistry to levels above and 12 bags of shock over 4 days pool remains hazy turquoise green. Any advice anout what to do next? Keep shocking it? Hire a witch doctor???

  20. Janet Avatar

    I am at the point of adding dynamite to my pool! All my levels are perfect except my free chlorine. First thing I did was add flock and vacuumed on waste, refilled pool. Did this three times. Then brought my PH to 7.2. Had water tested at pool store, got everything balanced but my free chlorine is still not registering. Even after adding all the fresh water. Should I oxidize it being that it is well water or go the the fort fix and get dynamite?

  21. Janet Avatar

    Also, forgot to mention it is a 30,000 gal pool

  22. Martha Avatar

    Help it has been over a week of opening inground 17K gallon pool. Pool Store said we have chlorine lock. Per store recommendation we have added 27 bags of Bioguard Burnout and still no reading on Chlorine. Prior to the 27 bags of burnout we drained down the pool about 3 feet and added fresh water. The numbers from the test saying we had chlorine block were:
    PH 8.2 Free Chlorine 0.5 Total Alkanlinity 289 Total Chlorine 8 CYA 38 TSA 300 and Optimizer Plus 28
    Hardness 96 Also said Combined Chlorine 7.5
    We have a DE fliter and have backwashed numerous times at 20lbs torn apart the filter washed down the fins and started all over again. 2 times a day and still no luck. Thoughts, suggestions, please help. Thanks.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      All your water levels are out of whack, I would have drained more of the pool and started fresh. How to Break Chlorine Lock

  23. Debbie Avatar

    Hi, I have an above ground pool 24ft. I too cannot get any thing on the rear strip. Took a sample to one pool store, they said to drain the pool 6inches below the skimmer and fill back up and repeat this process 5 times. Another pool dealer sold me a kit, we had to put a gallon of chlorine in the pool and then put this powder in the pool and then mix this other stuff with 5 gallons of warm water and let it sit for 4 hours then our into skimmer and run for 4 hours. They said we had too much conditioner in the pool. I haven’t even added conditioner in the pool this year yet. Do you know what our problem might be.? We also have a big dark spot on the liner on the bottom of the pool. Please help.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      First, we would need to know the results of your latest pool chemistry test.

  24. JET Avatar

    Have a 1,338 gallon in ground plaster pool. Every time I add chlorine it’s gone within a few hours. Last water test results:
    FAC – 0
    TAC – 0
    CH – 200
    CYA – 150
    TA – 80
    pH – 7.4

  25. Mindy Avatar

    I have a 10,000 gallon above ground pool with a sand filter. I can’t get chlorine to register and I’ve put in 6 gallons in the last 2 weeks. We’ve had really bad rain the last few weeks so I drained out as much as we could and added fresh water yesterday. I have been brushing and vacuuming for a week and the water is now blue and very lightly cloudy. My pump for the last week has been running 12-15 hours a day especially at night when we put in whatever chemicals that were needed.

    My test strip readings from this morning :
    – No Chlorine
    – PH: 7.2
    – Alkalinity: 180-240
    – Hardness: 100
    – CYA: 40

    I’m not which of these I need to raise/lower first before I will start to get a chlorine reading.

  26. Ashley S Avatar

    I shocked my pool with a gallon of liquid shock waited 24 hours tested the water, no chlorine. Added 2 chlorine tablets into the floater tested the next day with a strip, no chlorine. My alkalinity is low, but the ph is okay. My free chlorine matches my total chlorine and that’s zero. My pool is crystal clear, what should I do ?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I would get my water tested by a local pool store. Those test strips can get fouled easily, making their readings worthless. Get the water tested to verify the strips are correct. You may end just needing to buy a new set of test strips.

      1. Ashley S Avatar

        I have 2 different brand strips and a test kit with the drops.. all reading the same, no chlorine.. should I shock it again?

        1. SMC Avatar

          I have the same problem. Above ground pool. Opened and shocked it. Ran the sand filter for about 25 hours over 2 days. Water cleaned up but was cloudy. Added more fresh water. Tested and saw no chlorine registered. Shocked it again. Water cleared. Tested 3 hours after shocking and all levels tested well. The next morning water is completely clear but still no chlorine. Have backward filter several times. Should I try a oxidizer shock without the chlorine?

          1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

            Chlorine is not registering the next day because you are adding unstabilized pool shock which dissipates quiclky. In order to maintain a chlorine level, you need to use trichlor, dichlor, or stabilized liquid chlorine. You also need to make sure that your other water water chemistry is blanaced, like the pH, Alkalinity, and CYA.

  27. Jayme Avatar

    I have a 24,000 gallon pool. I was out of town on work and it ran out of chlorine in the chlorinator. Shocked the pool and it it now clear as can be. Turned chlorinator all the way up but I am still getting no free chlorine in my test strips. Pool store ran my water. FAC .3 TAC .7 CC .4 PH 7.3 Hard 160 ALK 79 CYA 34 Copper .2 Iron .1. they told me to add 3 gallons liquid chlorine. After doing this my test strips still show no FAC . Any advice. Thanks

  28. Cristiano Avatar

    Free chlorine does not go up! I’ve been struggling with my pool this year. We open the pool about 45 days ago (15,000 gallons), and added about 20 gallons of liquid chlorine and about 15 pounds of granular chlorine (super shock), but there is basically no free chlorine in the pool. PH, alkalinity, and CYA are within normal ranges. Last week, I treated for phosphates, but still no change in free chlorine. I’ve also replaced about 1/3 of the water in the pool. I have an in-ground pool with an automatic cover, so the pool stays covered for most of the day. Any help will be appreciated. I replaced the filters this year, before opening the pool.

  29. Hannah Avatar

    I just barely finished filling up our above ground pool. 18×20 and I already added 3 gallons of chlorine and still get no reading of it added. Help!

  30. Kara Avatar

    All my pool chemicals are balanced. I shock the pool and my free and total chlorine appear on my reading to be the same. After a few hours my pool reads 0 for both chlorine levels. What do I do?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Shock can dissipate quickly depending on the state of the water and time of day. Chlorine can get burned off on hot sunny days. The most common type of shock Cal-hypo should generally only be used in the evening for maximum effect. If you are using the shock in the evening and it is still getting gobbled up then you need to shock it again. The chlorine is disappearing because it is being used to fight something in the water. You may also have some organic material using the chlorine, so a product like Pool First Aid

  31.  Avatar

    no chlorine reading here either countless bags of shock 20,000 in ground pool saw some pink slime seems to be gone not used alge stuff ph and alk seem to be in order……….dont know what to do added 4 bags of shock this morning pool still cloudy very little reading.

    1. Kara Avatar

      What is the ingredient in the shock you are adding and what percentage?

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Have you tried a drain and refill? Instead of throwing shock down the drain, it may be best to start anew.

  32. Frustrated Mart Avatar

    I have a hot tub, and during the hot weather I set the temp to 30. its always been fine. I have the strips, have a high PH so have to lower it a lot… then, all of a sudden. The PH shows the same (low) but regardless how much Chlorine I put in, the strip says it has NONE! it doesn’t change colour at all. The water is now a bit cloudy… should I just part drain it as it says up top?…Should I think about using one of those floating dispensers instead of keep putting granules in every few days?

    Any help greatly recieved

    yours
    Frustrated
    Essex
    England

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Because it is a hot tub, I would consider just purging, draining and refilling it. Starting fresh will be a lot easier than racking your brain over a small body of water. Also, if your water has been in there for longer than a few months, it gets harder and harder to manage because it has been treated so much.

  33. Ken D Avatar

    I’m so frustrated, I cannot get chlorine level. I followed your formula for breaking Chlorine lock, which came out with putting in 15lbs of shock. The next morning I got these readings:
    Ph: 7.4
    Alkalinity: 120
    CYA: 220
    Hardness: 30
    FC: 0
    TC: 1
    I have tried everything. When I closed it last year everything was balanced. It does have a slow leak so by the time I opened it, mid-June, I had to refill it from half way. The pool is above ground 24 ft Round x 5 ft deep approx. 13,500 gallons. Suggestions??

  34. Jen Avatar

    What is another name for shock

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Calcium Hypochlorite.

  35. Angela King Avatar

    My husband set up our above ground pool while I was away and he forgot to add chlorine tablets into the floating dispenser. It was set up for four days with no chlorine and the kids playing in it. I filled the floater with chlorine tablets yesterday- but for some stupid reason I diddnt use as much as I should have…. about half as much actually.
    I tested it today and the PH is higher than 8.4. Total chlorine is reading 0 and free chlorine is at 1. Stabilizer is also reading 0. My thought is that the pH is so high because it didn’t have chlorine for four days. Will adjusting the chlorine levels With a trichlor product help lower the PH?
    How can I fix this?

  36. Terri-Lynn Avatar

    I bought an above ground pool with a pump and salt water chlorinator. I filled the pool with water from the hose(our town supply). The water was between light green to yellowish tinted but not cloudy. I shocked the pool and the next day the water was crystal clear and you could see right to the bottom but it was still tinted green. I read that it could be a metal problem so I put stain prevent in the pool water and ran the pump all night but the water colour hasn’t changed. It is still tinted light green. There is dark brown sediment in little piles all over the pool floor now. Wondering what to do from here.

  37. Tiffany Avatar

    Please help! My pool is very green & cloudy. When we took a cup of water to the nearest pool place, they said the water appeared very clean in the cup. I’m not sure how to get rid of the green, cloudiness because I have already added chlorine in it yesterday. It appears a little bit better today, but not by much. Here are my #s:
    Alkalinity: 53
    pH: 8
    Stabilizer: 24
    Hardness: 52
    Free chlorine or combined chlorine: 0

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      First, all of your water chemistry is out of whack. You could throw a bunch of chlorine in there but it isn’t going to do much because your water chemistry lessens its effectiveness. You need to lower your pH, raise your stabilizer, alkalinity, and hardness. Read and follow the steps of this guide: How to Clean a Green Pool?

      Also, if the person at the counter didn’t tell you the stuff above when they gave you the results of the test, never go back to that store.

  38. Jada Avatar

    Wow! You have helped so many people! Thank you very much for that. My question is this.
    Why oh why am I getting a chlorine reading of zero ppm?
    My pool has a salt reading of 2900 parts per million on three different electronic salt readers. (One on the Hayward and two portable electronic ones.) My pH is 7.5 and my alkalinity is 120 my calcium hardness is 250 and my cyanuric is less than 100 but over 50.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      It could be any of the reasons we mentioned in the article. Why your specific pool is struggling with chlorine I cannot pinpoint purely on those numbers as they look on point. But you may want to try to lower the CYA levels. I would try a heavy dose of cal-hypo, pool first-aid (or something similar), and continue with your normal method of chlorination.

  39. Chris Avatar

    I bought a house with a 25,000 gallon salt water pool back in June of this year and it has been a nightmare to deal with. The only time I get a chlorine reading is for the first couple days after I shock the pool. I did have a bad salt cell so I was supplementing chlorine tablets in the skimmer however I never could get a chlorine reading doing that. I have now replaced the salt cell and still have the same issues with it not holding chlorine. PH, Alkalinity and Stabilizer are all in check but no chlorine. Any thoughts?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      First, what is the make and model of the salt system? Do you know the pool size (in gallons) the cell is rated for? The cell may be undersized, meaning it can’t keep up with production.

      What are your chemistry results? What are the number values?

  40. Ellen Avatar

    My pool consistently has low chlorine – between zero and 1.5 in both my home test and the local pools store’s test. I have a Pentair Intellichlor system. The cell is less than 1 year old. I cleaned the salt cell 3 days ago and the cartridge filter 1 week ago. My pool is under a large oak tree, but I run a vacuum and have 2 skimmer baskets which keep both the pool floor and surface very clean of leaves and excess debris. My pool water is a little cloudy but blue and not green – no evidence of algae. I actually had a service tech come out and perform a bucket test to ensure the salt cell is indeed working. My salt level is good, PH is normal, phosphates are low but almost every morning i have to add at least 1 bag of shock to get rid of the stains on the pool floor and also to get the chlorine back up to an acceptable amount. Any thoughts? anyone ever heard of elevated nitrates causing this? if so, how do i address this? Thanks for helping me with this mystery!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If your pool water is cloudy, those are particulates that are soaking up active chlorine. So your cell may be producing chlorine but all that cloudy stuff is eating it up before it can do its job. I would use a clarifier or a flocculant to get rid of the cloudiness. Also, if you are adding shock along with algaecide, that cloudiness may be the result of them not mixing well. Hold off on the algaecide.

  41. Terry D Avatar

    I have the exact same problem any thing would help thanks.

  42.  Avatar

    Just a general question. I want to know the best way to approach the spring opening season to start off with the best and clearest pool water? I know the pool chemistry is the key but I want to make sure of the proper steps to get there. Let me know if I’m following it right.

    1. Ph Balance then,
    2.Alkalinity then,
    3. Stabilizer then once these are right,
    4. Chlorine levels (Can you get and maintain chlorine with my Pool Frog system and Super Chlorinating Shock)?
    5. After that then Algae Preventer

    Am I missing anything? Of course cleaning any debris out before all of this. Thanks!

  43.  Avatar

    what is your intellichlor set to? can you increase the number/amount of chlorine it produces? I have an iChlor 30, I recently had to change it from 30 to 55 for output…….

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The I9ntellichlor does allow you to adjust the chlorine output. The required chlorine for a pool will vary according to the size of the pool, the gallon rating of the cell, swimmer load, and time of year. At some point in your season, you will likely need up the output to compensate for higher temps or rainfall.

  44. Njay Avatar

    My pool chemicals are perfect, the pool is clear as can be, my phosphates are pretty low…… no chlorine reading.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Ok, then you should add chlorine. If your chemistry truly is perfect, all you need to do is add chlorine. I would add a liquid shock dose to give anything lingering in the pool a nice punch; then, I would add tablets, start your salt generator, or whatever method you use to maintain proper FC levels.

  45. Katie Beach Avatar

    You are so helpful! Thank you so much. I love your advice…thanks!

  46. Jim Avatar

    10000gal pool. 8 gallons of liquid shock, 7 packets of dry shock, 25lb of chlorine tablets in pool. Low chlorine and free . half left over half new city water.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What are your latest water chemistry results? Chlorine doesn’t work unless you have the other chemistry levels in check. If you have no CYA, and your pH is off, then you are essentially throwing chlorine down the drain.

    2. Karen Avatar

      check CYA

  47. Linny Avatar

    Our pool company closed out pool with out adding the end of season chemicals .. Long story … When we opened it was a murky mess . My hubby has done an amazing job of cleaning .. But our chemical levels are far too low ..
    We also had warmer spring followed by excessive rain .. Its getting there but seems like nothing is really happening .. Any suggestions ? tips ?
    Thanks … just think we need to add more .. alge was so thick it had texture we still see water bubble and foam up when we add obviously far too many contaminants for pool .

  48. Bvask Avatar

    Anyone have a Dive system chlorine generator?…just wondering about your satisfaction of it?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Bump?

      I have not heard of their brand, but I looked them up; their cells at least look cool. Who knows if they work or not.

      There are so many cool looking products in the pool industry that don’t live up to the hype.

  49. Mike Avatar

    I have a new above ground 11000 gal pool that will not register a chlorine level. I have tried shocking overnights but nothing is changing. All my other chemical levels are fine but just can’t get chlorine in the pool. Am I missing something?

    1. Steve Avatar

      Mike – I have the same problem. Tried the chat on the website and they pointed me to this post. Doesn’t really help because it does not address the problem.

    2. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are you using tablets or liquid chlorine besides the shock? Shock dissipates pretty quickly as it is supposed to spike the chlorine level not maintain it.

  50.  Avatar

    Can I please get a free online pool book?
    Your website is excellent.
    Thank you,
    Al Machia
    New Jersey

    MACHIA0705@gmail.com

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Signed up and sent. Enjoy!

  51. April Lutz Nicotero Avatar

    I have a 16 by 36 I ground pool. On Tuesday, our pool was very cloudy with a 0 free chlorine reading. I had my suspicions it was phosphates and it was tested and confirmed. I put in phosfree to get rid of them. Threw my robot in the pool. By Thursday it was clear but still no reading of free chlorine. The guy tested my water said everything looks good but to add 20 bags of shock, which I did. Today still no reading of free chlorine. He said when he tested my water the phosphates were in a the 900’s. He did an actual phosphate test but it took
    About two to three minutes for it to turn blue. They told me the phosphates aren’t my problem. What do you think? I am going to take out my filters and clean them today. I don’t need Algae blooms to start.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I hope you meant 2 bags of shock; 20 bags of shock would be crazy unless the pool is 200K gallons. What is your CYA level? What other chlorine are you using besides shock? Shock is great for a boost but it cannot sustain your chlorine levels. You need to use a stabilized chlorine that can stay in your water, then your chlorine levels will improve.

      1. Carol Avatar

        I have an 18 foot x 4 above ground pool. Last week the water started to get cloudy. I tested it and learnt that I had too much cyranic acid in it. They recommended I drain 60% of the pool. So, I drained about 80%. The pool filled overnight. This morning I have 0 free chlorine and the pool is still a bit cloudy. Alkalinity is at 80 and pH is low. What do I do? Thank you in advance!

      2. Margie in Bowie Avatar

        I have the same problem a 25,000 gallon concrete inground pool not holding chlorine phosphates have been treated with Foss free latest reading was 2000. Cleaned the filter, Pool company advised me to add 7 pounds of shock which I did. The water is sparkling and beautiful but it still will not register chlorine he said I might have nitrates which is worse than Phosphates. I plan to have it tested for that, Any feedback or comments would be highly appreciated

        1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

          What are your latest water chemistry test results?

  52. Jill Lough Avatar

    We just had all the leaks fixed, terrible algae problem before that. And our pool lady is upset saying we still must have a leak because our readings have been the following for the last 2 weeks..
    250 ppm hardness
    0 free chlorine
    0 total chlorine
    120 ppm total alkalinity
    She added…both weeks
    3 chlorine tabs to skimmer
    8 lbs shock

    Is our pool still leaking or do we need a new pool lady?!! We’re in northern Florida at 95 temps. Water is crystal clear and only dropping maybe 1/4 inch per day at most.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is your stabilizer (CYA) level? How long do the three tablets during the week? Are they completely gone within a couple of days or are there remnants by the time the company comes back around?

      It doesn’t sound like a water leak to me, 1/4″ evaporation rate is standard.

  53. David Avatar

    Hi, hoping for some advice…

    We have a 10 x 6 ft pool, cya lvls very high which has impacted on chlorine lvl (0). Ph fine at 7.6 and alkaline also OK. Pool being used daily. I use 200g multifunctional tablets in floating dispenser on setting 2.

    I Just bought a submersible pump to help drain half the water and to get rid of the cya issue.(fingers crossed)

    The pump cartridge is also really struggling, I’m having to change it every day even though the pool has been vacuumed weekly /skimmed daily etc.

    My question is how much chlorine Granules should I use to shock the pool once I’ve drained /replaced half of the water. I used 18g to get to 2ppm but no affect previously.

    Any advice about the cartridge would be great too. (530g/h) been using a filter sock last few days which has been great to ease the pressure on the pump.

    1. Alex Avatar

      Just make sure to rinse that filter every day and shock once a week try a water test if chlorine levels are low use chlorine shock if not use non chlorine shock and use a pool cover at night I recommend a water proof cover and scrub the pool walls everyday once morning or night and use a skimmer hand held or electric to clean the leafs and debris out of the water and check Ph of the water 💦. Do not over chlorinate or too little use that pool test kit ! Hope this helps.

    2. James Murphy Avatar

      If you’re clogging your filter that often, I would use a floc agent to settle the particles to the bottom. Then vacuum to waste. Since cartridge filters to not have this option, configure your submersible pump to pull from your vacuum so you can get the settled particles out with your drain work.

      1.  Avatar

        How do u do the vacuum part

    3. Jeannie Avatar

      just put up a brand new above ground pool.We can’t get any readings on the chemicals we’ve added…what good be the problem ? Frustrated

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        I suggest using Inyo’s My Pool Dashboard to calculate how much of each chemical you will need to balance your water chemistry. You’ll need to enter your pool size and the results of an accurate water chemistry test.

  54. todd evans Avatar

    We are currently have an issue with Algae growth in our pool and noticed our pool company has been treated the pool with a type on granular substance that sits on the bottom of the pool. This substance has now bleached out the color of our new liner that was placed in April. When I questioned the company they said the granules would not do that . Every weekend our pool is green with algae growth. I have since tested the pool water twice and both times the readings show. Zero levels for -total, free and combined chlorine. The ph was 7.8 stabilizer 80 ppm. Total alkalinity was 240ppm and 200 ppm. When I questioned the company about these readings they sent a new technician over . He told me I had a chlorine lock ! I pointed out the discoloration in the liner and he said he would question the other tech. Later that day I got an email stating they are canceling my service. Two questions Do I have a chlorine lock? And did the granules they added cause damage to my liner?

    1.  Avatar

      Yes that will ruin your liner not only is it bleaching it it is making it thin in those areas too

    2. James Murphy Avatar

      So there are several things I would need to clarify before a solid recommendation could be made on fixing your balance issues. I assume with a new liner that it is vinyl lined, is it above ground, or in-ground with plaster or concrete surrounding the pool? (This will dictate calcium hardness requirements) What type of filter are you using, sand or cartridge? And I assume you are not using a salt water chlorine generator with using tabs.

      Are your readings correctly listed? Total alkalinity and stabilizer (cyanuric acid) are way too high. To bring the stabilizer down, the best thing to do is partially drain and fill until stabilizer is down to 30-35. If your alkalinity is over 200, you’re going to need a lot of muriatic acid. Do the stabilizer balancing first, this may reduce the alkalinity work. I would imagine that you are chasing your pH with it climbing to 8 really fast. Getting alkalinity down to 80 will help with the pH bounce. Add the acid until the pH gets down to 6.8, usually no more than a gallon at a time. Then point your return jet up to agitate the surface water to bring the pH up without chemicals (VERY IMPORTANT – do not use chemicals to bring up pH, it will negate the acids work on reducing alkalinity) When the pH is up to 7.2 or more, test alkalinity and repeat if still above 90. When alkalinity is balanced and pH of back to 7.2, you’re ready to start. If algae is still visible, backwash your sand filter out clean your cartridge very often. KEEP THE FILTER RUNNING 24/7

      Next is calcium hardness, it will probably be low. For an above ground, it’s not that critical but needs to be above 200, ideally 250. Keep filtering

      Now you’re ready to shock the crap out of the pool to kill all algae. Scrub the walls and floor before adding liquid bleach to get chlorine way off the charts at 30ppm. Keep filtering and wait for the levels to come down to under 5. Recheck alkalinity and pH during this process and adjust as above.

      Now this next part is my recommendation and others will argue, but it has always worked for me. With your chlorine back to 3 and other readings balanced, add Weekly Pool Perfect, available from Leslie’s. It will reduce phosphates, clarify and floc the cloudy particles down to the bottom of the pool for vacuuming. My pool went from cloudy to crystal clear in less than 48 hours after the first dose.

      Then maintain chlorine at 3ppm and shock weekly. If your using stabilized chlorine (dichlor or tricolor) your stabilizer level will go up over time. High stabilizer will lock up your chlorine, making it expensive and ineffective to maintain chlorine levels. If you use stabilized chlorine, it will only make the stabilizer level higher. Use calcium or sodium hypochlorite to shock to help prevent this rise.

      Lastly, get an attorney. That pool company damaged your new liner and are incompetent to allow your alkalinity to remain that high, add chemicals ineffectively and let the problems persist. The word negligent is defined by that practice. I hope this helps. Plan on this process taking a couple of weeks. A complete drain and fill may be quicker, but will still need to be balanced as above, it just may not need the superchlorination to kill algae if the pool surfaces are cleaned very well after the drain.

      1. Joe Avatar
  55. Grace zNelson Avatar

    I added 5 3inch chlorine to skimmer yesterday and my chlorine level is 0 today….is this normal

    1. TimX Avatar

      I assume you’ve recently opened your pool. My advice would be to zap it with a heavy dose of liquid chlorine. Very heavy. I have a 24000 gal pool and when I open in the spring I add 5 gallons. For me trying to get away with 2.5 will not work – I get a strong reading and it gets eaten up in a day or 2. Go heavy or it will end up costing you more. After I do that I can go to my regular dose of 2 (sometimes 3 if it’s really hot) 3” tablets.

      I also like the idea of really getting it chlorinated when you open it to make sure it’s sanitized.

      1. Stephen Gallion Avatar

        I have a 24 ft above ground pool. All of my levels are in a normal range except for my chlorine. I can’t get any readings. The pool looks great. Any advice would be so much appreciated.

  56. Vini Avatar

    Hi,

    I’ve got one of those Lazy spa hot tubes, 850l and when reading PH levels for 15 seconds it shows normal, but after one minute it goes to High. Is this normal? I need to daily check the levels of chlorine because it is always low and need to add more.

    Cheers,
    Vini

  57. Jeremy Avatar

    My current method of fixing my money pit…I mean “pool” is a bulldozer.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      How’d the fix go? Please, fill us in.

      1.  Avatar

        Hahahahaha

          1.  Avatar

            🤣

    2. Janice Avatar

      Amen. Wish I didn’t have a pool.

  58. James Avatar

    Ok. I am beyond frustrated. New pool owner. My wife is supposed to be handling the chemicals. But it looks like I need to take over. 18×33 (~14000 gal)above ground pool installed 7/5. It probably wasn’t started correctly. This is supposed to be a saltwater pool. Since day 1, we never really had much chlorine showing. The salt generator (Saltron Retro) doesn’t seem to be generating chlorine or working correctly. The indicator on it says salt is low. She added 10 bags originally and then another 3 to the indicator to not read low. Now pool store says salt is high. We are temporarily giving up on the salt gen and trying to get some chlorine (using liquid chlorine)in the pool before it turns green or something. Have noticed a slight bit of sliminess on the walls. CYA was low up until yesterday thanks to 5lbs of stabilizer. Added half a gallon last night with no results so added another half this morning. Still no free chlorine. Current readings are…total Chl-0, free chl-0, ph-8.4ish, Alk-240. What should be the next steps? Please help and explain so a 5 year old can understand. Lol. Thank you

    1.  Avatar

      After an entire gallon of chlorine within 24 hours I’m surprised there is none showing

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        There is no surprise here; your water chemistry is preventing your chlorine from holding its ground. The CYA, pH, and alkalinity are all essential to allowing your chlorine to work efficiently and effectively. Putting any more chlorine into that pool before the pH, alkalinity, and CYA levels are resolved is wasting money and chemicals.

        Do you have chemicals to adjust these water balancers? How To Maintain A Swimming Pool Part 1 (Chemicals)

    2. Sarah Avatar

      You could have left the comments about your wife out of this. They were not necessary to the question about pool chemicals.

      1.  Avatar

        Amen!

      2. LeAnn Avatar

        I agree, Sarah.

      3. Ben Avatar

        It was essential as she was not doing the job correctly so he needed to take over. What’s the big deal? If it were the other way around, all of you same people would be applauding her.

      4.  Avatar

        seriously!

      5.  Avatar

        you could have minded your own business!

      6.  Avatar

        😂. Aww you poor thing.

    3. G. Saini Avatar

      I’m sure you are BOTH doing the best you can with the knowledge you BOTH have.

    4. MJudy Avatar

      I have had a salt pool for 8 years. If the chlorinator is not working properly it will call for more salt. I have learned the hard way not to believe the machine. After adding bags and bags, like you did I too took a sample to the store only to find out that I had over salted it. Conclusion, when the machine says low salt it usually means that you need a new chlorinator. Over salting is hard to over come. Here is Texas we were in stage 5 drought so I couldnt run up my water bill draining the pool and refilling it. That winter, I hooked up two rain barrels with spigots to the gutters on my house and put every bit of rain water I could in the pool. By the next summer it had deluded it enough for the new chlorinator to read the salt content correctly—but it was still high—-6000. You can just put store bought chlorine in your pool for a while because the chlorinator will not work if the salt is too high.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Thank you for sharing your experience. But I disagree with “check salt” light, meaning you must replace the cell. The check salt salt is one of the more common alerts you’ll get from any salt system. If a new cell was needed every time the check salt light was lit, you’d need a second mortgage.

        The check salt light is usually an indicator that the cell needs to be cleaned or the control needs to be recalibrated. The options are cheap, if not free, routine maintenance.

  59. Steve Avatar

    I shocked my pool and now chlorine level is showing as 0
    Do I now add more chlorine before I swim or will the chlorinator do that? When is it safe to swim?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the chlorine level is zero, it doesn’t sound like your chlorinator is doing its job. It is safe to swim with active chlorine in the pool, below shock levels.

      Provide the full results of your most recent chemistry results. Chlorine is affected by the other chemical components of your water. We need to know the complete picture to try to suss out a solution.

  60. Jacob Avatar

    Have a large inground kidney shaped pool prob 25-30k gal. I opened it up this year and have had the pump running for the week and back washed a few times. I have dumped 20 bags of shock into the pool and it still reads 0 chlorine. I don’t know why this is happening but the color is looking almost clear now. I know I don’t have a solar cover and this week has been 90+ and sunny so that has impacted it. But why would 20 bags of shock read zero when all the other numbers are great. The local pool guy tells me to keep shocking it.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Did you balance the water chemistry before adding all that shock? Chlorine shock is a powerful chemical, but you deaden its effectiveness if you don’t balance the water’s pH, alkalinity, stabilizer (CYA), and calcium hardness. Just regarding CYA, it’s called chlorine sunscreen because it protects chlorine from being burnt off by the sun. If your CYA levels are too low, the sun is burning off chlorine during hot days before it can do anything to affect your pool.

  61. SANDY Avatar

    My Mechanical chlorine feeder is reading a -0.14 What does this mean!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What is the make and model or model number of the unit? We need to know what it is, to understand what type of reading it would output.

  62. Lori Davis Avatar

    8404 Gal. 12×24 Intex vinyl pool: Opened pool, used calcium hypochlorite granular shock, & over a few days worked on balancing the Alkalinity & PH using Muriatic Acid. Chlorine from that shock lasted about 15 hours. Added 1 Clorox Pool & Spa XtraBlue 3” tablet in floater to pool, but still 0 Chlorine registered after 24 hours and beyond.

    7PM last night: Took Chlorine floater out and Shocked pool, 2nd time in a week.
    7AM this morning: Total Chlorine between 4-5 ppm (using my HTH Regent Test Kit). No CYA added at all but I then added Clorox Pool & Spa XtraBlue 3” tablet in floater back into pool, floater window fully open. (I understand the tablets should have stabilizer in them and that is why I hesitate to add CYA). Came back out at 12:30PM to check chlorine level and was shocked to see it back at 0 or not registering. I did a CYA test and it is 0 (now I’ve used up my CYA test, kit only allows for 2 tests).
    Water looks clear and beautiful. We have not swam in it and will not until chlorine is right. Pool is clean, algaecide used for preventative, clarified, and vacuumed.
    Current Readings-
    Alkalinity: 120
    PH: 7.3
    Total Chlorine: 0, not registering
    CYA: 0, not registering
    Hardness: 200
    *My HTH Regent Test Kit does not have a test for Available Chlorine, but I imagine if Total is 0 then Available would be 0.

    I’m not new to pool care but this is my first year trying chlorine tablets. (Have done Bromine, Power Ionizer, and Salt chlorine generator for pool sanitation at different times in the past.)
    I now have a tablet in the floater and 1 in the skimmer in hopes of seeing some yellow show up in my chlorine test.
    Am I doing something wrong, and what should be my next step?
    How long is a reasonable wait to give chlorine tablets time to register?
    When I view the tablets, I see no evidence whatsoever of any dissolving. Maybe I’m being impatient but I’m starting to feel frustrated.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’ll be honest with you, I skipped most of this long post and went straight to your CYA levels. You have 0 CYA which means your Chlorine has 0 protection from being burnt off from the sun. Chlorine is useless when the other water chemistry is useless is completely out of whack.

      Get your CYA levels to 30 ppm by adding a stabilizer. Once the CYA is in place add pool to boost the chlorine and have the chlorine tabs in your choice of the chlorinator. The shock will do most of the heavy lifting while the chlorine tabs are dissolving.

  63. Mags Holland Avatar

    We have a 40000 liter kidney shaped pool (vinyl) with a sand filter that we opened this spring and have not been able to get a chlorine reading for 2 weeks. The weather has been cool (20 degrees Celsius) and rainy. We have brought pool water samples in for testing numerous times and they are baffled but have suggested several actions over the course of 2 weeks, including 1) back washing 2) removing phosphates 3) shocking 4) cleaning filter sand 5) scrubbing the walls and 6) vacuuming. The water is clear but still no chlorine.
    Our latest chemistry readings were:
    free chlorine = .69 ppm
    total Chlorine = 8.11 ppm
    Combined chlorine = 7.42 ppm
    PH = 7.3
    Hardness= 288ppm
    Alkalinity = 125ppm
    Cyanuric acid = 13 ppm
    Copper = 0.1 ppm
    Iron = 0.1 ppm
    phosphate = normal
    Anything you can suggest? We have a lot of company coming in less than a week and really want the pool to be available.
    Thank you for your help.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I just skipped to your CYA levels. That’s why your chlorine is burning off. CYA (stabilizer) prevents your chlorine from being burnt off by UV rays. The stabilizer needs to be in the correct range from chlorine to be able to work effectively and stay active in the water.

      Also, use a non-chlor shock to clear out the chloramines. How To Break Chlorine Lock

  64. Sue G Avatar

    I have a 4500 gallon above ground intex pool just opened. Balanced calcium hardness, alkalinity, and ph and then shocked pool with one gallon of liquid chlorine. Next day chlorine and ph were through the roof. I have it some more time and now 24 hrs after shock I have zero chlorine. All other numbers ok but cya low. Should I add stabilizer first and then shock again?? Thanks!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      We need test result numbers to give accurate advice. Pool chemistry is not an “exact science,” but it is darn near close, so we need accurate info to tell you how much to add.

      Also, you don’t mention adding any stabilizer to maintain the chlorine levels. Chlorine shock does exactly as its name says; it is a sudden burst of chlorine, then dissipates. So if you want chlorine to stay in your pool, you need stabilized chlorine.

    2.  Avatar

      Bring CYA to 30ppm, wait 12 hours then shock with a gallon

  65. Brad 'in need of serious help' Jones Avatar

    Hi there!

    New pool owner. Felt like I’d gotten the hang of things over the last couple of weeks. We had a fair bit of rain the past couple of weeks as well. Last Sunday, I did my weekly backwash/rinse/filter duties on my pump, and tested the chems – my original test strips only did chlorine, PH, alkalinity. PH/Alk. are in good ranges, but chlorine showed 0 (pure white in color). So I bought better strips which measure additional levels (free chlorine, hardness, cya, etc.). ALL levels show as being in the desired range for all areas, except chlorine/free chlorine which still don’t show anything (color doesn’t change). I’ve now shocked with liquid chlorine, added three chlorine pucks to a floater and three to the skimmer basket and still 0. Couple days later, added more liquid shock, more pucks – today, still 0. It’s a 12 x 24 oval pool that averages about 6′ of depth overall.

    Any idea what I should be doing now? And is this ‘normal’? I know we’ve had some rain, but aside from that, it’s been covered (outside of during shocking), it’s vacuumed, the water LOOKS crystal clear, but the chlorine showing 0 is really confusing to me. Am I supposed to just dump two full jugs of the chlorine ‘shock’ in? I don’t get why the levels had all been perfect up until a week ago, when the only differentiator was the rain. Having said that, I had to drain a fair bit of water (maybe an inch or two) as a result of the rain, which was noticeable due to the water line being above the top of the skimmer outlet/flap.

    Just hoping for ‘next steps’.

    Thanks so much – really appreciate the help!
    Brad

    1. Ellen Avatar

      Did anyone respond to this post? I am having the same issue, but not much rain involved. 18×52 and can’t hold chlorine for less than a day. In direct sun for mostof day, crystal clear good looking water. Just did a round of green and clean with 3 lbs chlorine 12hrs apart. 2 days later after last lb and 0 chlorine.

      1.  Avatar

        You need to rise your cya up or get it tested. Most new pool owners think you just add tabs and they will do there job. Every new fill or drain you need to adjust the cya up to 30ppm for the chlorine tabs to hold up. Your burning out because there is probably none to support your tabs. Test your water at a local pool store if you have any questions

  66. Richard Charlap Avatar

    I have a 25,000 gallon inground that has a Frog system chlorinator. Pool itself is 17 years old and we were getting a chlorine lock and a lot of algae with the liner up through two weeks ago. Liner was just replaced with a new one and the water is crystal clear. Zero algae, alkalinity is good while stabilizer is a little low. Problem is: zero free chlorine. Plenty of chlorine, just not “free”. I was told this is a symptom of the Frog system and unless the water goes cloudy, it should be fine…is that true or even partially correct?

  67. Duke benson Avatar

    Why is my pool having a level of zero for chlorine after putting in 8 gallons of chlorine?? We have also tried home kits to see if our testing strips are the problem but they read the same.(0 chlorination level) We have tried shock, chlorine tablets, chlorine gallons but nothing is working, any recommendations.

    1. InyoBlogAdmin Avatar

      What are the results of your most recent water chemistry test?

      Chlorine –
      pH –
      Alkalinity –
      CYA –

      Chlorine cannot sanitize your pool chemistry by itself; it requires pH and alkalinity to be in the optimal range for it to be efficient and effective. If your CYA level is too low, the sun will burn off the chlorine before it can affect your water, and too much CYA will hinder chlorine from doing its job.

      Also, is your water clear, hazy, or green?

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