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5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes

5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes

The pool pump is literally the heart of your pool’s circulation system.  But just like our own hearts, we have a tendency to neglect the health and well-being of the pool pump and then freak out when it’s not working properly.  There are probably dozens of pool pump mistakes out there. . . here are our top 5.

Not Cleaning Pump Basket

Blog Image - Pump Basket Leaves (200 x 200)Let’s start with the very basics.  The pump strainer basket exists to catch debris but it can’t clean itself.  You need to reach in there and get the gunk out.  If you don’t, the pool will have decreased water flow which means reduced filtration and ultimately, the dreaded algae bloom.  The pump basket should be cleared out weekly and even more frequently during the fall and spring when there is more debris in the pool.  Learn more here about how to clean your pump strainer basket.

Running Pump Too Little or Too Much

Some pool owners, desperate to save money on their electric bills, actually cost themselves more in the long run by not runningBlog Image -Pump Timer (200 x 200) the pump long enough.  To maintain water quality and safety, all of the water in your pool should be turned over (meaning filtered) once a day.  Depending on the gallons per minute your pump is moving, this usually takes 8 – 12 hours.  If you don’t give all the water a chance to pass through the filter, you can end up with dirty, cloudy water, algae and the need to spend more on chemicals and maintenance than you would’ve given to your utility company to run the pump a little longer.

On the flip side, there is running the pump too long.  Some believe in keeping it going 24/7 which might be necessary under certain conditions but for most pools is just wasteful overkill.  It drains both energy and money while causing unnecessary strain on the pool pump motor.  Your pump will burn out more quickly and require replacement of parts or the entire unit.  Plus, you are driving your neighbors crazy!  Give them a break from that humming motor and save some money in the process.  For standard residential pools with moderate use, you only need to turn over all the water once in a 24 hour time period.  If you are into the math behind pump run times and savings, read our How to Reduce Your Pool Pump Energy Bill guide.

Sizing Pump Incorrectly

There is a very persistent myth in the pool world that the higher the horsepower, the better.  As a result, it is probably safe to say that the majority of pools have oversized pumps.  We regularly hear from customers with a relatively small pool (~ 10,000 gallons) and a pump that is moving 2 – 3 times the gallons per minute required.  This means unnecessarily high electric bills and a lot of wasted energy.  Too large of a pump can cause poor filter performance and even damage it, if the filter is not also oversized accordingly.  Another possible consequence is pump cavitation in which bubbles form in the water inside the pump and then burst with great force, resulting in damage to the impeller and other internal parts.

Conversely, some pool owners try to save a few bucks by buying a lower horsepower pump that is too small for their pool’s demands.  This is especially true when a spa and other water features, such as deck jets or waterfalls, are tied into the pool pump.  Throw an automatic suction cleaner into the mix and that undersized pump is overloaded.

The bottom line?  Do the math to calculate how many gallons are in your pool (and spa if applicable) and how many gallons per minute are required to filter all of that water in 8 – 12 hours.  Then consult the manufacturer’s pump performance charts to determine what pump actually meets your needs.  Or skip all that, contact us and we’ll do the legwork for you!

Not Priming Pump / Running Dry

Most in-ground pool pumps are self-priming but do not mistakenly think this means your pump can initially prime itself.  “Self-priming” refers to the pump being able to reprime, and this depends upon a proper initial prime and maintenance.  Priming a pump means filling the intake with water.  Then upon start, the pump will push any air out through the discharge.  Read our step-by-step priming guide for all the details.

A loss of prime will cause the pump to run dry which you never want to do.  Keeping an eye on the pool water level is a must – don’t let it drop below the skimmer opening.  If the pump has no water to pull from the skimmer, it will draw air instead and lose prime which leads to running dry.  At the least, this will ruin the motor shaft seal which is what prevents water from getting inside the motor.  If it keeps running dry, the pump heats up and so does the water inside.  Commence melting plastic.  The motor might survive due to the high temp sensor kicking in but the wet end of the pump will be a casualty.  If your pump has run dry and appears to have survived, replace the shaft seal!

Not Changing the Shaft Seal During Motor Replacement

Blog Image - Shaft Seal (200 x 200)I literally grind my teeth over this one.  Replacement pool pump motors are an extremely popular product for us – and with good reason.  In the majority of cases, when a pump fails, the wet end is fine and only the motor needs to be replaced.  Since a pump motor is roughly half the price of a new pump, it makes often sense to keep the existing wet end and just buy a new motor.  Especially true for DIYers who don’t have to pay an installer.

But so many people buy just the motor and neglect the small yet extremely important shaft seal.  This seal keeps water out of the motor (water inside motor + time = failed motor).  Yes, your existing motor will already have a seal on the shaft and it might appear to be in good shape and ok to reuse.  However, shaft seals warp over time.  If you install the old seal on a new motor, there is a good chance it will not mate properly, leading to leakage which voids the warranty on the new motor.

So don’t skip the new shaft seal!  Depending on the pump model, you’re looking at about $15 – $30 to protect a new motor that is worth much more than that.  Invest those few extra bucks – you will not regret it.  While you’re at it, motor replacement is a great opportunity to upgrade other internal parts most likely to fail.  Check for our complete tune up kits, available for many of the most common pool pumps.  These include the shaft seal, along with o-rings, gaskets and lubricant.  For help with replacing the seal, check out our how to guide and video.

author avatar
Matthew Simmons Technical Writer & Pool Product Expert
Swimming pool expert at InyoPools and host of Poolside Chat, brings over a decade of experience in the pool industry.

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314 responses to “5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes”

  1. Lisa Avatar

    Hi,
    I have to replace my hayward above ground pump. It is attached to a HE filter. Do I need to empty the filter out before replacing the pump?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      I’m going to presume you meant DE filter. But either way, no you wouldn’t have to empty the filter to install a new pump. I would use the air relief, to release pressure in the system before removing any piping.

  2. Sharon Avatar

    Help! I added chlorine tablets this morning to my hayward chlorinator and now its leaking. Found the o ring to be loose so got replacement. However the leaking appears to be coming from the retainer nut on top of the lid. Guess i need to replace this too? Is it ok to allow pump to run when its leaking so bad?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      If the part is a thing you can grab locally, then I would suggest just not running the pump until you can pick it up. Not running the pump for a day will not cause too much havoc with your water chemistry.

  3. Alan Davies Avatar

    Matt, what a treasure you and your Company’s site are! Thanks for being there.
    Had a thunderstorm and hard rain and have learned to have the pool running then as it aids in keeping chemistry and circulation correct. Except this time. I came out the next morning and the pool had not only dropped 2-3 inches (vinyl in-ground) but the pump was starving obviosly for water.

    I filled the pool and all seemed fine until a few days later I turned off the pump and when I turned it on I could no longer get the pump to prime though it sounds like it’s spinning/running. I had a local pool company come out and the tech says he thought it was the pump and it was shot. I ordered a new one which will be here in a week but have no way to keep the pool chemistry correct while I wait. How can I keep the pool from going green, I also suspect that a pipe leak may have happened as I found no water leak at the main pump, filter or heater area and when I had refilled it that first time it lost no water until the filtration system was running. Without the filter running water level holds. Have someone coming out for that also to test pressure in pipes, But all of these things take days to happen and the pool is going green quick, any ideas? Can I dissolve shock and just pour into pool?

    Thanks again for being there!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Thanks, Alan!

      We actually have an article that covers this topic, have a look: How to Maintain a Pool When Your Pump Has Died

  4.  Avatar

    Hello….I have an intex pool pump and my son lifted it up so I can cut some grass underneath the tubing….forgot to turn it off while doing that….was only for a minute or so…now the pump will not turn….checked all of the connections for electricity and everything is working fine on that end….when I go press the reset button…it doesn’t seem to be getting any “juice”…I let the pump sit overnight to “cool” off….any suggestions

  5. Melanie Baker Avatar

    I have a 1,000 gph cartridge filter that I unplugged to clean the cartridge. After I put the cartridge back in and the lid back on I plugged the filter in without clearing the air out first and it did not turn on. As soon as I realized it I unplugged it then cleared the air out and plugged it back in ad it still didn’t turn on. Any thoughts or suggestions? It worked fine until I unplugged it to clean the cartridge.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Did you trip a breaker, or did you get motor or cord end wet?

  6. Kelly Avatar

    Hi, how can I tell if my pump is bad? I’m having a terrible time with algae and not being able to clear it up. The return is pumping water to the pool like always. Very strong. All baskets are cleaned out. The gage is reading 15…
    I did notice it spit algae out as soon as I turned it on today? That’s something I haven’t noticed before.
    Please help. :/ Thank you.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      That doesn’t sound like a pump problem, it sounds like a chemical problem. Read this guide, and watch the video for help: How to Clean a Green Pool?

  7. None Avatar

    We just put up a pool we just bought off someone and I need sand for the sand filter and got to get a few new pieces for the sand filter can I still hook up the pump and not the sand filter to run it for a day to just circulate the water and shock it.

  8. Mike Avatar

    Hello there. I’m getting a higher than normal pressure reading (25 psi) with a motor that’s in need of a new shaft seal. It’s leaking a lot. Would the shaft seal problem be the cause of the high pressure? Or is it something else? Thanks.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      A leaky shaft seal is not going to cause a build of pressure. It is more likely that your filter needs a cleaning.

      But that shaft seal needs replacing as quick as possible to prevent further damage to your motor.

  9. Veronica Avatar

    I have a new multi port valve on a filter that we purchased less than two years ago. Water is leaking out the backwash hose while in filter mode. I have checked the spider gasket and it looks perfectly fine. I even switched the top of the multi port valve with the new system to try to help with the water flowing. It helped for a short while, but then started to leak out again. The strange part is that it starts off dry, starts to leak out slowly, and then is about halfway out the hose. It is draining my pool repeatedly and is very frustrating! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  10. Arthur Avatar

    I have an inground pool using a Hayward DE 4820 Pro Grid filter and a Polaris Caretaker 99 infloor cleaner. In-between backwashes, as the filter pressure increases near to when a backwash would occur, I am getting a considerable amount of larger debris passing through the filter and completely clogging up the intake screen of the 5 port valve. This stops the cleaning process and I have to clean the screen frequently until I backwash. This only seems to happen when the filter pressure approaches 30psi, which is the point where I would normally backwash the system. I do not have any noticeable DE in the pool and the water is normally beautifully clear.

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