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5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes

5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes

The pool pump is literally the heart of your pool’s circulation system.  But just like our own hearts, we have a tendency to neglect the health and well-being of the pool pump and then freak out when it’s not working properly.  There are probably dozens of pool pump mistakes out there. . . here are our top 5.

Not Cleaning Pump Basket

Blog Image - Pump Basket Leaves (200 x 200)Let’s start with the very basics.  The pump strainer basket exists to catch debris but it can’t clean itself.  You need to reach in there and get the gunk out.  If you don’t, the pool will have decreased water flow which means reduced filtration and ultimately, the dreaded algae bloom.  The pump basket should be cleared out weekly and even more frequently during the fall and spring when there is more debris in the pool.  Learn more here about how to clean your pump strainer basket.

Running Pump Too Little or Too Much

Some pool owners, desperate to save money on their electric bills, actually cost themselves more in the long run by not runningBlog Image -Pump Timer (200 x 200) the pump long enough.  To maintain water quality and safety, all of the water in your pool should be turned over (meaning filtered) once a day.  Depending on the gallons per minute your pump is moving, this usually takes 8 – 12 hours.  If you don’t give all the water a chance to pass through the filter, you can end up with dirty, cloudy water, algae and the need to spend more on chemicals and maintenance than you would’ve given to your utility company to run the pump a little longer.

On the flip side, there is running the pump too long.  Some believe in keeping it going 24/7 which might be necessary under certain conditions but for most pools is just wasteful overkill.  It drains both energy and money while causing unnecessary strain on the pool pump motor.  Your pump will burn out more quickly and require replacement of parts or the entire unit.  Plus, you are driving your neighbors crazy!  Give them a break from that humming motor and save some money in the process.  For standard residential pools with moderate use, you only need to turn over all the water once in a 24 hour time period.  If you are into the math behind pump run times and savings, read our How to Reduce Your Pool Pump Energy Bill guide.

Sizing Pump Incorrectly

There is a very persistent myth in the pool world that the higher the horsepower, the better.  As a result, it is probably safe to say that the majority of pools have oversized pumps.  We regularly hear from customers with a relatively small pool (~ 10,000 gallons) and a pump that is moving 2 – 3 times the gallons per minute required.  This means unnecessarily high electric bills and a lot of wasted energy.  Too large of a pump can cause poor filter performance and even damage it, if the filter is not also oversized accordingly.  Another possible consequence is pump cavitation in which bubbles form in the water inside the pump and then burst with great force, resulting in damage to the impeller and other internal parts.

Conversely, some pool owners try to save a few bucks by buying a lower horsepower pump that is too small for their pool’s demands.  This is especially true when a spa and other water features, such as deck jets or waterfalls, are tied into the pool pump.  Throw an automatic suction cleaner into the mix and that undersized pump is overloaded.

The bottom line?  Do the math to calculate how many gallons are in your pool (and spa if applicable) and how many gallons per minute are required to filter all of that water in 8 – 12 hours.  Then consult the manufacturer’s pump performance charts to determine what pump actually meets your needs.  Or skip all that, contact us and we’ll do the legwork for you!

Not Priming Pump / Running Dry

Most in-ground pool pumps are self-priming but do not mistakenly think this means your pump can initially prime itself.  “Self-priming” refers to the pump being able to reprime, and this depends upon a proper initial prime and maintenance.  Priming a pump means filling the intake with water.  Then upon start, the pump will push any air out through the discharge.  Read our step-by-step priming guide for all the details.

A loss of prime will cause the pump to run dry which you never want to do.  Keeping an eye on the pool water level is a must – don’t let it drop below the skimmer opening.  If the pump has no water to pull from the skimmer, it will draw air instead and lose prime which leads to running dry.  At the least, this will ruin the motor shaft seal which is what prevents water from getting inside the motor.  If it keeps running dry, the pump heats up and so does the water inside.  Commence melting plastic.  The motor might survive due to the high temp sensor kicking in but the wet end of the pump will be a casualty.  If your pump has run dry and appears to have survived, replace the shaft seal!

Not Changing the Shaft Seal During Motor Replacement

Blog Image - Shaft Seal (200 x 200)I literally grind my teeth over this one.  Replacement pool pump motors are an extremely popular product for us – and with good reason.  In the majority of cases, when a pump fails, the wet end is fine and only the motor needs to be replaced.  Since a pump motor is roughly half the price of a new pump, it makes often sense to keep the existing wet end and just buy a new motor.  Especially true for DIYers who don’t have to pay an installer.

But so many people buy just the motor and neglect the small yet extremely important shaft seal.  This seal keeps water out of the motor (water inside motor + time = failed motor).  Yes, your existing motor will already have a seal on the shaft and it might appear to be in good shape and ok to reuse.  However, shaft seals warp over time.  If you install the old seal on a new motor, there is a good chance it will not mate properly, leading to leakage which voids the warranty on the new motor.

So don’t skip the new shaft seal!  Depending on the pump model, you’re looking at about $15 – $30 to protect a new motor that is worth much more than that.  Invest those few extra bucks – you will not regret it.  While you’re at it, motor replacement is a great opportunity to upgrade other internal parts most likely to fail.  Check for our complete tune up kits, available for many of the most common pool pumps.  These include the shaft seal, along with o-rings, gaskets and lubricant.  For help with replacing the seal, check out our how to guide and video.

author avatar
Matthew Simmons Technical Writer & Pool Product Expert
Swimming pool expert at InyoPools and host of Poolside Chat, brings over a decade of experience in the pool industry.

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314 responses to “5 Biggest Pool Pump Mistakes”

  1. Fran Avatar

    My pump is running, sounds louder than usual, and bounces from 0-10 psi. I am new to pools. Just bought a house with an inground pool. Im clueless! Will running the pump with low pressure cause the pump motor to go out? And, why is my pressure low? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

    1. Jeb Avatar

      Try cleaning the pool filter

  2. Rob Avatar

    My filter wasn’t working well (I accidentally filled water above skimmer) for a few days. Now that the water level has lowered and the pump is working well again, do I need to let it run longer than usual to make up for the missed days or is it sufficient to run it as normal (does all water once per day). This is an above ground, 10,600 L pool.

    Thanks.

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Test the water, the results of the test will let you know what needs to be added (if anything.)

  3. Lesley Avatar

    Sorry Raypack….

  4. Lesley Avatar

    Hi there I have an inground pool with a Hayward pump and daypack heater. I had the pump to half skimmer and half kreepy it didn’t feel like there was any suction but I left it for. 8 hours and when I went to turn to full skimmer I noticed that the pipe coming from the sand filter to heater was very swollen. And the water in the pump basket was steaming. I switched everything off. Is there a blockage or should I be back washing more?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      The steaming water and swollen pipe could be caused by low water flow. A pool heater requires a minimum flow rate (depending on model) to keep it from overheating and eventually breaking down. The bulging pipe may be caused by the superheated water deforming the pipe; the steam is likely another symptom of the problem. The heater hi-limit should have stopped the heater from reaching these dangerous levels.

      First I would find the reason for the low flow whether it be an air leak or a blockage and then I would get a professional to inspect your heater.

  5. Danny Gomes Avatar

    On a separate issue of recent I have encountered an infestation of tiny micro tubular speciem. After shocking pool three times I still have these but it has lessened. How long before you can swim and how do you prevent?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      These wiggly tubes, are they maggots?

  6. Danny Gomes Avatar

    Hi!
    I am always struggleing with a lot of bugs, pollen and millions of gnats in my pool.
    Three or four times a day we are skimming and cleaning out the catch basin but no matter what the pool has stuff floating around.

    What can I do to minimize this?!

    Thanks!

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      Are you dosing your pool with algaecide currently? I have heard bugs are attracted to its scent.

  7. Tim[Spain] Avatar

    i have a waterco multicyclone plus 12 filtration system.it is attached to a 1/2 horse power pump. all works well , but as the filter starts to do its job the power of the pump does not seem to be enough to keep forcing water through the filter and requires me to strip down the filter, clean it and reassemble to get it working efficiently again. i think the filter should be able to run longer between cleaning. the working pressure on the filter rises from 0 to just under 1bar[11psi] when i have to clean it. the pool is small, only 27m3[7000 gl]. do you think i need a bigger[stronger] pump for the filter.

  8. Gloria Avatar

    One of the guys cut a pigtail to a Skil saw which tripped a breaker we know that they are not on the same circuit breaker, would that cause the pump to stop working??

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      That shouldn’t stop the pump to my knowledge, but you should probably have an electrician come out and take a look at it firsthand.

  9. Sarah Avatar

    I have an inground Hayward saltwater pool. On 2 occ I have received a LO reading on the heater and the pump sounds like it is grinding. I then backwash the pool to restore the flow, re-prime and that seems to set it to flow correctly. I just backwashed the yesterday and I had to backwash again today because I was getting a LO reading again. Is there something else going on. We just got a major thunderstorm and I’m wondering if the water level is too high there for interfering with the flow.

    Also on another note, I’m noticing some creases on the bottom of my pool in the liner as well as what seems to be Airpark it’s in some spots on the wall.do you have any idea what may be causing this. My pool is only two years old.

    1. Sarah Avatar

      Sorry my auto type doesn’t hear well. I am seeing air pockets along some spots on the walls of the pool behind the liner. Does this mean I have water coming in behind.

      1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

        Sarah,

        First question, is this a DE or a sand filter? If this is a sand filter, you may have to change the sand. Backwashing the filter helps rid your sand of excessive dirt and debris but eventually your sand gets so saturated it won’t matter what you do the water can’t get through it fast enough.

        Air or water pockets behind the liner could is a potentially bad sign, you will need to find out where that leak is coming from. Have you had excessive or flooding recently? Also what is being behind your liner: steel walls, fiberglass shell or other?

  10. Kerri T. Avatar

    I have an inground pool. One afternoon, I had turned off the filters to open the chamber to clean the 4 cartridges. After cleaning, i forgot to place the cartridges and replace the lid of the chamber that evening. The next morning, being on a timer, the filters ran for several hours. My pool water level dropped by 2 feet. I ordered 6,000 gallons of water to increase level so filters can run. The motor runs but now i’ve noticed that it runs louder than prior to this event. Did i cause harm to the motor?

    1. Matthew Simmons Avatar

      What kind of sound is the motor making? If it is a screeching or grinding sound, it would be the bearings, which may have been caused by some of that 6,000 gallons getting into the motor.

      1. Jeb Avatar

        Chlorinated water that is…

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